Throttle/Governor Linkage

ol' stonebreaker said:
As I said when it wont start hot have a known good plug handy to sheck ignition spark, if so remove the plug and check it for spark. If it has spark it's not the problem. Time is of the essence for this test 'cause when it cools enough it will spark again.
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Ok. I will check that. However, that raises a question in my mind...... If it is running fine, then dies and won't restart, would the one that it has been running on be a "known good plug"? If I have a "known good plug handy", that plug will be cool and I should expect to see a satisfactory spark. But, once it heats up the condition may return.
Sorry if I am being a little dense about this issue....

Dave
 
Ok, so as promised.......

IMG_1160 - The relationship of the Choke/governor rods
IMG_1163 - The overall view of the connections
 

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If thats the governor spring I see behind the throttle arm you might try moving it down a couple of notches. I'd like to see a pic of the top of the old carb for comparison to the new carb.
Dave27944 said:
..... If it is running fine, then dies and won't restart,

Dave
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Is it dieing on it's own or are you stopping it? Important to know if it relates to my problem because I would stop it and minutes later my problem would start with trying to restart it.
 
Dave27944 said:
Dougt: Yea, that makes sense. The lever IS adjustable on the shaft. I have been on Youtube watching some videos on the governor operation/adjustment and I understand the mechanical operation of the governor. Everything I watched seemed to suggest that the governor shaft, where it penetrates the casing, should be turned counter-clockwise as viewed from the side, to come in contact with the governor spindle inside. Does that sound correct?


. He also said that one contributing factor could be the ignition coil.
Any thoughts?


Thanks,

Dave
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I'm not familiar enough with Techumseh to answer that. To get it against the gov turn it the same direction as it needs to move to go WOT. Hold the shaft there and set the lever so the throttle is full open and tighten the bolt. You should be good.

I have had coils cause a no restart when hot and run again when they cool off. I would just use a #2 phillips screwdriver in the end of the wire and hold it close to the base of the plug or head bolt. I use 5X the plug gap outside the cylinder as a rule of thumb to be able to fire under compression.
 
ol' stonebreaker said:
If thats the governor spring I see behind the throttle arm you might try moving it down a couple of notches. I'd like to see a pic of the top of the old carb for comparison to the new carb.


Is it dieing on it's own or are you stopping it? Important to know if it relates to my problem because I would stop it and minutes later my problem would start with trying to restart it.
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Hi. Sorry for the delayed response.
The problem would arise if I hit a particularly dense area of grass(read weeds) and the engine dies before I can get control of it. Then, if I try to restart it would be sluggish to the point where it just wouldn't start.
Anyway, here is the carb comparison pic:
 

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Dougt said:
I'm not familiar enough with Techumseh to answer that. To get it against the gov turn it the same direction as it needs to move to go WOT. Hold the shaft there and set the lever so the throttle is full open and tighten the bolt. You should be good.

I have had coils cause a no restart when hot and run again when they cool off. I would just use a #2 phillips screwdriver in the end of the wire and hold it close to the base of the plug or head bolt. I use 5X the plug gap outside the cylinder as a rule of thumb to be able to fire under compression.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Dougt, sorry for the delayed response. So, if I understand correctly, if my spark plug gap is 0.030"(which is what I have it adjusted to), then I should expect to see a spark at approximately 0.150" or about an 1/8". That would indicate that my coil strength is acceptable? Am I understanding that right? Are there high output/capacity coils out there for lawnmower engines?
 
Hello to all. Here are some close up views of the governor linkage. It looks to me like it is firmly attached to the governor spindle going inside the engine with a pinch bolt. However, there looks like a "Knuckle" attached to enable adjustment as well as different "notches" that the spring can be adjusted to. So is one adjustment to get me "in the ballpark" and the other for fine tuning? Would anyone know what the recommended Max RPM should be?
 

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Dave27944 said:
Hi. Sorry for the delayed response.
The problem would arise if I hit a particularly dense area of grass(read weeds) and the engine dies before I can get control of it. Then, if I try to restart it would be sluggish to the point where it just wouldn't start.
Anyway, here is the carb comparison pic:
Click to expand...
The two carb linkages look identical so I don't see a problem there. I hope I'm not wrong in saying I think the new carb will fix the dieing problem.
 
ol' stonebreaker said:
The two carb linkages look identical so I don't see a problem there. I hope I'm not wrong in saying I think the new carb will fix the dieing problem.
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In this photo, it is right behind the governor rod. I don't know if you can blow it up.......
I will start with the governor spring 2 notches down and see what I get.
I have also purchased an RPM monitor so I can watch what happens as I make adjustments.
I am going out to hook up the battery and turn the key!!
I will let everyone know the outcome.
 

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I have a swisher tow behind finish mower that I put a brand new 8hp Briggs on that I had here, older version of the 8hp Briggs that I took off that had a multi pii connecting rod. I actually had a brand new 1982 8 hp Briggs in the attic, it's mounted, has oil in it but has never had gas in it from new. I have to figure out a throttle control for it. .. need to do so soon as the season is here and I could use some room and cash back. . Story for later.
(I just wish Glens surplus wasn't 2 states away as they have the biggest assortment of various throttle controls if any place I've ever been) it's actually not all that far from member Doug T...... (I've been there too) I camp out there nearby every year in August.
 
Ok, so it turns over, was backfiring alot. Took off the valve cover, checked the clearances. The exhaust valve was way out(about 0.008). Made adjustments, tried it again. Less backfiring but won't start.

Anybody?
 
It's sounding like maybe a compresssion test is in order. If someone here knows the compression test procedure for this engine I hope mthey speak up. If not mount a google search with the make and model #. If it has a compression release then you need to know how to do it.
That screw in the last pic is to adjust the length of the throttle cable if needed to make the choke function.
 
Dave27944 said:
Thanks, Dougt, sorry for the delayed response. So, if I understand correctly, if my spark plug gap is 0.030"(which is what I have it adjusted to), then I should expect to see a spark at approximately 0.150" or about an 1/8". That would indicate that my coil strength is acceptable? Am I understanding that right? Are there high output/capacity coils out there for lawnmower engines?
Click to expand...
Yes, an 1/8 to 3/16 would indicate that the spark would be sufficient to fire under compression. A GOOD normal coil should produce that. No need for any high output.
 
Ok!! It's running. Took off the NEW Coil, put the old one back on, adjusted the gap to 0.012". It started. Ran better but died after a few seconds. During this upkeep/maintenance period, I installed a cut off valve and a filter in the gas supply line. I seemed to me that it was being starved for gas. I removed the inline filter. It started and ran better but wouldn't stay running. I cleaned up the old carburetor, removed the NEW carb and reinstalled the old one. It started, stayed running long enough for me to make adjustments to the idle. Does anyone know what the idle speed
should be? Anyway, it ran pretty good. No backfire on startup. I couldn't get it to run at speed, I am guessing because I don't have a load on the engine without the deck on. So, after all this, the only NEW component I have on the engine is the throttle control linkage and the cut out valve. What do you think the odds are that a NEW Coil AND and NEW Carb are both bad!?!
Now, I will install the deck and see where I am......
I want to thank everyone that guided me, advised me, and gave me things to think about during this procedure. I am sure I am not done yet, but I am making progress!!

Dave
 
Did you buy a NOS tecumseh carburetor or a Chinese carburetor? I’ve had good luck with the Chinese carburetors but I try to get NOS when I can.

A lot of people say they have gotten bad Chinese carburetors right out of the box. So chances are good that you got a bad one.
 
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