I think you need to look inside the gas tank. You may have a lot crud in the tank partially blocking flow out of the tank. Also leave the gas cap loose or off in case it isn't venting.
Hi, Toomanytoys84 and thanks for the response.
I got it from Jack's. Probably a Chinese.......
I got it from Jack's. Probably a Chinese.......
Today's update:
I put a meter on the new coil and it checked out ok. I reinstalled it and the engine started and ran pretty good! I had a RPM meter on it and turned down the idle till the engine started to "cough". That was about 1900 RPM. Turned it back until about 2100 when it smoothed out and sounded good. I ran it up and the governor was kicking in at about 2900. I adjusted the governor spring a notch at a time, until it was at the top notch. That brought the RPM's up to about 3250. So, the last measurements were 2100/3200 once it was warmed up and settled out. If I want to bring it up anymore, I will have to adjust the governor arm away from WOT but I think I will install the deck and see how the engine reacts with a load on it. Also, I am going to take apart the new carb and clean it, blow out the passages as it has been suggested that perhaps, during the manufacturing process, some metal had been clogged in the carb. Once I clean it up, I will install it and see how it reacts.
Any suggestions or comments would be welcomed about this plan.
Thanks,
Dave
I put a meter on the new coil and it checked out ok. I reinstalled it and the engine started and ran pretty good! I had a RPM meter on it and turned down the idle till the engine started to "cough". That was about 1900 RPM. Turned it back until about 2100 when it smoothed out and sounded good. I ran it up and the governor was kicking in at about 2900. I adjusted the governor spring a notch at a time, until it was at the top notch. That brought the RPM's up to about 3250. So, the last measurements were 2100/3200 once it was warmed up and settled out. If I want to bring it up anymore, I will have to adjust the governor arm away from WOT but I think I will install the deck and see how the engine reacts with a load on it. Also, I am going to take apart the new carb and clean it, blow out the passages as it has been suggested that perhaps, during the manufacturing process, some metal had been clogged in the carb. Once I clean it up, I will install it and see how it reacts.
Any suggestions or comments would be welcomed about this plan.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks Propane1 for the response. I'll see how the new carb works out. Yea, it would be good to have a "bulkhead spare" and, your'e right that it is a sad state of affairs when we have to work on new equipment to get it to function as designed. I'm sure we all have tales of that situation.
Dave
If it only goes down to 1900 it sounds like there might be an intake air leak.
Ok. Where would I check for that. Because when I try to idle it down, it starts to cough and run rough. What should the Idle speed be? Also, I made my first cut on the weeds today. Seemed to run ok, slow to respond when hitting the heavy grass. Also, when making a turn on a hill, it seems to slip on the drive then when I straighten it out it picks up again. What would cause that scenario?
Idle it down to just short of running rough, Then spray a small amount of ether(starting fluid) on the connection between the carb and intake manifold being careful not to let the spray enter the carb intake. If there's a connection between the intake manifold and the engine spray a little there too. If the engine speeds up a little then you have an intake air leak, most probably a gasket or o-ring.
Ok. Sounds logical. I just did replace the gasket on the outlet of the carb to the intake manifold, and I also used gray Permatex RTV on the gasket so I am fairly confident about that joint but I will check it anyway and the joint of the intake to the head. Any concerns about the ether flashing on a hot engine? Where might I find an o-ring that may be faulty?
The only other possibility I could think of would be a problem with the valves seating completely. It IS a 2008(Well the mower is, just guessing the engine is original equipment). What do you think?
The only other possibility I could think of would be a problem with the valves seating completely. It IS a 2008(Well the mower is, just guessing the engine is original equipment). What do you think?
Anyone had any experience with the slipping of the power? On straight, level ground it does ok but it doesn't seem to have the speed it used to, even in 6th gear. It has a hard time climbing a hill and if I am making a turn AND going uphill it slips pretty badly until I get around the turn and get back on level ground.
Any thoughts on this condition would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Any thoughts on this condition would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Something I wanted to point out for anyone that might be going through this or replacing the linkage or rods. I used a new choke rod that I bought. When I was trying to work through the starting/running issue I had the air cleaner off. Yesterday, when I put everything back together and tried to start it and it wouldn't fire. You don't want to hear the cuss words.....
What I found out was that when I installed the air cleaner body on the carb studs, the new choke rod was hitting it and wouldn't let the engine choke. I replaced the rod with the old one, which had a bend towards the engine, away from the air cleaner body. That solved that problem.
Lesson learned.
What I found out was that when I installed the air cleaner body on the carb studs, the new choke rod was hitting it and wouldn't let the engine choke. I replaced the rod with the old one, which had a bend towards the engine, away from the air cleaner body. That solved that problem.
Lesson learned.