Voltage rectifier getting hot

Rustyoldjunk

Rustologist/Punishment Glutton
Senior Member
Member
So the rectifier gets way to hot if I run the lights on this Jacobsen 53500.
If I don't run the lights its fine but with the lights on within 2 or 3 minutes the plug gets hot enough to start melting.
The engine is a Kohler K532 cast iron twin.
Any ideas ?
 

Attachments

  • 20201118_152911.jpg
    20201118_152911.jpg
    196.7 KB · Views: 11
  • 20201118_162440.jpg
    20201118_162440.jpg
    254 KB · Views: 11
Make sure the connectors inside the plug fit snugly on the tabs. Loose connections can create heat.
Thats the first thing I did when I saw the situation Kenny.
Good snug fit.
With my hand on it the connect runs cool.
Within a minute with the lights on the plug gets too hot to touch.
Turn them off it goes back to cool.
The gauge shows fine with the lights on.
 
Have you successfully used the lights in the past? If yes then look for shorts. If not check that you have the appropriate bulbs. First thing I would do is remove the bulbs, turn the lights on and see if there is any current draw.
Don
 
Have you successfully used the lights in the past? If yes then look for shorts. If not check that you have the appropriate bulbs. First thing I would do is remove the bulbs, turn the lights on and see if there is any current draw.
Don
My first thought was somebody had replaced the headlights with a higher draw light but these appear original.
 
Not sure how yours are wired, Sounds like excessive current being drawn through the diode. Some have a split stater that feeds the diode for battery charging and separate coil for A/C for the lights.
Others have a single stater and a back to back diode assembly that provides a separate diode for the lights.
And others have the lights wires direct to the battery.

Can you estimate your current draw and replace the diode with one of a higher rating?
Optionally, I replaced my power hungry lights with round LED fog lights and gave the power hungry lights to Kenny.

Just some thoughts.
 
Does this have the generator? Here's a SM for that engine. Generator may be in need of new brushes!
 

Attachments

  • K482-662 Service.pdf
    2 MB · Views: 1
Manual shows both types, Generator and Alternator. And there is a 15A and 30A regulator.
Fig. 7.14 shows a diode and alternator setup. It looks to be a bridge type rectifier. Not sure where the lights are attached. Shouldn't make a difference except for the current draw.
Fig. 7.12 states in the fine print "Turn on lights if 60 watt or more" I did an Ohm's law calculation (60W and 13.8Volts = 4.35A). This will vary if the voltage is more than 13.8V. A weak battery may draw more current also.
Thanks Kenny, I needed something different to read.
 
Manual shows both types, Generator and Alternator. And there is a 15A and 30A regulator.
Fig. 7.14 shows a diode and alternator setup. It looks to be a bridge type rectifier. Not sure where the lights are attached. Shouldn't make a difference except for the current draw.
Fig. 7.12 states in the fine print "Turn on lights if 60 watt or more" I did an Ohm's law calculation (60W and 13.8Volts = 4.35A). This will vary if the voltage is more than 13.8V. A weak battery may draw more current also.
Thanks Kenny, I needed something different to read.
This is still factory wired best I can tell.
Not sure how the lights are wired.
They will turn on if you flip the key to on with the tractor not running,but with the key in the off position they won't turn on.
The last battery I had in it was good but thats when I first found the problem.
With the tractor running in the dark with the hood up I saw sparks.
I needed that battery in another tractor.
So I put a new battery in this tractor and still have the same issue.
 
With the tractor running in the dark with the hood up I saw sparks. That's not good. Any guesses where the sparks are coming from?

They will turn on if you flip the key to on with the tractor not running, They are wired to the battery + through the key switch. I think the sparks are the issue.
 
With the tractor running in the dark with the hood up I saw sparks. That's not good. Any guesses where the sparks are coming from?

They will turn on if you flip the key to on with the tractor not running, They are wired to the battery + through the key switch. I think the sparks are the issue.
Larry it was just the plug had gotten so hot it had melted a little of it and a prong was getting red hot.
Guess I should have clarified.
Nothing appears to be grounding.
 
Maybe new terminal connectors will help. These are what I use.


 
Maybe new terminal connectors will help. These are what I use.


I've got new terminals on the shelf Larry but I don't think thats the issue.
One of the outta prongs coming out of the rectifier is what is getting hot.
 
Do you have another rectifier? Maybe it's bad.

I just looked at the attached parts manual. Page 35 shows the stator(s) and rectifier(s) possibly used in this engine. Look that over to see what you have. Also, post the engine type code to help us verify what you have. Could be this has the 30 Amp stator and someone has put the 15 rectifier on it.
 

Attachments

  • K482_18HP_&_K532_20HP_TP-2419.pdf
    3 MB · Views: 1
I don't have the lights working on any of the tractors or mowers for that very reason. More trouble than they are worth and if I can't get it done in daylight it won't get done till tomorrow, if ever.
 
Back
Top