Welding rod flux & moisture.

I'm sure they weren't that expensive as it was a gift. The second replaced the first after several years. They worked fine in temps. above 32 F. Below that it was iffy and I didn't like being flashed. The other thing was if the eye was blocked by anything like a frame or pipe you were in trouble. Just my preference is the old style helmet. Bet it was a couple years before I quit trying to lower the helmet before striking an arc. :rolleyes: I've worn different ones and my vision is clearer through the lift type helmets. I even had prescription glasses made just for welding and it didn't help.
 
This will make some of you shake your heads but it has worked for many years with good success. If I suspect that the 7018 that I'm using is damp I will put the rod in the stinger and then push the other end onto the metal and let it heat up. It will start to smoke but don't let it burn the flux. Then pull it off and take it out of the stinger and let it cool until it's warm. This will also provide more time for the rod to dry. Will do this with several rods so stopping in the middle of a bead isn't necessary.
Usually this is done at the same amperage setting that is going to be used to weld with.
I have not tried having the welds x-rayed but have seen no porosities in the welds.


Doesn't make me shake my head, have done it many times when welding with 7018 in the rain. Celluloid fluxes like 6011, etc aren't bothered by moisture.
Mike
 
I started out with an old Pipe liner helmet 40 years ago similar to the one in the photo. Mine even has paint on it in about the same place.
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Then I went to the first style Jackson battery operated Auto darkening helmet like the one pictured here in the early 2000's. One of my guys dropped a piece of steel on it and broke the auto darkening module so bad that it had 3 different places to look through it with black spots in between.
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I now am using a Miller auto darkening hood with the solar panels. It nice not to have to change out batteries and it works very well even when I'm in a dark environment for for several hrs or days. The UV from welding keeps it charged and it holds a charge a long time when I'm not using it. I've had this one for 6 or 7 years now.
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The biggest thing is to maintain the lenses by cleaning carefully not to scratch them. I use a micro-vac on my mine then I gently clean with a really soft glasses cleaning cloth. Both the old Jackson and the Miller will hold a cheater lense that I used to use. Now that I'm wearing trifocals I don't us one.
 
I have various welding helmets Speedglas auto variable shade, Praxair 12 shade and couple manual helmets. I did see a old welding helmet with a lever inside hood that set below users chin so user could lift the lens only just by opening his mouth. I thought very slick. I only use my autos anymore

My boy got his F3 welding ticket last week, few more tickets to go to get the Red Seal, not that he wants to make a living welding, just makes him more versatile in his field. He uses a $10.00 manual helmet, its the lens that are critical.
 
That's a good point. Some of the solar operated units have battery that is not replaceable although I have seen guys wire in a external battery. I tried and failed, it was a challenge opening the solar lens.:rolleyes:

I had a HF AD hood for about a year before the speedglas. The batt went TU in it so I figured it was time to spend a little more $$.
Mike
 
Yesterday we were in Sioux Falls and I happened into the Harbor Freight store. Sure beats going to the fabric store with the wife :)
Anyway I did something I didn't think I would do again. I purchased a flash helmet. This time I bought the most expensive one they had. It's their Vulcan series and after making a few welds with it I have to say I'm impressed. The lense is extremely clear when not welding and the visibility when it is darkened is outstanding. The headset is probably the most comfortable I have ever worn. We'll see how it holds up but so far it is a big :thumbs:
 
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