Well. Case 224&446

Hi Noel I've read on a couple of Case sites that Case had a special belt width an some claim you have to have a Case belt, I never used a snowcaster with a Case tractor but did mount on on one of the PK's and used it I did not have a Case belt just used a std A belt and had now problems with it staying on, been racking my brain trying to figure your problem just can't seem to come up with anything other than the belt
 
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Gary I found a belt sizing chart for the case throwers and it says A belt which equals a 1/2” belt. Any belt guides on your snocaster. If so, where are they placed.

Noel
 

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Hi Noel, my fat fingers? yes it is an A belt, no belt guides I do have a Kevlar belt installed , here's picture of the spring etc on the PK , I'm sure I read on the Case site that the belt was 7/16" wide vs 1/2"
 

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Guess there won’t be any Case snocaster testing for a bit, snow all melted away. Could be some, a lot or no snow in the days before Xmas. Long range forecast is showing some snow.
I may go and get belts this week.
Any way, have a good Sunday members.

Noel
 

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Does this belt dome off the front of the engine, down around the idler pulleys and to the thrower? Never been around a PK so not sure. CC run the way I described and any belt other than a cub cadet will not stay on. Belt will not take the 90° twist in that short of distance. The CC thrower belt is straight down then shaft drive. Just trying to picture in my mind what you have there Noel.
 
Here’s a picture of the belt routing Roger. At the engine where the clutch is, it turns clockwise. So there is a 90 degree twist from the engine to the spring idler pulley in the belt. Then from the spring idler pulley to the auger shaft pulley, it’s straight. From the auger shaft pulley to the fixed pulley, it’s straight. From the fixed pulley back to the engine there is a 90 degree twist in the belt. Now the fixed pulley and the spring idler pulley, they are apart by about 3” to 4 “, so the belt does not run straight to and from the auger shaft pulley.
Hopefully I’ve said all that right.

Noel
 

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Well Gary. Hard to say what’s right. In the things I’ve seen about belt width, I’ve seen mentioned, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8”. Soooo, hard to say what’s right. I’m gunna go with the chart I posted. A belt, equals 1/2”.

Noel
Yea Noel as I said I use the 1/2" belt and it works for me I all way wonder about things like that when Mfg come with say 7/16 vs 1/2" I figure it so you pay 2 to 3 times for the belt
 
About the same set up as Cub Cadet uses for their deck drive. On idler pulley is spring loaded on a coil spring on the shaft and the other pulley is adjustable. Both pulleys have the belt running narrow side in the grove. Uses the "B" - 5/8" belt. The 1/4 turn from pulley to pulley is what cause the issue on CC. Regular belts just will not last near as long as the Cub Cadet belts do, even if both are Kevlar. Thanks for the drawings.
 
So. I bought a Kevlar blue 1/2”X 81” belt. Put it on. Had to use one of my old longer springs, because the one I made to case spec would not fit. Old belt is 82 1/4 “ long and is about an 1/8” or more deeper, top of belt through to bottom, than the new one. Any way, had a little snow yesterday, so I tried it and the belt stayed on. Was out with the thrower running for about 15 minutes. In snow, not in snow and thrower up and down a bunch of times. So it maybe fixed.

Noel
 

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Ok. New belt on Case 224. And the belt stays on, so far. Was out for about 15 minutes. Did the same routine as I did with the Case 446. But today’s snow was wet. Was 2C, so above freezing. Snow was sticking in chute. So I’ll have to clear coat the auger and chute. That type of snow very hard to throw, was pushing the snow instead of drawing it in. So the new belt is 1/2” X 75”. The old belt is 5/8 X 77”. And like the 446 belt, the thickness from top to bottom of the new/old belt was about 1/8” or more in difference, with the new one less thick.
Still need to cut up tire tubes, to tension the chains yet. Chains seem to work fine.

Noel
 

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You would have better results with genuine Ingersoll belt and spring, I've been all through this, a few years ago I finally got fed up and bought a genuine Ingersoll belt, spring and bushings for the pivot where the caster frame meets it's mount on the tractor. Made a big difference, no more belt issues.
 
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