Working on parting out the Ariens GT's

MNGB

MNGB

Tractorologist
Member
Started on parting out the 2 Ariens GT's I picked up this summer, its going slow but am making progress and I'm pleased with a couple of things I've found, both tractors still have the hydraulic lift cylindersand I was just checking last week for cylinders, and both had the very same safety switch that is used on the PK. I spent a couple of evenings searching the web for this switch and found nothing, well the switchs were in a protected area on the Ariens and when removed they both worked and when checking them over I found that they are Indak switch's did another search and found them they are also used on the Case GT's so I have a PN also now

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MNGB said:
Started on parting out the 2 Ariens GT's I picked up this summer, its going slow but am making progress and I'm pleased with a couple of things I've found, both tractors still have the hydraulic lift cylindersand I was just checking last week for cylinders, and both had the very same safety switch that is used on the PK. I spent a couple of evenings searching the web for this switch and found nothing, well the switchs were in a protected area on the Ariens and when removed they both worked and when checking them over I found that they are Indak switch's did another search and found them they are also used on the Case GT's so I have a PN also now

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In my limited experience with GT's, this is the first time I've ever seen little drum brakes out on the hubs! Were they independent of each other, Gary?

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
In my limited experience with GT's, this is the first time I've ever seen little drum brakes out on the hubs! Were they independent of each other, Gary?

DAC
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No I found that different but maybe Ariens wanted to only use 1 pedal, these tractors are really quality built machines and heavy duty, all had fornt and aft rockshafts front one to raise and lower a dozer/plow blade and a snowblower, the rear one for the 3 pt hitch the hydros have hydraulic lifts with a complicated lever mech. to operate either the front or one.
 
I bought an old Ariens at an auction once for $5. Rough shape. Had the straight frame rails and made a great little 4 wheel yard wagon. Put a flat bed on it with removable ends about 30" high. Made a good brush/limb hauler for around the acreage. Parked out front this fall with pumpkins and other fall crop decorations on it..
 
Today I got the one Ariens stripped down to where I want it just the Hydro and differential in the frame and the hydro control, I'll start on the other one next week its going to be more work as it has more things still in place like most of the engine hood rear wheels etc. To see what my next project idea is see the new post

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I see a couple of parts I could use if shipping didnt kill the idea of being "worth it". I have 4 of those machines, and on the fence on 2 of them as to whether I'm gonna fix one, fix both or do as you did (part out) one or both of them..... If I part one out I'll have what I need for the other....
The problem is, that puts me at this point is that I dont have the space for all here, and the property owner where I store my crap is getting goofy on me again... about issues that have nothing to do with me having stuff there, (don't have room here to discuss), but things that 1) I have nothing to do with/ 2) can't do anything about/ and 3) am sick n tired of hearing about Meaning that it's probably gettin time to start thinning my herd down to what I have space for right here. just so I don't have to hear about things....
 
MNGB said:
Yes and I one to go would like to get the steering wheel off but so far it resisting
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Is that a splined steering shaft, Gary? Looks like some kind of "thru bolt" under the wheel. Sounds like some guys have good luck with bearing splitters but have not done it myself. I built a cobbled puller many years ago when I had to pull the steering wheel off the MF12G to weld the spokes back on to the hub. It took some persuasion but got it off. That was an indoor stored tractor. I used it again in the MF1450. It was a bigger challenge since that tractor had been sitting outside with no cap. It worked but I boogered up the threads on the end of the steering shaft. Used an automotive puller with angle iron under the steering wheel.

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Is that a Ross steering box on those?

DAC
 
Last steering wheel I could not get off I took to the welding shop. No box on the end, just the wheel so he heated the shaft up good, let it cool, placed the shaft loose in a vise vertical and leaned on the shaft with his air hammer. Poked it right out. Don't think that would do the steering box any good though.
 
Hey Doug yes its a Ross and right now I have it standing vertical with ATF & Acetone mix soaking I have my bearing splitter on it and tried with my snap on puller didn't budge so I'm soaking it. I want to get the wheel off and try your straightening trick see if I can get it as good as you did.
I've thought about heat Roger but for now I don't want to destroy the wheel
 
What worked for me was to put a vise grip about 6" below the steering wheel to act as a heat sink. Heated the shaft up good and let it cool. He said this will break the rust bond most of the time. Good luck.
 
MNGB said:
Hey Doug yes its a Ross and right now I have it standing vertical with ATF & Acetone mix soaking I have my bearing splitter on it and tried with my snap on puller didn't budge so I'm soaking it. I want to get the wheel off and try your straightening trick see if I can get it as good as you did.
I've thought about heat Roger but for now I don't want to destroy the wheel
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That steering wheel straightener worked way better than I expected! Hope it will work as well for you, Gary! Good idea to hang onto those Ross steering gears for sure!

DAC
 
Have been working on disassembling the second GT making progress but it been beating up my hands I don't like that. Got a couple of good switch's form it the rear PTO switch was like new and is the same switch as used on the Power Kings and its NLA for the PK's, been trying to figure out how to get the rear PTO removed haven't had any luck yet. This tractor has a Kohler K341 16 hp engine in it well most of the engine the carb fuel pump and ignition coil are gone as is the cylinder head. it was stuck with the piston down so I poured it half full of ATF then added some acetone let it sit for a couple of weeks it finally all went down tried turning the crank still wouldn't turn put a 3"X3"wood block in the hole gave it a couple of good hits with the 2 lb ball peen hammer it it was loose.
 
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