I hate philips screws
- Thread starter adamjd200
- Start date
A pic or two would help. Drill out the heads, remove sensor and use the visegrips on them. A lot of times the screwdriver or Philips bit is part of the problem.
Mike
Mike
Thought of that, thought of cutting slotts with the dremmel, and use a flat head.
Sometimes welding a nut to something stripped works well, or a washer first, then the nut; of course with a likely plastic sensor welding might not work, unless you don’t mind melting the sensor. I’ve also had decent luck putting a slot in stripped or broken fasteners.
What brand truck?
02 f250, 5.4, 2 valve.
Throttle body is out of the truck, don't want to pound on it more than necessary.
Not worried about old sensor, it's getting replaced, don't want to add heat if I can avoid it.
This is the kind of job where an impact screw driver is worth its weight in gold. About $9 at Harbor Freight.
Impact Screwdriver set
Other places have them too.
Impact Screwdriver set
Other places have them too.
I have one, wouldn't help, nothing left for bit to grab onto, and I'm not gonna wack the side of an aluminum throttle body that would cost $300+ to replace.
It does work better to start with the impact driver before the screws are chewed up.
They can be safely used with delicate aluminum parts. I've done it hundreds, maybe even thousands, of times on aluminum motorcycle carburetors. The trick is to use a sharp rap rather than pounding on it.
One of the reasons an impact driver tends to work well on Phillips screws is the included bits (at least in the ones I've used) weren't actually Phillips but were JIS. The Phillips screw/driver combination was designed to limit the amount of torque that could be applied. The driver actually climbs out of the screw head as torque is applied. My understanding is this was done to prevent over torquing on an assembly line.
The JIS is very similar to Phillips except the screw/driver have a different shape at the tip so they don't push apart with torque. A JIS driver works fine in a Phillips screw and is less likely to climb out of the socket. The reverse isn't true. Phillips drivers perform poorly in a JIS screw.
JIS screws typically have a punch mark on the head to indicate they're not Phillips.
The only place I've seen JIS screwdrivers is McMaster-Carr. I suspect they can also be had from the big name too trucks. But as I said, the bits with the impact drivers I've owned were actually JIS.
I wonder if Ford used a JIS screw on that throttle body. That would be a bit surprising because it's typically the Japanese (Japanese Industrial Standard) that use them. U.S. products tend to use Torx heads.
They can be safely used with delicate aluminum parts. I've done it hundreds, maybe even thousands, of times on aluminum motorcycle carburetors. The trick is to use a sharp rap rather than pounding on it.
One of the reasons an impact driver tends to work well on Phillips screws is the included bits (at least in the ones I've used) weren't actually Phillips but were JIS. The Phillips screw/driver combination was designed to limit the amount of torque that could be applied. The driver actually climbs out of the screw head as torque is applied. My understanding is this was done to prevent over torquing on an assembly line.
The JIS is very similar to Phillips except the screw/driver have a different shape at the tip so they don't push apart with torque. A JIS driver works fine in a Phillips screw and is less likely to climb out of the socket. The reverse isn't true. Phillips drivers perform poorly in a JIS screw.
JIS screws typically have a punch mark on the head to indicate they're not Phillips.
The only place I've seen JIS screwdrivers is McMaster-Carr. I suspect they can also be had from the big name too trucks. But as I said, the bits with the impact drivers I've owned were actually JIS.
I wonder if Ford used a JIS screw on that throttle body. That would be a bit surprising because it's typically the Japanese (Japanese Industrial Standard) that use them. U.S. products tend to use Torx heads.
JiS screw drivers sets on amazon for 17.99. I bought a set awhile ago.
Philips use should be discontinued all over the world and replaced with torx.
Mike
Mike
I agree!
Screws were messed up before I even started, should've been replaced last time the sensor was off, I will be replacing with Allen screws.It does work better to start with the impact driver before the screws are chewed up.
They can be safely used with delicate aluminum parts. I've done it hundreds, maybe even thousands, of times on aluminum motorcycle carburetors. The trick is to use a sharp rap rather than pounding on it.
One of the reasons an impact driver tends to work well on Phillips screws is the included bits (at least in the ones I've used) weren't actually Phillips but were JIS. The Phillips screw/driver combination was designed to limit the amount of torque that could be applied. The driver actually climbs out of the screw head as torque is applied. My understanding is this was done to prevent over torquing on an assembly line.
The JIS is very similar to Phillips except the screw/driver have a different shape at the tip so they don't push apart with torque. A JIS driver works fine in a Phillips screw and is less likely to climb out of the socket. The reverse isn't true. Phillips drivers perform poorly in a JIS screw.
JIS screws typically have a punch mark on the head to indicate they're not Phillips.
The only place I've seen JIS screwdrivers is McMaster-Carr. I suspect they can also be had from the big name too trucks. But as I said, the bits with the impact drivers I've owned were actually JIS.
I wonder if Ford used a JIS screw on that throttle body. That would be a bit surprising because it's typically the Japanese (Japanese Industrial Standard) that use them. U.S. products tend to use Torx heads.