48" blade for the JD 316
- Thread starter KennyP
- Start date
I got out the 4 quick connect couplers I took off the 140 parts tractor to see if they were any good. Apparently they leaked as the PO had filled them full of red gasket sealer. They are junk now!
I did spray a coat of Rust Reformer on the area of the a-frame I welded yesterday. No pic of that.
I did spray a coat of Rust Reformer on the area of the a-frame I welded yesterday. No pic of that.
I bet they dont leak anymore
Another interesting thread I have missed lately! Since I have recently been re-designing the home made hydraulic blade on my MF8E there is plenty of stuff to learn here!
Do the hydraulics allow for blade float, Kenny or did I miss something reading along here? I put up with a rigid setup for a quarter of a century on my MF8E before I hated it bad enough to change it up. Geometry was messed up for angling the blade too. Those changes made such a huge difference in the quality of plowing and back dragging I can do now! Will you also have to get off the tractor to angle and lock the blade? That is my next hurdle that will require some miraculous engineering I think. I'd sure like to be able to do it all from the tractor seat someday!
DAC
Do the hydraulics allow for blade float, Kenny or did I miss something reading along here? I put up with a rigid setup for a quarter of a century on my MF8E before I hated it bad enough to change it up. Geometry was messed up for angling the blade too. Those changes made such a huge difference in the quality of plowing and back dragging I can do now! Will you also have to get off the tractor to angle and lock the blade? That is my next hurdle that will require some miraculous engineering I think. I'd sure like to be able to do it all from the tractor seat someday!
DAC
There is no hydraulic 'float' in the installed valve, so not yet. But I hope to 'add' on the 3-spool valve from a 140 that does have a 'float' spool. That will make the tractor an 'H-4'. I'd just swap valves, but the steering column is in the way of the levers/linkages.
The angle adjustment for now will be manual.
Today I decided to redo the skid shoes for the blade. I noticed the plastic was cracking on the existing shoes, so I made a new set.
I took the plastic part off and made some marks for the new shoes to be welded onto.
I bought some strap, but it's 3/16" instead of 1/4". Made some marks to bend the ends up, went with a 30 degree angle.
I wanted a thicker base, so a cut 2 more pieces to lay between the bends and welded them together.
Then I welded that to the 'adjuster'. This has 3/4" X 10 tpi all thread. That lets me figure how much I want the blade up. One revolution down is 0.100". So 2.5 revs is a 1/4".
Should work pretty good. Plus I can turn these back straight forward when the blade is angled.
I took the plastic part off and made some marks for the new shoes to be welded onto.
I bought some strap, but it's 3/16" instead of 1/4". Made some marks to bend the ends up, went with a 30 degree angle.
I wanted a thicker base, so a cut 2 more pieces to lay between the bends and welded them together.
Then I welded that to the 'adjuster'. This has 3/4" X 10 tpi all thread. That lets me figure how much I want the blade up. One revolution down is 0.100". So 2.5 revs is a 1/4".
Should work pretty good. Plus I can turn these back straight forward when the blade is angled.
I have the 'new shoes' ready to bolt on. Since I used 3/4" X 10 thread for the post, you can 'screw' the foot down to the ground level, then 2-1/2 turns is 1/4". 5 full turns = 1/2". Makes it simple to adjust! And, if you angle the blade, just loosen the lock nut and turn the 'shoe' back straight!
I am wondering why you didn't weld the second plate of the shoes under the bent one? If the shoe wears out it would be easier to remove the worn plate under and weld another one. Anyway my consideration is probably excessive as those shoes seem quite heavy duty in the first place 
I'll never wear them out!I am wondering why you didn't weld the second plate of the shoes under the bent one? If the shoe wears out it would be easier to remove the worn plate under and weld another one. Anyway my consideration is probably excessive as those shoes seem quite heavy duty in the first place
From where?
Surplus Center!
Surplus Center
Warehouse distributor for many top name manufacturers. Parker Hydraulics, Hypro Pumps, Prince Hydraulics. Direct from the factory. Surplus equipment. We buy large quantities of manufacturer's surplus or excess stock.
www.surpluscenter.com
Went to TSC to find some fittings and they had 1 new connector. Got it attached in the hard spot, I'll find another soon. Used an old one for the other side, it leaks some. Attached everything and checked the lift. I have -1" to +8" with the tractor on 1" boards. That'll work for me! Took it all apart to weld the cylinder mount, then gave it a coat of Rust Reformer for now.
