We have another one of these balanced head mowers that I believe is a model #120. It had a usable belt that turns out to be the same part number. I got it swapped out so this will let me test things out before buying a new belt.
Workin' on the Old Tractors
- Thread starter cjet69
- Start date
You will be cutting brush in no time with the new purchase, CJet!
DAC
DAC
DAC
Can't see any pits from here, CJet, they look great!
DAC
Won't be able to see the pits when they are covered in mud or cow dung either.
They will be plenty good for the tractor they are going on.Attachments
Just think of those rust pits like dimples on golf balls.
Makes them go faster and farther...!
I'm not a fan at all for trike tractors. Yet this one has some charm.Won't be able to see the pits when they are covered in mud or cow dung either.
Pits give it character of a era when machines were the real work horses of the industrial age. Take a machine today, it will not pit. Nope, instead it will crack and fall off in 10 years as plastic panels will not last!
I'm already getting requests from owners of recent Yanmars with cracked hoods. LS, Kioti, New Holland, Deere, and many others are having similar problems due to inferior parts made of plastic.
In 2 weeks, our all new 3D printer arrives. Guess what the first parts will be. Yep, tractor parts.
My 1981 Yanmar has a few that are aged plastic parts. There are not many on it, yet they have lasted 40 years.
Now, if carbon fiber printers came down in price . . .
I would rather have a mower like this for the ditches around here vs. driving the tractor in the ditch to mow. The county mows with a similar size machine and takes even steeper inclines, not for me. I just barely feel OK doing mine. And mine is steeper than my manual says to use the tractor in.
So yes, a 3-point sickle mower would be ideal to use. I like the fact yours has the mechanical parts inside a housing.
Looked over the old tubes for these wheels and found spots on both that are splitting. Bought a pair of new tubes yesterday and mounted the tires up today. Loaded them in the Gator to transport to the farm where the Farmall C is located. Not sure if I will get them bolted on the tractor today but by tomorrow for sure. Need to move the tractor so I can get a load of bedding for the cows.
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I would be interested in seeing what you go through to mount tires on rims, CJet! Do you use another tractor to mount the wheel/tire to the tractor? Looks like some heavy work for one guy.
DAC
These larger tires are usually pretty easy to mount. I use some tire mounting compound which helps the bead slide on. The tire/wheel weight isn't to bad on these. Just use a bottle jack to lift the tractor up to where I can get one bolt at the top and then keep jacking until the bottom slides in place. Then just wiggle things around until all of the bolts are in and tighten it down. I have the tire back on the tractor but forgot my camera so I will get some pics tomorrow. Here is a pic of the mounting compound.
It does seem like the smaller the tire, the bigger the fight, but these tractor tires are something I've ever got to try. I would have thought the sidewalls are pretty stiff. Wonder if that is the same blackjack that makes roofing tar?
DAC
Started a repair on a front wheel for the 1942 John Deere BO. It was thin enough that I decided to cut out the rusted through area and found a donor wheel to cut patch pieces out of. Got the pieces cut out of both wheels and just need to make a final trim to fit before welding.
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Its close and I can always tweak it some to make it work if needed.
It would be interesting to see how they do it. There are a few places where you can send your wheels in and they will put new rims on them but it'll cost ya. This wheel is whats called a cut-off where they took a full steel wheel, cut the rim off, and welded on a rubber tire rim. Our 1937 John Deere BO has a set of round spoke wheel that are the original rubber style. I need to repair a front wheel for that tractor also.
Finished fitting and welded the patch in the wheel. The donor wheel shape has a pretty close match to the original wheel so it wasn't to much work making it fit close enough. Need to check the rest of the wheel for thin spots that need weld but after that It will just need a good sandblasting.
