1947 Farmall Cub

alleyyooper said:
How is the clutch, is it releaseing properly? Some times a tractor sets for a long time and the clutch doesn't seem to release right.
I've always used some thing to hold the clutch pedal down for a fed days so they don't go to sticking.

:D Al
Click to expand...
I think you right but the more I use it the more it gets better.
 
After talking to a few people on the farmall group I found that my disc is missing the bars and that why it won't lift high enough.

What mine looks like
43952537_2030894733634187_6118866888148647936_n.jpg

What it should looks like

28aharrow001002.jpg
 
My hydraulics is making a awful soon I check the fluid and bleed the system but still a high pitch noise. Maybe it has to do with the fluid leaks I don't know I hope it ain't the pump going out.
 
I noticed all the gaskets come in a kit I wonder if it would be better to rebuild the pump
 
I decided to get together all the parts and go thru the whole tractor I need it to be reliable because it will be my main tractor for my garden and pulling broke down mowers around.
 
bbuckler said:
I think I got issues with the clutch I grinds going into gear sometimes
Click to expand...
I don't know that you can do anything about that. My '48 does also - can shift between gears but going from neutral the transmission guts are spinning and grind.

Supposedly replacement pilot bearings in the crankshafts tend to shrink under size, then drive the transmission shaft along even with the clutch depressed. The answer is to ream it to proper size after installation.

Still, I wonder. That's a long input shaft and unless everything is perfectly straight and aligned it's going to drag a bit. Plus any residual drag in the clutch. It doesn't take a lot of torque to keep the input gears moving once spinning in neutral.
 
That makes be feel a little better I guess I just need to fix the hydraulic leak and check the float level to see if it level since it wet around the gaskets and runs a little rich.
 
Might need l rewired probably go thru and replace all the old electrical stuff
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20181231_120809774.jpg
    IMG_20181231_120809774.jpg
    192.7 KB · Views: 9
For a 12v conversion if I got a mag and no coil is the generator and the voltage regulator the only thing I need to change ?
 
bbuckler said:
For a 12v conversion if I got a mag and no coil is the generator and the voltage regulator the only thing I need to change ?
Click to expand...

There is a coil, it's in the squarish box on top of the magneto with the high tension lead going to the center terminal on the distributor cap. The coil is powered by the magneto, not the tractor electrical system. So whether 6V or 12V doesn't impact the ignition system. In fact, in 1947 the electric starting and charging system was an option. If you had a thin wallet you could buy the tractor without and hand crank it.

The stock On/Off button shuts down the engine by shorting the magneto to ground. I do not know if you'll need an on/off switch for the alternator to keep it from discharging the battery when the tractor isn't running. My guess is a 1 wire alternator wouldn't require a switch.
 
MiCarl said:
There is a coil, it's in the squarish box on top of the magneto with the high tension lead going to the center terminal on the distributor cap. The coil is powered by the magneto, not the tractor electrical system. So whether 6V or 12V doesn't impact the ignition system. In fact, in 1947 the electric starting and charging system was an option. If you had a thin wallet you could buy the tractor without and hand crank it.

The stock On/Off button shuts down the engine by shorting the magneto to ground. I do not know if you'll need an on/off switch for the alternator to keep it from discharging the battery when the tractor isn't running. My guess is a 1 wire alternator wouldn't require a switch.
Click to expand...
I did see in one video they put a shutoff on the battery
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top