Bought my first Predator engine.....

TAHOE

Tractorologist
Member
and it came with a Sears rotospader 3pt tiller. A buddy of mine had this and decided to sell it, motor only had 45 min run time. Original Tecumseh would have been nice, but not complaining, easy to start and runs good. 0I took it for a test run in garden, does a nice job, but it needs side shields and maybe rubber flaps on the back, throws the dirt pretty far. Also want to change rear tires to skinner ones, these leave wide path. I paid 175 for it, pretty decent IMO, most on CL go for 300 or higher. May tear it down and paint this summer.

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Little different than my Sears Tiller. Are the outside tiller ends original? Looks like an added feature. I would leave those wide tires on there. They are running over fresh tilled ground. The narrower the tire the deeper they tread and more compaction. Mine has the Sears branded B&S 5 hp engine.
 
If you attached a chain with a turnbuckle between the tiller frame and the top link anchor point to make the depth adjustable do you think it would work with the wheels removed ?
Mike
 
I have an old walk behind tiller. All it has is two tires in front and an adjustable metal skid in back.
 
Little different than my Sears Tiller. Are the outside tiller ends original? Looks like an added feature. I would leave those wide tires on there. They are running over fresh tilled ground. The narrower the tire the deeper they tread and more compaction. Mine has the Sears branded B&S 5 hp engine.

Not sure what you mean about the tiller ends. I'm not sure what is original on this.

Wide tires..... I tilled the garden with it today, when i raise tires to dig deep, they hit both the rear fender and belt cover and then drag.
If I keep wide tires, they need to be smaller diameter.
 
If you attached a chain with a turnbuckle between the tiller frame and the top link anchor point to make the depth adjustable do you think it would work with the wheels removed ?
Mike

It already has a short sears top link which tilts the front of tiller up or down to adjust depth. I had it adjusted all the way in, i was tilling about 5" deep or so. The mount for the center tine shaft was digging into the outside edge so I think I'm at maximum depth. I need to do some research on proper adjustment.
With tires lifted all the way up and top link cranked in, tires were barely touching ground. When I had it adjusted all the way down, tiller was pretty much all on the 3 pt arms.
 
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I have one of those with an 8hp Tecumseh. Good running motor but I did raise the air filter assembly up as it was getting plugged all the time. For years I thought these tow behind tillers looked like a joke but then acquired one with a tractor. Boy was I wrong. Didn't take me long to sell the other tractor and tiller and I have never regretted it.
Your right about end plates. Doesn't cover the plants when tilling anymore. Thinking the back apron was made from light weight conveyor belting.
The more you use that tiller the more your going to like it. Especially if you have an electric or hydraulic lift.
 
Are the outside tiller ends original?

By this I am referring to the ends of the tiller tine shaft. Looks like there is a flat iron that come across the front of the shield and down to the ends of the tine shaft to support the outside end. I need this on mine as it would save a lot of side pressure on the gear case seals.
 
I have an old International 1050 GT that needs a motor. Thinking real hard about putting a Predator in it, just to get it up and running again. 6 hp is a little small for a snow thrower and running a hydro too.
 
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