That was my biggest concern and I’m happy with it. I’ve seen some of these spit out long strands of stuff without chewing it up.
Kemp K6CH Wood Chipper
- Thread starter Sawdust
- Start date
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On my MTD chipper if you have to push the wood into the chipper blade it needs sharpened. When my blade is sharp I have to hold back on the wood to keep it from bogging the engine down too much as it will keep pulling it in.
Yes, you could mount the large wheels on a longer axle and move them to a mid point with a long tongue to make maneuvering more easy.
BTW: what is the pivoting handle on the side for?
Yes, you could mount the large wheels on a longer axle and move them to a mid point with a long tongue to make maneuvering more easy.
BTW: what is the pivoting handle on the side for?
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It’s a foot lever to dump that end of the cage in case of a clog. It self feeds pretty good a couple times putting some branches in the shredder it wanted to jerk them in but I held them back slightly. It has adjustable doors on the back to allow the mulch to come out sooner if you want larger pieces. If you keep them closed like I did it keeps mulching until it falls out the bottom of the cage in smaller pieces.
I think so too Doug I don’t think I’ll be burning much anymore.
First of all welcome aboard glad to have you. My belt was fine. I just removed it while working on the engine. Do you have your old one to size a new one up.
I finally ordered my chipper blade a few days ago. I thought about making one out of a piece of leaf spring. I found this from Chalmers Industry for $37. shipped to my door so much less trouble and time. I was going to take my drum out this week to get this ready for some much needed use but can’t for a few days. My son started remodeling his bathroom and needed my help this week. Maybe this weekend I’ll get to work on it.
Saturday I spent the day taking this apart in the shop while watching some movies. I decided to take the whole top section off to make it easier to assess the needed repairs on the cutters.
The drum has six bars made up of angle iron with seven cutters on each. I’m missing four cutters, I have two corners broke off of the bar, and three bars that are bent. The cutters are 1” wide, 5/16” thick, and approximately 3 5/16 long following the twisted area.
I’m not a metal smith by far but I thought these cutters would be hardened but I don’t think they are. I slid a file across one and it cut into it right away. Flattening out the angle iron bars would be easy to fix. I have a nice fab and weld shop near me that has treated me real good when I need to buy metal. I’m going to take one of these cutters and see if that’s something they would do. If not I’ll see if I can get the metal and wing it myself.
I’m thinking just cut the stock longer than needed then heat and twist it then cut for length once I get the twist like the original. It looks like a real tight twist to copy. On the corners I’m thinking of welding a section to fit the missing area. I’m not sure how that would hold up. I could cut the old bar off then weld another new one on. I already have that size angle iron. It’s welded everywhere on the drum where the bar is attached. It would take a lot if weld cutting to get that off. Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed.
The drum has six bars made up of angle iron with seven cutters on each. I’m missing four cutters, I have two corners broke off of the bar, and three bars that are bent. The cutters are 1” wide, 5/16” thick, and approximately 3 5/16 long following the twisted area.
I’m not a metal smith by far but I thought these cutters would be hardened but I don’t think they are. I slid a file across one and it cut into it right away. Flattening out the angle iron bars would be easy to fix. I have a nice fab and weld shop near me that has treated me real good when I need to buy metal. I’m going to take one of these cutters and see if that’s something they would do. If not I’ll see if I can get the metal and wing it myself.
I’m thinking just cut the stock longer than needed then heat and twist it then cut for length once I get the twist like the original. It looks like a real tight twist to copy. On the corners I’m thinking of welding a section to fit the missing area. I’m not sure how that would hold up. I could cut the old bar off then weld another new one on. I already have that size angle iron. It’s welded everywhere on the drum where the bar is attached. It would take a lot if weld cutting to get that off. Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed.
Once you get the first cutter twisted and cut to proper length the rest should be easy. It doesn't look like you'll have to make a lot of new cutters. Proper placement in the vise will be critical so the twisted part doesn't seat on the bar and I'll suggest a large heating/welding tip, not a rosebud so the heat can only be applied where needed. If the heat isn't spread enough the metal might tear when twisting it. I'd just replace the damaged bars as it'll be easy to clamp/tack them together to mark centers using a drill bit the size of the hole, then drill a small a pilot hole and then drill to size. Make carefull measurements for placement on the drum as it will be critical for balance. HTH.
I was impressed as how well it was balanced and spun easy with no side to side play without the cutters on it. Before I took the cutters off the same bar ended up on the bottom when it stopped spinning. Obviously with the three missing cutters and the two missing bar corners it was way out of balance.
In my years in the metal trade I know I have twisted 1/4 flat bar tighter than that without heat. Doing so may work harden and so make the cutters stronger. Simply cut a slot or hole in a piece of 1/2 or heavier plate to fit the flat bar tightly. Attach that to a piece of heavy pipe for a handle. Bolts could work but a weld would be easier. And use that for a bending wrench. The possibilities and variations are endless. A quick google search brought up this.
If you use this angle iron idea and it proves to week you could weld a piece of steel across the top of the angle to greatly improve the strength.
It just matters what tools and materials you have available.
The corners on the bars could easily be replaced by a competent welder. For balance just spin it and see where it stops. If it spins freely enough it will always stop heavy side down. It is then a simple mater to remove a little metal on the heavy side or add a small weld on the light side to accomplish balance. I would spin it several times to be sure where it stopped then hot glue a nut or washer to the light side to see how that changed the balance point.
Don
It just matters what tools and materials you have available.
The corners on the bars could easily be replaced by a competent welder. For balance just spin it and see where it stops. If it spins freely enough it will always stop heavy side down. It is then a simple mater to remove a little metal on the heavy side or add a small weld on the light side to accomplish balance. I would spin it several times to be sure where it stopped then hot glue a nut or washer to the light side to see how that changed the balance point.
Don
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I made chipper knives for my Amerind Mckissik chipper earlier this summer then got distracted and never tried them. I don,t know what the leaf spring I used came from but it filed easy which surprised me. New knives for 37$ Seems interesting. The shredder knives on mine are flail and could stand to be replaced but the price from the manufacturer is high. I may fabricate some of those also.
Don
Don
When the flail blades get rounded on the leading edge you can turn them around to make the square corner lead.
Yep but the ends of my flails are about the radius of a quarter full half circle. My chipper has a lot of miles on it. I may grind a step or notch and see how that works. Could also build up the ends with weld then grind square
Don
Yup same way wrought iron rails are hand made.
Thanks everyone I appreciate all the great ideas and info. It’s funny I was laying in the bed the other night I was thinking about fabricating a wrench to do the twisting for the cutters. My plan was to cut the stock slightly longer than needed, put the one inch flat spot that’s needed in a vise then twisting on the other end. I’m expecting it to take a few times to get it right.
I don’t think these cutters have ever been reversed and actually the used edges aren’t that bad. There was a rock inside the tumbler area as big as a softball is what I think caused the damage.
Today I cut the three bars off of the drum. I tried taking the pulley off to have better access on that side to use a right angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel. I was able to pull it about 3/8” from the shaft but it stopped shy of the end. I stopped in fear of breaking the pulley. I ended up cutting what I could with the cutting wheel then used my Sawzall to finish the cuts. It all worked out well. Next I’ll clean up the drum, cut my three bars that are 1 1/4” x 1/4” angle iron, and drill all the holes. It might be the weekend before I get to all that. Thanks again everyone.
I don’t think these cutters have ever been reversed and actually the used edges aren’t that bad. There was a rock inside the tumbler area as big as a softball is what I think caused the damage.
Today I cut the three bars off of the drum. I tried taking the pulley off to have better access on that side to use a right angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel. I was able to pull it about 3/8” from the shaft but it stopped shy of the end. I stopped in fear of breaking the pulley. I ended up cutting what I could with the cutting wheel then used my Sawzall to finish the cuts. It all worked out well. Next I’ll clean up the drum, cut my three bars that are 1 1/4” x 1/4” angle iron, and drill all the holes. It might be the weekend before I get to all that. Thanks again everyone.
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I’m not trying to be a smart a$$ but can’t really tell from the pictures, did you take the two bolts out of the taper lock where they were and put them into the other two holes? That will pop the pull off of the taper and the whole thing SHOULD come off pretty easily.
No problem Jason, yes I did that but it still wouldn’t come off. I just put the two bolts back in slightly to show I had them out. I’m soaking it in ATFluid/Acetone for the night.