MF 1450

Well guys the engine came out and it is a sheared flywheel key, but the crank and flywheel are badly galled up. I was looking at it this afternoon and reached in to rotate the engine, grabbing the electric pto hub. Out of the corner of my eye I noticed the flywheel didn't turn with it!

Getting the boat anchor out of the tractor.
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Moved the tractor and stated taking it apart.
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I should have taken a pic here. May have been my fault. The flywheel bolt broke loose quite easily. Must not have torqued it right when I overhauled the engine.
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Got the blower housing off.
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Pulling the woodruff key. Can see the crank is junk.
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Flywheel isn't as bad but still junk. I had already knocked out what was left of the key.
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Looks like the tractor will get shoved outside for the winter. Too many expenses right now to buy a crank, flywheel and gasket set.

I dig having a 3 point tractor but I didn't even get to build all the attachments I wanted for it and there probably isn't a lot of value even parting it out. Will sleep on it for awhile!

DAC
 
Ya, I’d get a key for it and put it back together. And I’d put some Goop on all the surfaces. And on the treads of the bolt, and a little around the bolt head once torqued right. Does the same job as a nylock nut. I know what your all gunna say, but that’s what I’d do.
 
Ya, I’d get a key for it and put it back together. And I’d put some Goop on all the surfaces. And on the treads of the bolt, and a little around the bolt head once torqued right. Does the same job as a nylock nut. I know what your all gunna say, but that’s what I’d do.
You don't know what I'm gonna say, Noel---LOL! I have been considering that, just using JB weld or Loctite and throwing it all back together. Guess I really don't have anything to lose. Just as well cobble it back together, I suppose.

DAC
 
With nothing to loose I'd take a file to the crank and knock off the high spots. Get a new key and some of this
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"Product Description
These retaining compounds have a thick consistency for filling gaps in loose-fitting metal parts. They are often used to repair a press fit assembly or reinforce the seating of mechanical components, avoiding the need to remachine parts.
and reassemble everything."

I've used this stuff in electric motor housings that have spun bearings and it has worked flawlessly. I agree though, Put it back together and run it.
 
Did I miss something about why the loss of compression occurred?
Yes, gotta find out that before worries about the crank. But that Loctite 660 will work! If engine can be revived, after tightening flywheel following the 660, put a pipe that will clear the nut and give it a whack with good size hammer. You'll find after that the nut will tighten further. Do this till nut stops tightening easier. I just hope this engine can be saved!
 
Since the engine has ACR, don’t you have to somehow bypass that to do a compression test? Just putting a tester on and cranking it would show no or low compression, wouldn’t it?
Generally you will get about 60 PSI on a good engine with ACR, I'm with Chris try the loctite 660, I'll say the reason for no compression was because when cranking only the flywheel was turning and not the crankshaft
 
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