"New" trailer!

Smallest brake system I've personally seen was with 12" rims.
You're probably going to have to change the rear axle to get brakes on it and 4 tires. Still a cheap trailer.
Those springs look like the ones on my 4x6. They were rated at 1000#.
If you're going to.put cars on it, best know for sure. Spring's the only thing keeping the wheels where they belong.
 
MFDAC said:
Good advice, Adam, thank-you. Don't know the actual empty weight but the title says 700#---LOL! Think that's a little light!. Won't be any problem getting the title transfer here though. No inspection.

DAC
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That trailer weighs every bit of 1000lb, here it wouldn't be legal without breaks.
 
4getgto said:
Your wife's uncle was (is )a pretty good fabricator. I'm impressed. Very well thought out...
Bill
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Thanks Bill, he is still building stuff at 81. His biggest drawback is that he gets his feelings hurt if he has to spend any money---LOL! His Dad was a skilled fabricator too.

Propane1 said:
Looks great Doug. Brakes are a good thing to have. My trailer has brakes on both axles. Even then it’s hard to get stopped when someone jumps in front of you quick. Have to have brakes on all axles here. Won’t pass inspection with out it. Maybe you can put brake system on the axles.
Noel
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Yeah I know brakes are a good idea,Noel, actually more like a have-to, but this is what I have for now.

MH81 said:
Smallest brake system I've personally seen was with 12" rims.
You're probably going to have to change the rear axle to get brakes on it and 4 tires. Still a cheap trailer.
Those springs look like the ones on my 4x6. They were rated at 1000#.
If you're going to.put cars on it, best know for sure. Spring's the only thing keeping the wheels where they belong.
Click to expand...
No plans for cars. Just pieces now and then. I'm still thinking a ton at the most.

adamjd200 said:
That trailer weighs every bit of 1000lb, here it wouldn't be legal without breaks.
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adamjd200 said:
As an example my little 4x8 weighed all but 350, per the weight slip from a local feed mill.
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Yeah you are probably in the ballpark at 1000#, Adam.

Thanks for the comments guys!

DAC
 
If you decide to put brakes on it some day I would suggest the rear axle. That way your front axle will act as steering if the rears lock up. Generally you will have a little more weight on the front axle. Mine is set up that way and it has worked very well on all kinds of road conditions.
 
Cvans said:
If you decide to put brakes on it some day I would suggest the rear axle. That way your front axle will act as steering if the rears lock up. Generally you will have a little more weight on the front axle. Mine is set up that way and it has worked very well on all kinds of road conditions.
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Thanks for the suggestion, Chris! Alan recommended the rear axle also. Probably won't change much for a while but going to start doing some research!

I think I may have fried the winch! It is a little 3,000 lb. with a key fob type wireless remote. Hooked a battery to it to test it again, and the remote stuck in pull! Don't think I got the battery unhooked fast enough. Hook wound into the spool and locked. It didn't help that it was wound in anyway. I bypassed the remote box and got it to reel out but VERY slowly! It worked fine several years ago when I got it. Been sitting in a cabinet since. Have to tinker with that some more.

DAC
 
I took the remote box off and touched the connections on the winch with battery power. It still runs fine in both directions. Think checking around to just go to a wired remote might be in order. I suppose buying a wired remote would cost more than a new winch! Hopefully not!

DAC

DSCN2857.JPG DSCN2858.JPG DSCN2859.JPG
 
KennyP said:
Have you checked the solenoids yet? A new wireless controller is under $20. Or if the solenoids are good, a DPDT switch can work.

Amazon.com: LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for Truck Jeep ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset : Automotive

Amazon.com: LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for Truck Jeep ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset : Automotive
www.amazon.com
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Thanks Kenny! I did a little testing tonight. This winch doesn't have a reversing solenoid. There's two, what I think are relays.
DSCN2867.JPG

I hooked the box up to a battery and hooked a voltmeter to the output cables, and took the remote apart as well. In button read negative voltage, and that is the pull command to the winch motor. That makes sense -voltage would reverse the motor. Pushed the out button and no voltage. The remote LED lit up in both positions.
DSCN2864.JPG DSCN2865.JPG

Then I reversed the polarity from the battery. It did exactly the opposite. Must mean both relays are working. That makes me think the remote isn't transmitting on the out side or the receiver quit picking up the signal on that side. That remote kit you linked, Kenny, is cheap enough to give it a shot!

Now I'm thinking that ordering the remote kit will work, I will have to figure out how to wire it up. Looks like changing from loop connectors to spades, then determine where to plug them in!

DAC
 
I have bought 3 of those wireless remotes, so I feel comfortable suggesting those. From your pics, it looks like both wires from the board are hooked into one relay? That does not seem right.
 
KennyP said:
I have bought 3 of those wireless remotes, so I feel comfortable suggesting those. From your pics, it looks like both wires from the board are hooked into one relay? That does not seem right.
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There's two wires going to each relay from the board. I'll take a picture later. Thanks, Kenny!

DAC
 
KennyP said:
That sounds correct! The new board will have different colored wires, so you have to test for correct rotation.
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Finally got a picture! I did order the one you recommended, Kenny! Thanks! Sliced my thumb wrapping Christmas presents so I got delayed a bit---LOL!

DAC

DSCN2870.JPG
 
I didn't get to actually work on the trailer, but made a couple plans at least. I was thinking about mounting the winch in a small box. The ammo can is about 3/4 inch too short. Thought about a couple empty tool boxes and decided against them too.
DSCN2873.JPG

I think making it removable like Jim had may be ok. I'll have to build a plate that hooks onto this hitch ball he has welded on there or better yet put a ball on the trailer bed so a straight pull can be had with the bed tilted up.
DSCN2874.JPG

Then I ordered a jack foot. For under 8 bucks shipped I can't even think about building one. The jack looks rough but it works very smooth and not a lot of effort. I just as well salvage it. I'll remove it, clean the base tube up, straighten the mount plate and add a tube to the crank bolt so it swivels.
DSCN2875.JPG

If I do the removable winch, mounting a permanent battery box shouldn't be needed either.
Little things, a little at a time. After I fix up the jack, hopefully next week, I has to go outside. I need to get a couple vehicles in here for some service.

DAC
 
Since you'll have a battery aboard get the HF electric tongue jack. It works great on my camper. Personally I like the swing up jacks on my flatbeds instead of having to do all that cranking up and down.
 
Here is an idea I used when mounting the winch and it has worked out pretty good over the years. The winch was mounted onto a piece of tube that would slide into a regular hitch receiver. The receiver was welded to the front of the bed. Then another piece like a receiver was welded to the tongue out of the way so the winch can be stored there. Pull one pin and you can move the winch from one receiver to the other.
 
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