I like your idea of welding up the whole area. It would be easier that way to drill a new opening rather than grind one. What size hole did you drill. Thanks DT!
Rescued A Cub Cadet 108
- Thread starter Sawdust
- Start date
I forget but I measured the pivot pin with a cheap dial caliper and drilled the closest I could find. I've done 2 this way... Where the pivot passes thru the frame I welded washers on the outside of the ears, and in the middle of the lever that activated the clutch I welded in a spacer, think I used a piece of water pipe, and then drilled that pipe crossway and tapped it for a zerk. I did "ream out" the pipe so the pivot pin would slide thru but not be sloppy. As I remember one had a 3/8 or 1/2" bolt and nut, while the other had a rod and 2 cotter pins.... Neither of these were new tractors so I'm not sure which was "stock".
The area I was pertaining to was the clutch release lever where the drive shaft passes through. That hole gets egg shaped. I got mine disassembled today and the wear isn’t as bad as I thought it would be. Do you think this amount of wear needs any attention. It would be easy to run a few beads on each side of the hole then grind it down.
My pivot point with the pin that you mentioned is is good shape, no play at all.
I got the drive shaft disassembled today with no problems. I found a few different types of spring compressors but had pros and cons on all of them. I came up with my own using what I had on hand. I knew the clutch disc would be bad but my clutch plates look bad. I tried cleaning them with one of them fiber pads on my grinder but they are pitted a lot. I had a good friend that had a machine shop that I used but he passed away with Covid a couple of years ago so right now I’m not sure about having these turned down or just buy a pair. After today my curiosity has winded down some since I found out about the clutch. Now I know what I’m up against which isn’t too bad compared to what I will have when fixed along with getting it so cheap.
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I was checking online for clutch parts tonight and came across a thread started by our missed and not forgotten friend Kenny. Along with Kenny, Dodge Trucker, and Olds45512 back in 2017. Thanks to DT that mentioned a place called Zach Kerber Machine & Design. These guys have anything you need at very good prices. For instance I can get both pressure plates made from one piece of billet steel for $62.95 a set. Most shops would charge that just for a setup fee. I’ve already got a cart with a few items 
That's the hole that the driveshaft passes thru, the ones that I had issue with run 90* to that, both in that piece and in the frame hanger. As of a few years ago that bracket you show was still available new.
Yeah I've ordered from them a few times over the yearsI was checking online for clutch parts tonight and came across a thread started by our missed and not forgotten friend Kenny. Along with Kenny, Dodge Trucker, and Olds45512 back in 2017. Thanks to DT that mentioned a place called Zach Kerber Machine & Design. These guys have anything you need at very good prices. For instance I can get both pressure plates made from one piece of billet steel for $62.95 a set. Most shops would charge that just for a setup fee. I’ve already got a cart with a few items
I decided awhile back I’m not going to have time to work on this project this year. I’m going to tow it out to it’s winter resting place until Spring. My curiosity did get the best of me before I towed it. I originally only found a bad clutch disc and pressure plates that were bad. I jacked up the rear end to check the tranny, not good. While I spin the rear wheels the shaft will turn but stop occasionally. I can actually hold the shaft with my hand while spinning the rear wheels. It does this in all three gears including reverse. I’ve never had one of these open before so I guess I’ll educate myself on these over the winter for a break down of the tranny come Spring. Any thoughts would be helpful.
The weakest thing inside those trans is the shifting fork, if/when it gets worn or bent then it doesnt move the gears to full extent... will also be a detent ball/spring that may have fallen out causing the gears to not be positioned just right.
Thanks Lance I was looking at that info about the fork. Since it’s doing the same thing in all gears I’m hoping it’s a minor fix like you mentioned.
those are good little trans but 50 years of gear jaming is hard on any trans... especially if/when the clutch isnt working as it should so maintaining that clutch in top working condition is very critical
I know where there's one sitting not far from me, but the owner wants it's weight in gold for it
And it really isn't that nice of shape to warrant that kind of dough
And it really isn't that nice of shape to warrant that kind of dough
Those early Cubs are not hard to sell for top dollar.... Ive gotten over $700 for ones that Ive dragged out of a field, all I had to do was show they could move under their own power.
@kanepuntz... I see your a new member so Welcome to TF..... but just an FYI.... you dont pull a 10/12hp k series and replace it with a 14/16hp k series.... any puller fan or engine builder will tell you the 10/12 blocks are the ones you want to work with... if/when the 14/16 engines get tired you dont have many options but use it as boat anchor... but with a 10/12 you can build them up to and above 18hp using mostly stock parts... then you rebuild the clutch and go have some fun at the tractor pulls
@kanepuntz... I see your a new member so Welcome to TF..... but just an FYI.... you dont pull a 10/12hp k series and replace it with a 14/16hp k series.... any puller fan or engine builder will tell you the 10/12 blocks are the ones you want to work with... if/when the 14/16 engines get tired you dont have many options but use it as boat anchor... but with a 10/12 you can build them up to and above 18hp using mostly stock parts... then you rebuild the clutch and go have some fun at the tractor pulls
I would stay with the 10 or 12 on these. You can do a lot more with these than the 14 and 16. Plenty room for boring.
I think many people mistakenly assume that the higher HP engines are somehow bigger overall but the k241 thru k341 actually all begin with the same block, they are just milled differantly to accept the differant parts.... and the k341/16hp is pretty much bored out to the max from the factory so once it wears out its not even worth rebuilding. Also the k341 has an extra head bolt so you can not put the higher compression LP head on it.
Even if your not building a motor up for pulling a freshly rebuilt k241/10hp has more usable torque than any tired old 14/16hp engine
Even if your not building a motor up for pulling a freshly rebuilt k241/10hp has more usable torque than any tired old 14/16hp engine
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