Sears ST/16 with a Predator (now Kohler)engine

KennyP

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I know I'm going backwards with this, but the Sears has too many issues to repair back to original.
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So I plan to make it operable (to a point). More of a yard buggy with limited capability. I bought a Predator 6.5 HP for another project that went SOUTH. So now I am thinking of putting it on here. But I don't know what diameter the pulley on the engine was to drive it. I plan to speed it up a tad (since it's a six-speed) and put 24X12's on it. It would be a cool yard toy.
 
Why not. It can always be changed back if you or somebody else would decide to do so.. :thumbs:
Those hoods are always an issue aren't they..?
 
Some old tractors have been changed or broken enough through the years that modifying is the most reasonable approach to getting more use out of them. It will be a good little workhorse around your yard!

DAC
 
I brought the old girl up this morning. Greased the steering and swapped the 24X12's on there. I have this nice 30# cast iron weight to use where needed off the tiller.
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Here's the tire size difference:
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And they are installed:
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Then I started thinking again. I have this nice running B&S cast iron 16 HP just sitting. May need a few pry bars to get it installed, but then I'd have electric start.
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I put one of those cheep predators on my log splitter. about 10 years ago. Still running fine and seldom takes a second pull to start.
Don
Yeah, but it's only 6.5 HP. Kohler would be 14HP. More than double! And I may need that in some situations. It may get more mods as time goes on. I can save the Predator for something else. May find another tiller!
 
I think that the biggest pulley you can put on a Tecumseh is a 7. Bigger and it hits the frame.

Basically, on that machine, it's.center of the output ro the frame, less a half inch.

You could.measure.the two engines and see what would fit.
 
Before I remove the K321S (6013B spec) engine from the Jacobsen, I am trying to get the wiring figured out. This has the breakerless (trigger) ignition. The white wire from the trigger goes to the ignition switch, but I have been unable to figure if it is grounded when the switch is off. I DO NOT want to put 12V to it if it is a grounding (kill) wire. The trigger is a NLA unit. So far, testing with an ohm meter shows it as open to ground, but that may be a bad connection. I'll mess it more today until I am sure what this wire needs. I have not found a wiring diagram for this anywhere and the Jake wiring is to vague.
 
Got it Daniel!!!! Found this wiring for the GT14 WH. Wire I am testing is marked with a X.
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It shows that wire going to the M terminal which would be grounded in the OFF position. I'll do some more tests to be sure, but that is what I was thinking it should do.
 
I got it figured out. It is a ground to kill wire! Be a bit yet before the real swap starts!
 
Fooled with the wiring on the ST/16 this afternoon. Got both the safety switches working. Think the ignition switch will work once power is applied, getting some continuity through it. Can't believe it's been 4 years since I drug it home!
 
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