Sears ST/16 with a Predator (now Kohler)engine

Well, I'm SOL on the Kohler. Not enough room to make it work.
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Gotta have the battery/fuel tank tray in there as the clutch pulley is attached under it. Pulleys were aligned well, just too far forward.

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they had a couple different clutch pulley setups on those thru the years whetehr they had a single or a twin engine, the "Roper" Ropers (not built to be sold as a Sears) ran Briggs C.I. engines, as did the 1 year only ('72 ish) SS 16 which was a derated 320000 derated from 16 to 15HP. That Briggs should go right on there.
 
Going to try the Predator after all then, or that Briggs?

DAC
More research before I unbolt the Briggs.

they had a couple different clutch pulley setups on those thru the years whetehr they had a single or a twin engine, the "Roper" Ropers (not built to be sold as a Sears) ran Briggs C.I. engines, as did the 1 year only ('72 ish) SS 16 which was a derated 320000 derated from 16 to 15HP. That Briggs should go right on there.
I'll see what I can find. This Kohler is heavy, I imagine the Briggs will be too.
 
Well, I'm SOL on the Kohler. Not enough room to make it work.
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Gotta have the battery/fuel tank tray in there as the clutch pulley is attached under it. Pulleys were aligned well, just too far forward.

View attachment 30204
Kenny the Kohler will work.
A cast iron Briggs was offered in 71 and 72 in the Suburbans and they are the same foot and taller and a little wider.
The Kohler swap has been many times.
If you Google "Kohler engine swap into a Sears Suburban" or go to the Sears Facebook groups you can take a look at how others have done it.
I need to get more coffee in me this morning and I have to run in a few minutes but don't give up on the Kohler just yet.
 
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Kenny the Kohler will work.
A cast iron Briggs was offered in 71 and 72 in the Suburbans and they are the same foot and taller and a little wider.
The Kohler swap has been many times.
If you Google "Kohler engine swap into a Sears Suburban" or go to the Sears Facebook groups you can take a look at how others have done it.
I need to get more coffee in me this morning and I have to run in a few minutes but don't give up on the Kohler just yet.
If I can figure out a fuel tank elsewhere, I may be able to build a different battery tray that is shorter. I won't go to Facebook!
 
I can move the Kohler back 2.5-3" if I modify some things. Fuel tank will go behind the seat. May not get much done today as I plan to spend part of the afternoon with my daughter. But I have a plan.
 
I can move the Kohler back 2.5-3" if I modify some things. Fuel tank will go behind the seat. May not get much done today as I plan to spend part of the afternoon with my daughter. But I have a plan.
Kenny I will do some searching later tonight when I'm at home.
Looking at your setup,you probably don't want to do this,but if you switched to starter generator the starter will go under the battery tray/gas tank tray and you engine can come a good ways back.
 
No starter/generator here! Don't have one and none available. I'll use it as is.
 
I have seen a couple of tractors with a quarter inch plate under the engine period studs welded to the plate for the original engine holes, and bolted to the plate where the new engine holes needed to be.
 
The OH series Tecumseh in those had a gear starter on them by the time Sears went to baby $#1t colored paint. Earlier ones had starter generator. I've had both versions over the years.
 
The OH series Tecumseh in those had a gear starter on them by the time Sears went to baby $#1t colored paint. Earlier ones had starter generator. I've had both versions over the years.
That's true. I'm guessing the starter just sits higher in the Kohler.
Kohler offered a low mount bendix starter too but but they are harder to come by and the blower housing tin has the starter bendix cover in a lower spot. So you would need a low mount starter and low mount starter blower housing tin.
 
By moving the fuel tank behind the seat and turning the battery crosswise, I can move the engine back at least 3". I think the crank height is higher on the Kohler too.
 
Think I could put a 9" or 10" on this.
 
By moving the fuel tank behind the seat and turning the battery crosswise, I can move the engine back at least 3". I think the crank height is higher on the Kohler too.
The crank height is the same on the Kohler as on the cast iron Briggs that was offered in 71 and 72.
On the Briggs powered tractors the top of the front frame sets one inch lower than the Tecumseh powered tractor frames.
Then Roper used a 1 inch spacer under the grill to raise the hood and grill back up to the correct height.
The foot print of the cast iron Briggs is the same as your Kohler. Roper did use a "ear" that stuck off the frame for the last motor mount bolt that stuck over the edge of the frame.
I have a 68 Suburban with a OH160 in it which in theory is too tall for these early Suburban hood setups.
I have a 1 inch spacer between the hood and grill to raise the grill,hood and brace bar to give the taller overhead valve OH160 more clearance.
 
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