SS 12 restoration

Hi bobcat2. You cross ref. a part for me, #17 is Husqvarna 532006270 seal. Was this the same seal you used for your TransAxle drive seal? The reason I ask is I found a PIC of that seal on a Web site and it looks to be made of all rubber. The seal in my Axle is metal with rubber seal on the inside edge.
 

Attachments

  • Drive seal.jpg
    Drive seal.jpg
    112.5 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:
I am working on pulling my brake drum now. I have a 3 jaw puller on it and used kroil too. No luck so far. I will need a new brake band, any ideas where I can find one. My brake drum is about 2 1/2 inches dia.
 

Attachments

  • Brake.jpg
    Brake.jpg
    160.3 KB · Views: 12
Last edited:
It is a standard metal/rubber oil seal. About the size of a nickel. I suspect they used a stock photo. I got my brake lining at McMaster and Carr.
 
Been a while since an update...

Tried extracting the broken transaxle bolts by welding nuts on them, that didn't work. My friend's son in law has an induction coil so we welded bolts onto the studs, heated them up white hot, and still broke more of the broken bolts off. Then we started drilling them out, and he wanted to try an easy out(which I disagreed with), and he broke it off in the last one. We ended up drilling out the broken easy out, boogered up those threads, so now I have to decide if I want to drill it and the frame out further and use a bigger bolt, or clean the hole up and use a helical insert. since there is a lot of meat there, I may just bore all of the holes out, tap them and use 7/16 bolts instead of the factory 3/8 bolts.

Still searching for a drive pulley, I still have to pick up that free tractor when I can get to it, it probably has one.

Still painting like a fool.

I managed to get the brake pulley off. I have a small 3 jaw puller that would get between the pulley and casing, so I put a decent amount of pressure on it, soaked it in kroil, and let it sit for a day, after that I added more kroil and pressure and let it sit for another day, after that, I put a little more pressure on it, and put a little heat on it using a MAPP torch, when it popped, it sounded like a .22 going off. I would've eaten that thing if I didn't put the nut back on.
 
Auto parts stores sell a seal puller, looks like a "T" but the top part is rounded, and a seal pick set. If you need something stiffer than a seal pick, you'll have to sacrifice a smaller cheap screwdriver. I ground the tip to a point, heated it up and bent the tip into a "U" shape. Just make sure the shaft is small enough to fit between the metal housing of the seal and the shaft.
 
Last edited:
I just checked out a neat video of this, but with an added trick. They welded a rod on the end of a pair of visegrips on the adjustment screw and made a crude slide hammer.
 
I JB welded my brake band material on the other day after wire wheeling the surface of the band and cleaning it with acetone. Since I had the brake pulley off, it was easy to clamp it, after 36 hours, I can't honestly pull the stuff off, I'm impressed.

I got the deck primed and the top painted, I covered the bolt holes with tape and got 3 coats of graphite paint on the underside and the blades. I still need to clean up the spindles, but I'm debating on pressing the bearings out since they don't have any play. I may just pump fresh bearing grease in them, clean the exterior up, prime and paint them with graphite paint. I'd like to at least pull the pulleys, but I need a set of long 3/8 drive hex head sockets so I can use my impact screwdriver on them. I tried with a standard Allen wrench and crescent wrench but I felt like I was going to break something so I stopped. I was able to pull the center one with standard sockets, but the outer ones are deeper.

I looked at the steering bushings a bit, they feel pretty tight yet, I may drill and tap them for grease fittings while its apart.
 
I got the rear tires mounted on the rims, they weren't too bad, just wrapped a ratchet strap around them and was able to set the bead. I'm going to put them on the back burner for now, I'm not sure if bead sealer dries, but I figured I'd let them sit with the valve stem cores out for a couple of weeks before I load them with RV antifreeze.

The front tires are a different story, I can't even start them on the rims, I'm going to take them to a shop to be mounted.

Thought my oil seals were done, but I forgot the two on the hubs. Instead of going through Amazon again, I just ordered them through Napa.
 
Getting down to the nitty gritty now, the rear section of the frame is wire wheeled and coated in rust reformer. I need to take the front section to the car wash and hit it with the pressure washer, I scraped most of the grease off, but there is a lot in the nooks and crannies of it.

I tried to clean up the threads on the transaxle, but two of them were boogered up pretty bad, so I ordered a thread repair kit and am just going to do all 4. Been a while since I've bought a kit, I don't remember spending $30 on it. I may ditch the inserts that come with it and use 316 stainless steel ones from McMaster and Carr. When that's done, I can start prepping it for paint.

I tore the Delco/Remy starter/generator apart using the repair guide I found online and cleaned, lubed, and bench tested it. I was going to get a rebuild kit for it, but the brushes and bearings don't look bad, there was some petrified grease in there that I think was causing a noisy bearing. It's currently getting a coat of paint. I still need to take a look at the voltage regulator, but I need to educate myself a little more on what to check while I'm cleaning it up.

Most of the deck stuff is done, I patched the pin holes, primed it, put 4 coats of Van Sickle EZ Slide graphite paint on the underside, and IH white paint on top. I can't get the pulley off of one spindle, but they are all tight, so I really don't need to break them down, I'm going to flush them out with new grease, clean them up and paint them.

More of a "look organized" thing, but I'm putting those fancy grease fitting caps on everything, I usually do a before and after wipe when greasing to keep things clean, but between work and personal equipment, I'm finding it harder to remember every fitting on every machine, and it's nice when a big, yellow cap shouts "don't forget me!".

I still need to purchase quite a bit of stuff yet, drive pulley, steering wheel, seat, seat cover, decals, belts, a few idler pulleys, some miscellaneous electrical stuff, and some other odds and ends.
 
I have a pdf on voltage regulators but I just put a new operating system on this computer and don't have my files loaded as yet. I'll post it when I do.
 
Got the files back on here. Now to find what you might need. Here's one from my Cub Cadet folder. I have more, just have to find them.
 

Attachments

  • 1R-116Reg.pdf
    1.8 MB · Views: 3
Found them. I have several. I also added some Starter/Generator files in case you want to look at them. One file is too large for me to upload here.
 

Attachments

  • IG_186.pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 4
  • Delco-Remy.pdf
    2 MB · Views: 3
  • IH Cub Cadet Delco-Remy SG Repair.pdf
    826.9 KB · Views: 2
Been a while since I updated...

Not much to update, I did go through my voltage regulators and cleaned them up. Cleaned the contacts, made sure the gaskets were ok, cleaned up the exteriors and primed them. I did have to solder a new jumper on one of them. Guess I need to smoke test them when the engine is back on.

Haven't done much with the tractor lately, Boy scouts and the nice weather here has been keeping me busy at work and home. Sure wish she was done, just had 12 tons of topsoil delivered to fill low spots and pine tree roots in my yard. I can haul it with the DGS6500, but the plow on the SS12 sure would be nice to rough it in. I also need to get about 15 ton of 2b for my driveway. I was talking to my buddy about splitting the cost of renting a skid steer for a weekend, he needs work done but doesn't know how to run the machine, figured get my stuff done on a Friday night and take it to his place and teach him how to run it, love watching people learn how to run a skid steer, after the first 15 minutes, you almost need a come along to pull their undies out.
 
Back
Top