I've done the before, cut a slot then drove a chisel in it to spread it.
SS 12 restoration
- Thread starter bobcat2
- Start date
I've done the before, cut a slot then drove a chisel in it to spread it.
Almost lost a pinkie today!
My complacency kills story.
Was trying to drop the transaxle today and was in a weird position, not paying attention to where my wondering fingers were. As the transaxle was starting to move, I felt the pressure and realized my pinkie slipped into a bolt hole. Thankfully my son was there and was able to slip some bolts it while I stayed perfectly still, lol.
Sad part is, I caused this problem by not listening to my past training, always remove the hard to get to bolts first. I thought I did, but didn't see the hidden bolt holding it all together. I should've stopped, put a few easy bolts in, then took the hard one out.
Thankfully it was only a garden tractor and my son was there to help. I tried to rush and 2, 3/8" bolts almost cost me a digit.
Don't be like me, plan it out and do it safely.
My complacency kills story.
Was trying to drop the transaxle today and was in a weird position, not paying attention to where my wondering fingers were. As the transaxle was starting to move, I felt the pressure and realized my pinkie slipped into a bolt hole. Thankfully my son was there and was able to slip some bolts it while I stayed perfectly still, lol.
Sad part is, I caused this problem by not listening to my past training, always remove the hard to get to bolts first. I thought I did, but didn't see the hidden bolt holding it all together. I should've stopped, put a few easy bolts in, then took the hard one out.
Thankfully it was only a garden tractor and my son was there to help. I tried to rush and 2, 3/8" bolts almost cost me a digit.
Don't be like me, plan it out and do it safely.
I got it off, I cut along the side with a Dremel, hit it a few times with a chisel, soaked it in kroil, then put a bearing puller on it. Even after all of that, it was still tough getting off.
I missed the new shoes and the pinkie posts.
The new tires look great if those are the oem rims, the width will make them look perfect on there. Oh, are you planning on tubing them? They will work without, but the fronts especially will be more reliable with.
As for the digit. Been there, maybe not with a finger in, but had my fair share of quick hand jerk-backs.
Sometimes you should've seen it, sometimes you can't see everything. Just be thankful you can still count to 10.
The new tires look great if those are the oem rims, the width will make them look perfect on there. Oh, are you planning on tubing them? They will work without, but the fronts especially will be more reliable with.
As for the digit. Been there, maybe not with a finger in, but had my fair share of quick hand jerk-backs.
Sometimes you should've seen it, sometimes you can't see everything. Just be thankful you can still count to 10.
Front tires will be tubed, I'm trying to go Tubeless on the rears to get more fluid in them. Depending on how well it steers in the snow with the plow on, I may fill the fronts too, which will gain me about a whopping 8 lbs. per wheel, lol.
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Got a chance to mess with the transaxle tonight...I first scraped 3/4" of old grease and dirt off of it, then pulled the drive and brake pulleys, then soaked it in super clean for a few hours.
I scrubbed the shifter area and pulled the assembly out, disassembled it, soaked it in super clean then put it back together with a new rubber shifter seal and gasket. When I assembled the shifter, I put new washers in, and polished all of the wear parts and gave them a coat of bearing grease. I thought it shifted fine before, it's pretty smooth now.
Looking at the steering shaft tube on the frame, I may replace the 2 brass bushings in it, I'm having a hard time finding them, but I imagine I can find something to work.
I scrubbed the shifter area and pulled the assembly out, disassembled it, soaked it in super clean then put it back together with a new rubber shifter seal and gasket. When I assembled the shifter, I put new washers in, and polished all of the wear parts and gave them a coat of bearing grease. I thought it shifted fine before, it's pretty smooth now.
Looking at the steering shaft tube on the frame, I may replace the 2 brass bushings in it, I'm having a hard time finding them, but I imagine I can find something to work.
Another aspect of this project I didn't consider was belts, springs, and idler pulleys. I can live with 3 of the belts I have now, but I'd like to replace the one under the mowing deck mandrel cover while it's off, same with one idler pulley. I definitely want to replace all of the springs while I'm putting it back together. I know of 2 idler pulleys that feel rough...I thought fishing, target shooting and handloading were an expensive hobby, why do all of the cool things cost so much? Lol
Coming along nicely & good efforts towards having a very dependable tractor. Any hobby can get expensive but still beats laying around watching tv. I noticed lately I'm feeling a little resistance shifting my SS15. Now that I have a few other tractors up & working I need to do some maintenance on it. I have to be careful to just clean & assemble not restore.
Hi, I was looking at your restoration and noticed you replaced the seals in your transaxle. I have a 1966 Suburban 10 and I am looking for information on what, where I can get the seals for the drive axle and the brake shaft. I have not been able to find the cross reference for these seals. I think it is #17 and #52 on drawing and sears part #6270H
and #6271H. Any information would be appreciated.
and #6271H. Any information would be appreciated.
A welder that owes my buddy a favor thinks he can get those busted bolts out of my transaxle by running a rod deep into the bolt, welding a nut on the stud, quenching it, then he says they should back out pretty easy. Gonna try it tomorrow...Broken bolts in question. Is say they have 3/8" shank sticking out.
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We didn't succeed in removing them, bolts are way too soft. At least I shouldn't have a hard time drilling them out, lol. Now I have to level them off with a grinder, try to center punch them, and drill straight pilot holes. I may get an estimate from a machine shop.
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I'm surprised they didnt come out by welding the nuts on. That usually works really well.
Those bolts are really soft. Working them back and forth, we couldn't get one to move. I'm glad I got at least one out to know what depth to stop at, I'm not sure how much material is behind them before I poke through the housing.
My front tubes showed up today, gonna try Mission brand, they seem pretty heavy. Now I can run the fronts and rears over to the shop and have them mounted.
Not sure if anyone else does this, but on tubed tires, I put a wire grommet in the valve stem hole to keep it from rubbing, not sure if it helps, but my grandfather always did it.
Looking at steering wheels now, kinda hard to find one with the correct center bore that isn't as big as a ship wheel, lol. I'll find one or break down and buy a genuine used unit.
My front tubes showed up today, gonna try Mission brand, they seem pretty heavy. Now I can run the fronts and rears over to the shop and have them mounted.
Not sure if anyone else does this, but on tubed tires, I put a wire grommet in the valve stem hole to keep it from rubbing, not sure if it helps, but my grandfather always did it.
Looking at steering wheels now, kinda hard to find one with the correct center bore that isn't as big as a ship wheel, lol. I'll find one or break down and buy a genuine used unit.
Worked on replacing oil seals today.
Axle seals aren't too bad, pretty straight forward. The Hi-Lo shifter seal was a bear because it's tiny, about the size of a nickel. When I pulled the brake pulley, I put tension on it with a 3 jaw puller, hit it with kroil, let it sit for about 24 hours, and repeated. On the third day, I lubed it up, put more tension on the pulley, and was starting to walk away when it popped loose. I'm glad I put the nut on before I stared, I think it would have shot across the garage, it had quite a bit of tension on it. The seal itself wasn't too bad.
Now that the oil seals, rubber seal, and gaskets are replaced, I shouldn't have an issue with oil leaking out of water leaking in. I need to grind my broken bolts flat so I can drill and tap them, then I can prime and paint it and get it back in.
Looked at my free tractor a bit, the rear rims are the same, so I'll eventually wire wheel them down, paint them, buy another pair of Deestone ags for them, load them and put them on if it doesn't plow well. I don't mind doing that except for buying another set of tire chains. I'm gonna try the 2 link spaced v-bars I have, but I'm worried about using them on ag treads. I saw the duo and diamond style are for deep treads, starting at $125 per set. Not sure if I'll need duals or not, but it sure would look cool, lol. With a wider stance, I could possibly reduce some of the weed eating I do now, which is about 3 hours to do my main bank.
Axle seals aren't too bad, pretty straight forward. The Hi-Lo shifter seal was a bear because it's tiny, about the size of a nickel. When I pulled the brake pulley, I put tension on it with a 3 jaw puller, hit it with kroil, let it sit for about 24 hours, and repeated. On the third day, I lubed it up, put more tension on the pulley, and was starting to walk away when it popped loose. I'm glad I put the nut on before I stared, I think it would have shot across the garage, it had quite a bit of tension on it. The seal itself wasn't too bad.
Now that the oil seals, rubber seal, and gaskets are replaced, I shouldn't have an issue with oil leaking out of water leaking in. I need to grind my broken bolts flat so I can drill and tap them, then I can prime and paint it and get it back in.
Looked at my free tractor a bit, the rear rims are the same, so I'll eventually wire wheel them down, paint them, buy another pair of Deestone ags for them, load them and put them on if it doesn't plow well. I don't mind doing that except for buying another set of tire chains. I'm gonna try the 2 link spaced v-bars I have, but I'm worried about using them on ag treads. I saw the duo and diamond style are for deep treads, starting at $125 per set. Not sure if I'll need duals or not, but it sure would look cool, lol. With a wider stance, I could possibly reduce some of the weed eating I do now, which is about 3 hours to do my main bank.
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