Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Bought a WC allis once with a stuck valve. Father in-law came over and showed me how to fix it without taking the head off. This one was stuck partially open so the push rod wasn't bent. Pulled the rocker arm shaft and the valve spring. Can be a bugger if the Valve is open. After soaking with penetrating oil tapped the valve stem with a brass hammer till it just started to move. Then hooked a low speed 1/2" drill to the stem and while applying oil to the stem turned on the drill. After the valve spun for a little bit started running the valve up and down for a few minutes. Reassembled things and the tractor and it's owner lived happily ever after.
Don't you just love happy endings. :rolleyes:
PS.
Does look like you have a couple cylinders running excessive oil.
 
Cvans said:
Bought a WC allis once with a stuck valve. Father in-law came over and showed me how to fix it without taking the head off. This one was stuck partially open so the push rod wasn't bent. Pulled the rocker arm shaft and the valve spring. Can be a bugger if the Valve is open. After soaking with penetrating oil tapped the valve stem with a brass hammer till it just started to move. Then hooked a low speed 1/2" drill to the stem and while applying oil to the stem turned on the drill. After the valve spun for a little bit started running the valve up and down for a few minutes. Reassembled things and the tractor and it's owner lived happily ever after.
Don't you just love happy endings. :rolleyes:
PS.
Does look like you have a couple cylinders running excessive oil.
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We did a similar fix to the sticky valves in our hand start John Deere B when we got it. They wouldn't close all of the way so we sprayed penetrating oil on them and tapped them lightly with a brass hammer until the spring pressure seated the valves again and its been running fine ever since.
 
My brother came over and helped me with a final cleanup on the head and installed the valves. We decided to check how well the valves were sealing since we didn't touch them other than wire brush the carbon off. We did this by filling the chambers over the valves with solvent. Only one port showed any dampness after sitting for 10 minutes. I need to clean the top of the block next and then the head should go back on.

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Ryan313 said:
That looks great, I like seeing a project moving alone fast. Did you ever find the cause?
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It's most likely baked oil build up on the valve stem and guide and after the engine sat for months the valve seized. Then when we fired it up again it bent the push rod. I am surprised to find no damage other than the push rod. I expected to find a galled valve stem and guide, but after cleanup the valves and guide looked and measure up like new. We'll see if I missed something in the next few days when we get it fired up again.

The only other possible cause could be it went to long between oil change or some sort of contamination like antifreeze which so far I have not found. I'll be putting fresh oil in before starting it back up.
 
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The cows started calving this week so I haven't spent much time on the SC, but did get going again yesterday afternoon. I pulled the carb apart last week and found a partially collapsed float with a little gas inside. This might be another reason for cylinders looking so black and sooty. The local tractor parts store had one in stock. While cleaning it I noticed the bowl was slightly warped so I sanded it smooth with some 220 wet or dry paper on a flat aluminum plate with some solvent poured on it. That got it straightened out and I assembled it today. Yesterday I got the radiator put back on along with the manifold. Today I hope to get the oil changed, antifreeze filled, carb installed, and then see if it will run. I'll add the hood and grille after its up and running.

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Got it running this afternoon. Pulled it out of the shop for a test run in the driveway and then took it up to the farm. We are going to use it moving a couple thing's and then my brother wants to put the plow on to work up a garden area.

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Do you grease up the mold boards before storeing?
We always did and carried a squirt can of used motor oil. would clean any stuck on dirt off the boards and squirt on some old oil. seemed to shine up quicker that way.


:D Al
 
alleyyooper said:
Do you grease up the mold boards before storeing?
We always did and carried a squirt can of used motor oil. would clean any stuck on dirt off the boards and squirt on some old oil. seemed to shine up quicker that way.


:D Al
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We sprayed some rattle can black paint on it after the last use a couple years ago and that kept it from rusting, but our clay soil doesn't wear it off very fast. We have tried grease, oil, and some LPS #3, but with limited storage our plows sit outside and eventually start to rust. The rattle can black held up better for us.
 
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