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Howdy from South Central TEXAS!!

Very nice tractors, you'll get years of service out of them. The later model is more than likely a model '312' since it has a 'M' series Kohler on it. Is it a hydro or manual trans? 3sp or 4sp with high/low.

We mounted 1 of those in a friend of mine truck. Had to end up bracing it to the side rail of the bed because the floor wasn't string enough to hold it vertical when you get up to that 1,000lb limit. @SupplySergeant

Noel, Actually thought about that but it seemed to help ease the post out of the ground with the compression of the leaf springs. It quit squatting when it got down on the overload springs!:thumbs:;):D @Propane1

Chris, if it picks up this long bed extended cab 7.3 diesel front end, I'll need some else to pull those posts! ;) :D @Cvans

Not really, I only pulled forward a couple inches with the chain around the concrete to help get it come up out of the ground.

I needed to take out a bunch of steel posts from a chain link fence that I replaced with a privacy fence for one of my customers. So I came up with using my engine hoist rachet straped in the bed of my truck. It worked really well and I didn't have to fight pulling those posts with concrete on them.

I put about a tablespoon dry Epson Salt around all of my plants and it gets in as I water or it rains. Also using an organic liquid fertilizer made by Madina called "Has to Grow". If I could find fish emulsion, I'd use it but haven't found any as of yet this year.

Very nice Alan, you might want to sharpen the chain if you're going to do much more cutting.

And take the shroud off and clean the cooling find. I can see a mouse nest on there and it'll cause the engine to run really hot. Nevermind, I now see the last picture and see you got it all cleaned out :D

Get someone to braze 8t up and grind the tooth shape back into it. It'll last a long time. It takes a lot of preheating and slow cooling while peening it to stress relieve it as it cools.

Glad to hear you came out ok on your test!

Kenny, the vertical pivot point is about 4" in front of the lower mounting point to the tractor. The "A" frame is about 16" long from vertical pivot point to the horizontal pivot point. Hope that helps, it's from memory.

@bobcat2 , If you'll run a little Sea-Foam in the gas the carbon buildup will go away. You can also clean the carbon out by trickling a little in the carb whiles it's running. Be prepared to give it throttle to keep it from dying and also you can expect a big white cloud out of the exhaust as...

Pecan wood, you need to start smoking some meat with. I use Pecan and apple and man it does a great flavor to the meat. Glad you're feeling better today. I was sick for 4 days starting last Friday and ran a fever for 3 of those.

If you don't have the tiller mule drive, no big deal. I built one out of spare pulleys I had and some flat bar for mine.

My "O" has a timed belt 36" deck on it and it doesn't have discharge chute either. It measures about 36 1/2" wide. Thanks Daniel, I didn't know my deck had a mulching kit under it. :thumbs:

I have a 42" rear discharge WH deck, but it's still at Daniel's farm. Maybe if he feels up to it he can turn that deck over and see what the gaps are. I think the baffles should be within 1/2" all the way around the front half of the blades. @olcowhand

Take the kill wire off the switch and ground it to the frame or battery ground. If the engine dies, it's a bad switch.

@larrybl , It's called flame welding "Brazing" and it's similar to soldering. You can for weld just about any non-ferrous or ferrous material in closing aluminum. It's really art when you figure out what preheat and post heat you need along with what flux and filler rod you need to use. As far...