I would say that is a wise choice. If a quick lap by hand won't create a perfict seal then the valves or seats are beyond lapping and need machining or replacement.
Don
Back in the shop doing light duty things
- Thread starter MNGB
- Start date
Don
I bought a new valve spring compressor off Amazon I've had and used the scissor type for years but its always a job to get it in place and to work without slipping off and then once everything is squeezed together there very little room to get at the keepers so I bought a Lisle compressor and boy oh boy did that work great I got both valves out before I would have gotten one started with the other one. As I suspected the intake was really recessed as was the exhaust but lucky both seats look good so its to try out the new lapper tool and then install the valves and set the lash
I think the same Kenny, I've had a number of their tools and been happy with them reasonably priced available just about everywhere
Good deal the valve lapping tools came in the mail this afternoon so I got both valves lapped and the intake reinstalled and the exhaust half done my old hands aren't as steady as they could be in the morning they should be a little better then its to set the valve lash and reinstall the breather and cover. Checked the points filed them and got good contact set them at 0.020" and put a new eye type terminal in the coil to points wire.
Valves are both installed and the valve lash is set, took a little bit as my old hands and fingers just don't want to cooperate like they should, this afternoon its to reinstall the breather and cover, the fuel pump and replace the oil pan with one that is a side drainer vs the bottom drain and when that's off check the balance gears good
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I've used head gaskets over again with good results. They were given a close inspection first. The head gasket in the Diesel Kubota is re-used and has worked just fine. I had actually intended to replace it after test running it but it has run so good that I never did. The heads usually get torqued to the high end of the torque range and again after run in.
Hi Chris I to have reused head gaskets that check out good on small air cooled engines and I definitely torque them with a torque wrench using the proper sequence and retorque after running a few hours
Its surprising how some guys think just going around and tightening the bolt till they think it good is all that is needed, on another forum a guy was complaining that he had replaced the head gasket twice and it kept blowing everybody was telling to plain the head and the block set the valve check the timing etc, finally I asked if he was using a torque wrench and the torque sequence per the manual NO to both got him to download the manual and barrow a wrench he did it right no no more problems
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It is amazing how many people think torque specs are just a suggestion..
The 16 hp is coming together rounded up a coil condenser coil mt and made a new spark plug lead, ( used my new SP lead crimper it works like a charm) modified the flywheel grass screen to use a PK PTO stub shaft , checked the starter over and tested it its working good so I gave it a SD overhaul another words it got paint
Thanks Noel yes it has the 3" CS or are you referring to the PTO clutch stub shaft that's standard for Power Kings with electric PTO's
Stadard Kohler 1 1/8" X 3" crankshaft
I've never heard of a South Dakota overhaul before. I'm still learning.
New one on me too, Chris!---LOL! Cool new avatar picture!
Dang it Noel, the headlights work, I just never know when they decide not to---LOL! That's it if you want the truck you have to show up here and drive it home yourself----LOL!
Looks like you are about ready to fire this engine, Gary!
DAC
To add to your education and for KennyP how about an Oklahoma warranty if it breaks in 2 you get to keep both parts no extra charge
