Thanks Noel, yep left the gears in it yea I thought it was running really nice
Back in the shop doing light duty things
- Thread starter MNGB
- Start date
Guess I shouldn't have been bragging so much after Tea, I went in and ran the engine some more it starter right up sat there idling I went to my toolbox to get something came back gas was running out the carb, shut it off tapped lightly on the carb hoping the float was stuck started it up idle run the R's up and it seemed ok idled it back ok for a bit then the gas started running so sometime today will have to pull the carb and check the needle seat and float
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Removed the carb split it was clean as could be inside remove the float shook it good nothing inside got the needle valve out couldn't see anything cleaned the tip reassembled the carb, removed the choke arm ( I had installed an aftermarket arm in the past) turn it 180 and riveted it back on, reinstalled carb on the engine connected the fuel line and cranked the engine it started fine let it iidle to warm up no leaking revved it up ran it at high R's throttled back let it idle no leaking, shut the engine off let it sit no leaks restarted it same good deal no leaking so maybe its good. After Tea started it up no leaking found when I removed the float bowl that that the bowl gasket popped out of place dropped the bowl but it had expaned and wouldn't into the groove so had to get a new one and installed it reassembled and ran the engine again for 10+ minutes no leaks so looking good. Tomorrow will retorque the head bolts put some zip ties of the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the carb and torque the spark plug
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OK Noel I'll let you know but I'd hate to burden you with it in case it turns out to be a dud
Started it this morning let it warm at idle running perfect revved it up and run for a bit then back to idle no leaking running so nice shut it off put zip ties of the fuel hose from the pump to the carb, retorqued the head bolts. I read you don't hae to do this on Kohlers because they use a bolt that is stronger then a grade 8 but I found one that turned some and a 2nd that moved a bit. torqued the spark plug. Speaking of spark plugs I generally use a Champion H10 in my Kohlers but I had this brand new SP that came with an overhaul package I bought for Kohlers its an Insta-Fire MGD 89013 anyone heard or used these so far it as good as it gets
Hi Chris yes it is I should spend some time getting it a bit more organized for all the different wires needed for B&S Tecumseh and Kohlers
I hear ya! Always worry as I crank them for the first time after rebuilding.
I can remember my first engine rebuild was a 64 Chevy Impala 283. I had torn it down and put a bunch of aftermarket speed stuff on it trying to make it as close to a 327 as I could. It started right up and I was so nervous I shut it down right away. I just knew it was going to blow up. I did this several times until I built my confidence up to let it run longer. I think sometimes we carry our experience of days gone by to these little engines still.
I've done quite a few rebuilds too Jim, and worked with a lot of oval track race engines. I still drive a truck with a 355 (.030 350) SBC I built back in 1986. About 7 years ago I had to replace the heads. I got a old set from a friend that had been "checked out" and were "good". They were completely disassembled though. I put them together and they seem to have been as I was told.
Now a single cylinder Kohler is trying to kick my a$$----LOL!
DAC
My first rebuild was a 64 289 ford as it kept dropping valves and the last time I put 427 valve springs in it. The last one was a 84 chevy that I put in my 78 GMC van, sold it to the mechanic that works for the Simplicity dealer I got my ZT from and last time I talked to him he said it still running good.
I have a K301 sitting in my garage that I need to check the bore to see if I need to get it bored.
I have a K301 sitting in my garage that I need to check the bore to see if I need to get it bored.