I see that now. Couldn't quite tell.
A piece of Mason string took the seal out on my ariens input shaft...
MF 1450
- Thread starter MFDAC
- Start date
I see that now. Couldn't quite tell.
A piece of Mason string took the seal out on my ariens input shaft...
The left hand right hand is for rotation I believe. The way yours is now is correct.
Maybe that piece of crap took this seal out too! Was that a tough seal to replace, Aaron?
DAC
Glad it's correct, but the drive shaft doesn't ever change rotation. Do you mean the bolts for removing the cover, Jason?
DAC
On that tractor it had a sunstrand pump. The lip seal was exposed there right at the end of the shaft. I was able to disconnect the drive shaft run 2 small screws into the metal of the seal and put mechanics wire on it in a loop. Yank it straight out. Then tap in the seal with a socket and hammer.
Took 5 minutes to put the seal in....but a few hours figuring out how to get everything apart and back together
Not sure how that one is setup!
I believe this is a Sunstrand as well, Aaron. Not going to try and change it quite yet, need to know if it's even going to operate first. Then there will be a long list of stuff to do if things work like they are supposed to do! In South Dakota we don't have "mechanics wire". It's all "balin' wire"---LOL!
DAC
It’s for drive shaft rotation. It can be set to either clock wise or counter clock wise depending on what’s driving the transaxle
Well another greenhorn dumb question! I've never had a shaft driven tractor or an engine in one where the crankshaft was pointed front to back! Then it never dawned on me that the engine could be in there 180* opposite! Just glad you guys are coaching me in this! Thanks again, Jason and Kenny!
DAC
Today didn't work out how I was hoping, but still gained a little more ground! Had some house chores to do in the morning, then I went out to fire up that freebie Jeep, and it started fine. Idled nice about 2 minutes then just died like the switch was turned off. Would not restart. Started the '55 and ran an errand into town and when I got home figured I better get the '72 fired up and checked out to drive to work until I get this "Jeep thing" figured out. '72 had a tire nearly flat and so was the spare. Managed to get it backed up to the shop and air the tire up. Could see a leak bubbling in the tread since the tire was wet from a damp driveway. I have one more old spare for it so took pressure gauge and went around back and checked. Still has air! Little low but aired it up. Moved tractors and since the weather was nice enough just backed in far enough to change the RR tire. It was low on gas so took it down the highway to the nearest place. I was really thanking the new administration for it costing me 60 bucks to fill it up! Prices are up about 70 cents a gallon in the last month. Just the beginning I'm afraid. Got back, mail had gotten here and the governor spring made it! Nosed the front end of the '72 into the shop to check fluids and it has needed the electric choke adjusted a little richer so got that done. It's kind of a cold-blooded truck. I would drive the '55 but I haven't made time to put the new headlight switch in yet. Too dark when I go to work still.
Anyway back to tractors. By the time all that drama was done, went to print the governor adjusting procedure so I had it at the tractor and the printer quit! Put a new black cartridge in it and it still won't print black. Oh well, just tried to remember and installed the spring anyway. Think it is right. Had to remove the choke rod and pump to carb line to do it. By that time it was nearing dark and cooling off so still no attempt to fire it up on gas. Rig up the gas tank should be about all that's left to see what works and how it runs.
Idle.
Full throttle.
DAC
Anyway back to tractors. By the time all that drama was done, went to print the governor adjusting procedure so I had it at the tractor and the printer quit! Put a new black cartridge in it and it still won't print black. Oh well, just tried to remember and installed the spring anyway. Think it is right. Had to remove the choke rod and pump to carb line to do it. By that time it was nearing dark and cooling off so still no attempt to fire it up on gas. Rig up the gas tank should be about all that's left to see what works and how it runs.
Idle.
Full throttle.
DAC
Yes, Kenny, that is what the manual said too. Problem was at that point on the governor lever, the throttle lever only took about a half inch of movement to go from idle to full throttle. Moving it to the lowest hole got me 1-1/2 inches or so, still nowhere near full throw for the throttle lever.
Idle position
Full throttle position
That was after I moved that spring to the bottom hole. I'd still like to have more swing in that lever. Maybe I need to drill another hole in the lever plate.
DAC
Not sure how I will change that hydro pump seal yet. Pulled the pins and slid the coupler toward the front far as it will go. That drive shaft has obviously been tore up before and looks like it was welded in place with no thought of ever having it apart again.
That was metal hanging out around the input shaft, and I think it was pieces of the seal.
It looks to me that the seal had been installed backwards!
DAC
Looks to me in this pic that the wadded up spring is visible and the rubber lip of the seal is backward.
This poor old tractor is looking pretty darn rough.
DAC
That was metal hanging out around the input shaft, and I think it was pieces of the seal.
It looks to me that the seal had been installed backwards!
DAC
Looks to me in this pic that the wadded up spring is visible and the rubber lip of the seal is backward.
This poor old tractor is looking pretty darn rough.
DAC
You can change the spring location on either end, the governor side and the cable side. I would set it up to the book setting first Doug, then adjust it once you get it running. I know on some of my JD's, I have way more throw on my throttle lever than is on the governor, sometimes I even get the same on the choke side. Setting a Kohler up from the beginning is a bit of process, but once you get it dialed in you'll have a nice little powerhouse. Two upgrades I would suggest, a epoxy filled coil and a Kirk's Transdensor II. The oil filled coils can heat up and vibration tends to make them fail or act up. The Transdensor II gives you a better spark and drops the voltage going through the points, making the points last longer.
Last edited:
I understand what you mean, but there was virtually no throttle lever movement from idle to full! Like I said maybe a half inch and that is out on the knob! Got to have a little more than that don't you think?
DAC
You might be right, I'm not sure how MF had their throttles set up. I do know there are alot of variables with Kohlers. Have you made the governor adjustments yet? I usually set the governor first because the spring makes it difficult to set up with it attached. I usually start with the governor, setting it up by the manual. Then, if needed I go to the threaded rod connecting the governor arm to the carb, so when the governor is full off, the throttle butterfly is full closed. Lastly I adjust the spring settings. You might have to do some adjustments afterwards.
Is the seal backwards or is the face of the seal ate off?
Wondering if that shaft wasn't welded true and it has enough wobble that it caused it to eat the seal.
Wondering if that shaft wasn't welded true and it has enough wobble that it caused it to eat the seal.