That's a good possibility. I think you would have to move the engine forward to get that out of there!
MF 1450
- Thread starter MFDAC
- Start date
I have the same thoughts that the shaft isn't welded true and the wobble ate the seal as post a lot of it isn't OEM
2X on JD's suggestion on the Transdenser I have 2 Kohler 14 hp engine with his older Points saver module they work great engines start and run great and the points will last almost forever
Yeah Jake, I did the governor adjustment first. I tried to show that in the carb butterfly pictures in a earlier post. It seems to swing properly and is coordinated with the throttle travel. I did have to move the threaded rod a couple of turns to jive with this carb.
DAC
The shaft may not be welded true, Aaron, it seemed to rotate by hand just fine. There is a spacer that "floats" between the Lovejoy coupler and that seal. Not sure I like that. I am 99.9% sure that seal is backwards, studying the cell phone pictures zoomed in. I couldn't fit a camera in there so the phone had to do. The rubber lip appears to be pointed away from the pump instead of in towards it. That metal I got out was the little "roll" they put in the seal housing for strength on the open side.
DAC
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Yeah Kenny, may have to move the engine then. There is another splined part of the shaft ahead of that front set of pulleys and behind the engine. At the very least that pulley mechanism will have to be unbolted to slide forward but engine will probably have to move too.
DAC
That's possible Gary, but I am pretty sure it ate at the backside of the seal, not the front, and i think that loose sleeve on the shaft is what rubbed on it. Not sure why that even needed to be on there with the coupler pinned to the splined shafts.
One of you guys filled me in on the Transdenser before, but memory can't come up with who. Think I saved the link though. I'm surprised they hadn't gone to electronic ignition by 1979 when this tractor was probably built. Tecumseh and some Briggs had by then.
DAC
Is that bushing next to the bad seal free floating? If so it should be removed or it's gonna eat a new seal even put in correctly. Originally there was a splined connector that had a hole for a pin to center it between the hydro input shaft and a splined shaft that had another splined connector at engine pulley end.
Doug, the later M series Kohlers had electronic ignition. I wont swear to it, but I think there were some K series that had it, but the charging system wasn't too robust, only enough to run the engine. A trick I learned in the Military for getting a seal out is if you have a small enough heel bar, you could hook the inner lip of the seal and pry it out. Or, a pilot bearing puller could be used.
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I know I owned a late 70's Wheel Horse GT14 that had factory solid state ignition on a Kohler K321.
That is how this one is set up, Daniel. Centered pin between the rear pto pulleys and the engine and the shaft with the coupling pinned on each coupling half. I sure don't see the need for that spacer either. Even with the seal backwards, that spacer could easily been rubbing on the seal.
DAC
Looking at the first photo, I don't like the look of the angle on the pump side of the lovejoy coupler, it doesn't look true. If it was me Doug, I would pull the spark plug, and turn the shaft slowly ( I use a socket with a ratchet or breaker bar on the crankshaft nut or bolt, depending on which side of the engine I have access to). If you get the wiring figured out you could also spin it over with the starter.
It will spin with the starter now. Got the new switch hooked up last weekend. That's how the pump leak became obvious as it pressured up some. One of the reasons it looks so crooked in the pic you mentioned is that the pins are pulled and the whole coupler assembly is shoved forward to the pto drive pulleys. It's dangling on the end of the splined shaft. Only about an inch it looks like.
I guess this is about the only picture I took where the coupler is visible pinned in position. It looked fairly straight then.
DAC
That looks better Doug! One thing I'm not sure if someone brought up earlier, how do the rubber motor mounts look? If they're loose or dry rotted you might get a good bit of vibration from the motor. I came close to almost trashing the pump on my 316K because I almost forgot to check the rubber motor mounts on it, one was loose, and two were completely dry rotted!
Isn't there supposed to be a washer between the coupler and seal? Thought I saw that in the parts manual.
The K321 on the ST/16 is solid state.
I have to agree the seal appears to be installed the wrong way.
Another problem I see is there is a very small amount of spline engagement at the Hydro shaft. That bushing should not be there and the splined coupler should be slid on to the hydro shaft at least an inch to save the splines. There are a weak point in this drive system as it is.
You may have to do something about the alignment of the 2 shafts to accomplish this. The hydro input shaft can not have a side load on it. That shaft only has a brass bushing for support.
Another problem I see is there is a very small amount of spline engagement at the Hydro shaft. That bushing should not be there and the splined coupler should be slid on to the hydro shaft at least an inch to save the splines. There are a weak point in this drive system as it is.
You may have to do something about the alignment of the 2 shafts to accomplish this. The hydro input shaft can not have a side load on it. That shaft only has a brass bushing for support.
Thank you for the comment, Ducky! That is great info and I will address that in my next post rather than in this quote to you. The picture you referred to was after I pulled the pins and shoved the whole assembly toward the front. The problem is actually reverse!
DAC