MF 1450

Just ordered a pistol grip photo tach. My old one has something wrong as if I don't take battery out it runs it dead. Hadn't seen the pistol grip ones, but know it'll be easier to use.
 
All this talk about checking rpm got me wondering if this works. This is what you need for checking rpm, ! Both about the same.

Noel
 

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All this talk about checking rpm got me wondering if this works. This is what you need for checking rpm, ! Both about the same.

Noel
That's pretty cool! Snap on stuff has always been out of my price range. I've got an old analog tach-dwell but it doesn't have the rpm select feature. Since 4 cylinder is double the 8 cylinder reading, I imagine the math would be 8 times the 8 cyl. reading for a single! Calibration isn't fine enough. Too much thinking for this geezer any more---LOL!

Thanks for showing us that, Noel, nice old meter!

DAC

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Could one of you folks with similar tractors take a picture of that main drive shaft? Pretty sure the one in this tractor needs to be altered to get more "bite" on the splines. Daniel did say that the original one didn't use the Lovejoy coupler like this one has.

Thanks in advance!

DAC
 
Fired up that 1450 today before I took the battery out. Needed it in my wife's LT I put together for her last December. Unfortunately it looks like that K321 is a smoker too. I did do a bad video of it but it won't post here. It's a .mov file and it doesn't look like the site supports that.

Did some searching on the net for pictures of what the original 1450 hydro drive shaft would have looked like and had no luck. Checked GTT too. Anyone have something similar? I understand if you don't want to remove that fragile looking cover though. It's long gone on this one.

DAC
 
Wish I could help with the shaft pic, but the only thing Massey of that era has a modded driveshaft, so can't help ya.
If it's a picture of a modded one it is ok with me too, Daniel. I will probably end up modifying this one anyway to try to get more shaft in the splines. I just thought looking at an original one may be a good place to look for ideas. This thing will not be a restoration by any means! Just want to make it work fairly reliable!

DAC
 
Drained the transaxle this afternoon, going to let it drip overnight. Need to get 5 qt's of Dexron and a filter. Maybe tomorrow I can pull that front cover to remove that backwards seal and get a number from it to order one. Drain plug was rounded off so vice grips had to do the job. Got more pipe plugs laying around here.

I'm going to put in the new seal, fluid and filter, re-install the too short drive shaft long enough to see if the transaxle and hydro system actually will work.

DAC
 
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Got that front plate off the hydro to research and install a new seal on it and this one has a roller bearing, not a bushing. It took some searching but finally came up with SKF 7443 for the seal number. Got 2 coming. I think that seal was installed the correct way after all like Aaron thought and that sleeve that floated around on the shaft ground the outer face off of it. It was so mangled it is hard to tell.
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From what I can see, the pump looks pretty good. Just gotta cross my fingers! Splines on the shafts are another story. That's why I want to build a driveshaft that grabs as much as possible. I'll deal with that after I know things might work.
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Looks like I just as well get ATF and a filter at FleetFarm again, better prices than Walmart even.

DAC
 
I did pick up a filter and six quarts of atf at FleetFarm yesterday, so when the seal gets here got the stuff on hand. Filled up my gas cans with non-ethanol premium too. Pulled the old oil filter off tonight after work and whoever put it on must have thought it said tighten 3 or 4 turns not 3/4 turn---LOL!

DAC
 
The input shaft seal came in today. I may get to tinker with it later on tomorrow. Get the plate put back on, install the drive shaft and filter, fill with fluid, and as far as I know it can be fired up.

Is there anything else I should be aware of starting a rough tractor with a hydro like this? I'm just trying to determine if it will move and the two hydo cylinders work. The forward, reverse pedal looks like it should work right, and the levers on the spool valve move but the float lever for the deck lift is sticky.

Any warnings or other stuff to check will be appreciated.

DAC
 
If I remember right, the hi-neutral-low shaft isn't working right? Put rear axle housings on jack stands just in case. You don't know yet if the neutral adjustment in pedal is set correctly.
Thanks for the reply, Daniel! I THINK the H-N-L shaft is working now. The shaft slides in and out and feels like it clicks into positions. The lever was tweaked some and now after a little bending, it seems to stay engaged to the "T" on the shaft. That is VERY true, I don't know if the neutral adjustment on the pedal is correct! I will definitely get it up on stands due to your advice!

DAC
 
Remember to sneak up on it Doug. That’s about all the advice I can give. Good luck. I’m sure it will work fine. You’ve done a great job with it. I’m sure you’ll let us know how it works.

Noel
That sneaking up technique is a skill I have yet to master, but I'm learning from the best! Yeah if I don't end up in the hospital or a coma from some kind of hydraulic catastrophe, you can be sure I will update y'all on if this thing might actually have a future as a useable tractor!

Thanks, Noel!

DAC
 
I appreciate the support from you guys on getting this old beater operating as it should!

Got it up on the jackstands, installed the front plate on the pump with the new seal in it, put on the filter and filled with 5 qts of fluid. Installed the driveshaft like it was. There was still plenty of daylight and it hadn't gotten too cold yet so opened the overhead door and fired it up. No hydro action at all. Looked at the driveshaft, and it had walked off the front splines and the pump wasn't turning. So, as a temporary fix, hose clamps to the rescue!
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The driveshaft is spinning in the pic but the camera shutter speed is too fast to show it.

Didn't see any leaks or hear any bad noises so I operated the spool valve levers. Deck lift operated correctly as well as the 3 point. There was a noise when I put the deck lift in what I think is "float" but will deal with that later.
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So time to push the pedal! Put it in low range and forward and reverse work!
Same thing with high range!

So you know what that means----drive the dang thing!
Threw the fender and seat assembly and steering wheel on and out we went!
I didn't remember to take a pic until I started to back into the shop after driving around a bit and testing reverse, as well as hi-low and neutral.
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It has no brakes! The pedal in high range is abrupt in both directions but pretty smooth in low range. It looks like it will be a candidate to be a workhorse around here then. Plenty more to do obviously!

DAC
 
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