MF 1450

Ya, you want to get that pto shaft out of there, for sure Doug. Top link looks home made, but if right length and end, it would work. Top link should more very freely. Spindle sure looks out of whack. Take the wheel off and check the bearings. Then look at spindle, put a little heat to it and bend it back to where you think it should be. Take the other wheel off too and check bearings and then you can see where to bend the other one to.
I have never had one of these models of MF ‘s, so I may not be much help. One step at a time Doug.


Noel
 
Propane1 said:
Ya, you want to get that pto shaft out of there, for sure Doug. Top link looks home made, but if right length and end, it would work. Top link should more very freely. Spindle sure looks out of whack. Take the wheel off and check the bearings. Then look at spindle, put a little heat to it and bend it back to where you think it should be. Take the other wheel off too and check bearings and then you can see where to bend the other one to.
I have never had one of these models of MF ‘s, so I may not be much help. One step at a time Doug.


Noel
Click to expand...
I appreciate every bit of help Noel! Weather a person knows this exact tractor or not I'm sure a most applies to all 3 point GT tractors in general. That shaft could very well be rusted in there I suppose. That upper link doesn't swivel up and down so it's probably rusted solid too. I thought that link looked kinda weak too.

I think that left front is toed out some too. Will have to do as you suggested there too. The steering box seems awful loose too. About a half turn on the steering wheel each way before it gets to the front wheels! Hope it's adjustable!

DAC
 
Keep looking at the steering before trying to adjust the box. Could be movement in all the tie rod ends before it gets to the wheels. Check the centre axle pivot too. If it’s loose, that will show up in the steering wheel travel too.
If you can drain the trans fluid, measure the amount that comes out. I’m not sure if the MF 14 has the same trans or not. But both take 5 quarts, or 4.7 litres.

Noel
 

Attachments

  • 786348FC-2586-44EE-BB51-799545D50E6D.png
    786348FC-2586-44EE-BB51-799545D50E6D.png
    398.3 KB · Views: 3
You came through on tractor data again for me, Noel! I probably better start doing more of my own research rather than bothering everyone with all these dumb questions! That is the 1450 data so it's gotta be correct i would think! Hopefully there may be a cross reference for the oil. Maybe it can be ordered but the only MF dealer around here won't go back real far on age. They just want to sell new ones. Then I better find out if the filter can be had too!

DAC
 
Toomanytoys84 said:
I agree with checking all the links. Every cub I've ever messed with needed all new tie rod ends. Made the steering tight
Click to expand...
The outers seem tight, but yes underneath may be a bunch of loose stuff. I'm trying to find as many issues before I buy too much stuff and decide if it would be better to just part it out and scrap the rest.

DAC
 
The PTO stub is made to the implement shaft. It goes into the female of the tractor pto. The ring ahead of implement shaft pushes towards the tractor to release the lock balls, all which will be rusted. Lots of penetrate oil, then it may come loose. But the hole the shaft fits into is pen on front end, so if you have to you can remove the whole assembly and drive the shaft out. I had to do it that way once. I seem to forget a lot, like looking for that fuel tank today, but if I remember, I'll see how far from the dipstick hole the full point is.
 
olcowhand said:
The PTO stub is made to the implement shaft. It goes into the female of the tractor pto. The ring ahead of implement shaft pushes towards the tractor to release the lock balls, all which will be rusted. Lots of penetrate oil, then it may come loose. But the hole the shaft fits into is pen on front end, so if you have to you can remove the whole assembly and drive the shaft out. I had to do it that way once. I seem to forget a lot, like looking for that fuel tank today, but if I remember, I'll see how far from the dipstick hole the full point is.
Click to expand...
Thank-you Daniel! That will be great to know! Can a different ATF be substituted rather than the MF brand?

DAC
 
Good Morning DAC, can't help you with the fluid level but it would not be to the top, as for the top link yes it should twist and be adjustable looks like someone made one to work and yes its a Cat 0 hitch, Definitely looks like a bent spindle and a bit out of adjustment on alignment
 
Last edited:
Propane1 said:
Pictures of the trans in my MF 14 Doug.

Noel
Click to expand...
Looks like the same transaxle, Noel. lever setup is different but that's it.

olcowhand said:
The full line for hydro oil should be right at 3 1/4" below the top of the hole in the differential. I have an extra tube, but not the dipstick.
Click to expand...
Sounds like I need to add 1/2" of oil then, Daniel! My measurement from the top of the hole to the oil is 3-3/4". I probably will change the oil and use the specified amount, but need to find a filter first and I am interested in that tube if you want to sell it! I may be able to build a dipstick.

MNGB said:
Good Morning DAC, can't help you with the fluid level but it would not be to the top, as for the top link yes it should twist and be adjustable looks like someone made one to work and yes its a Cat 0 hitch, Definitely looks like a bent spindle and a bit out of adjustment on alignment
Click to expand...
I better just get the correct link then, Gary but need to get that swivel freed up too. I'm going to do some searching for cat 0 attachment ideas then! Right now I'm thinking of building some pallet forks and a boom pole of some sort. Oh and a trailer hitch. That's a ways out there though. Just need to get it running and working first. Maybe will check out that camber on the left front this weekend too.

Once again thank-you all for the valuable info!

DAC
 
Went out in the main shop to see if the rear pto shaft may have freed up after Daniel's info. Sprayed it with Yield last night along with the top link pivot on the 3 point. took a punch and put against the lock ring and gave it a gentle whack with a hammer. It moved! Gave it a little harder hit and the ring slid forward just as he described. The lock balls exposed and surprisingly, not rusty. Shaft still wouldn't pull out but gave it a pry and a whack, and sure enough, out it came! grabbed that top link on the 3pt and gave it a whack too and it swivels freely now! Think I still want the proper adjustable type though.
DSCN2980.JPG DSCN2981.JPG DSCN2982.JPG

DSCN2983.JPG

Had no luck getting the exhaust pipe out yet so I soaked it again and will try tomorrow. Want to repair or replace it to get the muffler to seal well.
DSCN2984.JPG

The front clutch hasn't had power to it for a long time. The feed wire looks to be gone!
DSCN2985.JPG

No dumb questions tonight for once! The learning curve on this thing is still vertical though!

DAC
 
Hey Doug looks like you had a good day, I'll attach a link to a good company to get Cat 0 parts like the top link a draw bar I've ought many things from them have always been very happy with the products and service.
www.agrisupply.com

Top Links (mini) Cat 0 - 9 3/4

This is a replacement top link category 0 top link. This body has a length of 9-3/4 inches and closed body of 13-9/16 inches. This can extend out to 19-3/32.
www.agrisupply.com www.agrisupply.com

Farm Equipment, Mower Parts, Tractor Parts, Garden Supplies | Agri Supply

Agri Supply carries farm and agricultural supplies, tractor and mower parts, essentials for your home, lawn, or garden and so much more. Come check us out - It's what's inside!
www.agrisupply.com www.agrisupply.com
 
MNGB said:
Hey Doug looks like you had a good day, I'll attach a link to a good company to get Cat 0 parts like the top link a draw bar I've ought many things from them have always been very happy with the products and service.
www.agrisupply.com

Top Links (mini) Cat 0 - 9 3/4

This is a replacement top link category 0 top link. This body has a length of 9-3/4 inches and closed body of 13-9/16 inches. This can extend out to 19-3/32.
www.agrisupply.com www.agrisupply.com

Farm Equipment, Mower Parts, Tractor Parts, Garden Supplies | Agri Supply

Agri Supply carries farm and agricultural supplies, tractor and mower parts, essentials for your home, lawn, or garden and so much more. Come check us out - It's what's inside!
www.agrisupply.com www.agrisupply.com
Click to expand...
Thanks, Gary, looks like a good price too! If the shipping isn't crazy that is the one I'll get!

DAC
 
Having just read through this whole thread I can tell that you are one excited guy. That's great. I wish we didn't live on opposite ends of the state as I'd love to come over and sort out your wiring for you. Looks like you picked up a neglected jewel.
Have fun and I might have some parts for that engine if you need them and a clutch if we can figure out how to tell if they are the same.
 
MFDAC said:
Thanks, Noel! I hadn't had a chance to go there yet. I got info for those LTs there!




I worded that all wrong! I meant it was hard to reach to turn over! That front pulley is on a clutch so I couldn't grab it there. Just spins free. Once I got it in the shop this afternoon, it dawned on me to turn the lower drive shaft. Felt good then. Remember, I have never worked on a hydro before!

NOW on a really good note, I set a battery in it, found a couple of battery cables and pushed the starter button. It cranked! Didn't have to jump the solenoid! Then I rounded up a coil wire (good thing I save old junk. Cranked it again, no spark. Looked closer at the coil, and no wires were hooked to the positive side. Clipped a jumper from there to the battery and there was spark! SO then I squirted some ether in the hole where the carb should be and it fired! Sprayed ether in it a couple seconds and it revved up. Figured I better quit right there!

There is someone coming out to look at that Camry pretty soon so I may have to sign off all of a sudden.

DAC

View attachment 33956
Click to expand...
A lot of times people install a push button on these old machines because the key switches go bad due to the high current draw. That rear pto shaft would be nice to convert a mmm to a 3 point mower. I plan to do this with one of mine as it has the rear discharge mmm now, id like to convert it to a 3 point.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top