I checked the old manuals & it doesn't say anything about RPM's. I assume they just ran the 3600RPM deck at 2000? Definitely better to go slower than faster.
MF 1450
- Thread starter MFDAC
- Start date
Thanks Chris, but my biggest concern right now is the condition of the transaxle. The tractor will roll no matter where I put the levers and brake. Not supposed to do that from what I understand. The differential shift shaft spins pretty freely and will unhook from the lever and I don't think that is right. May indicate broken stuff in there. I could probably repair anything, but my wallet may not stretch that far. I will get the engine running and test it at least. Parting it out is still a possibility.
I think it was Late December last time I looked at your "June Bug" build page. Gotta check it again!
DAC
I didn't get it out of the tractor today, but I'm not sure what pin you mean. The joint on the drag link is tight. The slack is in the input shaft area and behind that plate that acts as the pitman arm. Looks like I may have to take out a hydro cylinder to get at the mounting bolts. The upper steering column plastic bushing is loose as well.
DAC
Thank-you Ted, I may have buggered up the steering wheel threads pulling the wheel off. I may be able to chase them but don't know yet. I'll have to borrow a die from work. Nut doesn't want to go back on but I didn't mess with it long. Bad rust. I'll let you know what I need soon as I know!
DAC
Good info, Jason I appreciate the pic. Can definitely see how that MF made a top link fit on that tight mount! No spherical bearings! I may have to take you up on the offer, but I'm still unsure if the tractor is savable yet. I don't want you to send me the link since a part-out is still possible.
Is the transaxle "Tee" shift shaft supposed to rotate? like I've been saying concerns about the condition of the transaxle are bothering me. The lever unhooks from the shaft quite easily, plus the tractor rolls in any gear.
DAC
I did Ted's suggestion and tested the front clutch. Seems to work nice! Locks up tight when power is applied.
Was able to get the steering wheel to start moving with a prybar and hammer but it was still real tight. Was able to use the puller adapter that I had to build for the MF12G after that. Pretty bad rust in there.
I have my doubts if this steering wheel can ever get round again.
Then I took off the remains of the plastic dash to have better access to the steering gear. I bet these plastic parts are impossible to get.
That's about it for today. Shoveled snow and just this kind of cold wears me out.
DAC
Was able to get the steering wheel to start moving with a prybar and hammer but it was still real tight. Was able to use the puller adapter that I had to build for the MF12G after that. Pretty bad rust in there.
I have my doubts if this steering wheel can ever get round again.
Then I took off the remains of the plastic dash to have better access to the steering gear. I bet these plastic parts are impossible to get.
That's about it for today. Shoveled snow and just this kind of cold wears me out.
DAC
See that stud (cam follower) with the nut on it? That is Part #5 on page 10 of the parts manual. Supposed to be cone shaped inside where is meets the worm gear. Those will wear, creating slack in the steering. Should have a flat screwdriver slot on the outside to adjust it. Here's a link to an informative page on these steering gears. (Cub Cadet based, but shows parts for all tractors using the Ross box. Scroll about half way down to find the cam followers)
How to Repair, Improve and Modify the Steering on a Cub Cadet and Other Makes and Models of Garden Tractors
small engine repairs, kohler, carburetor, carburetor rebuilding, engine rebuild, ignition, ignition trigger kit, garden tractor pulling, cub cadet
gardentractorpullingtips.com
One possibility is that the tractor sat for so long, the fluid drained out of the pump. If there is no fluid in the pump, there won't be any resistance when pushing the tractor.
Its been a while since I messed with mine, but I believe the high/low pushpin dose turn all the way around if the lever forks are not in the way. I think if it was turned to where it disengaged from one side of the fork, the other side would have it trapped and keep it from spinning all the way around.
One thing you can do to test the hydro would be to pull the engine and put a drill on the drive shaft and spin it. It might be easier to just get the motor running and see what happens.
You probably saved yourself a major headache leaving that wheel horse behind. The rear-end in them do grenade and when that happens it doesn't only take out the rear-end it tears up the hydro pump and motor. Both are a bear to rebuild and get right. It is not a fun project.
I was thinking that myself!
I'm pretty sure the belly deck ran at 2000 also off the motor. That doesn't mean the blades were that, the deck gearing can be changed to run faster.
There was a rear PTO adapter that you could run a 540 attachment, they are like finding hens teeth and about as expensive.
Thanks, Kenny! Lots of good info there! Looks like they have the parts too.See that stud (cam follower) with the nut on it? That is Part #5 on page 10 of the parts manual. Supposed to be cone shaped inside where is meets the worm gear. Those will wear, creating slack in the steering. Should have a flat screwdriver slot on the outside to adjust it. Here's a link to an informative page on these steering gears. (Cub Cadet based, but shows parts for all tractors using the Ross box. Scroll about half way down to find the cam followers)
How to Repair, Improve and Modify the Steering on a Cub Cadet and Other Makes and Models of Garden Tractors
small engine repairs, kohler, carburetor, carburetor rebuilding, engine rebuild, ignition, ignition trigger kit, garden tractor pulling, cub cadet
DAC
Thank-you, Cold1! Now I'm feeling a little better about it! The guy I got it from had it for many years and said he never had it running. This shifter will disengage but maybe something is bent to allow that shaft to rotate clear out of the fork.
DAC
I think one i had, had the shifter bent. Its not a strong rod they used for the shifter rod. I seem to remember that one would not move the pushpin enough to engage high gear. I just bent the shifter to get it to work.
I think the belly mower gearbox was a 1:1 ration and was 3500 rpm. The 540 RPM gearbox attachment couldn’t run any attachments that went on the 3 point as there was no room. It would run a stand alone attachment like a grain auger, generator etc.
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Looking at the parts book on Agcopartsbook.com. The internal shift fork for the high and low is kept in place by 2 snap rings, one on each side of the shift fork. I had a MF14 that would not shift, took the rear housing apart and one of the snap rings missing on the shift fork.
I'll have to go take a look at that Ted! I do think it is shifting as it feels like gears engage/disengage in all 3 positions. Thanks for your comments!
DAC
