MF 1450

MFDAC said:
I appreciate every bit of help Noel! Weather a person knows this exact tractor or not I'm sure a most applies to all 3 point GT tractors in general. That shaft could very well be rusted in there I suppose. That upper link doesn't swivel up and down so it's probably rusted solid too. I thought that link looked kinda weak too.

I think that left front is toed out some too. Will have to do as you suggested there too. The steering box seems awful loose too. About a half turn on the steering wheel each way before it gets to the front wheels! Hope it's adjustable!

DAC
Click to expand...
I have a spare original top link Doug, I'd do the same thing Daniel offered me for the fuel tank, pay shipping & it's yours but you can probably buy one of those nice after markets cheaper lol. (can't seem to find them cheap in Canada that easily
 
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Cvans said:
Having just read through this whole thread I can tell that you are one excited guy. That's great. I wish we didn't live on opposite ends of the state as I'd love to come over and sort out your wiring for you. Looks like you picked up a neglected jewel.
Have fun and I might have some parts for that engine if you need them and a clutch if we can figure out how to tell if they are the same.
Click to expand...

Thank-you Chris! Yes I could use all the help I can get on the wiring! Wish we were closer too! Kinda like living on a remote island out here! That is most definitely my biggest weakness in general. I think enough is missing that sorting it out isn't possible anyway. The wiring diagram Kenny provided is pretty easy to understand though. I did order a 5 terminal switch and engine harness that plugs into that switch. Looks like the connector still on the tractor and it's supposed to be compatible with the K321. Can I just give the clutch a 12V shot to see if it grabs? It spins nice and tight bearing wise. Gonna have to round up some wire too. Got enough connectors I think.

Yeah it's pretty obvious I got excited, but it's not very often I find something that I can actually afford! My wife even approved to buy it but said "damm that thing is ugly!" I just said, "look at my pickup". She loves that thing too.

Here's some destroyed wiring pics for your enjoyment!

DAC

DSCN2987.JPG DSCN2988.JPG DSCN2989.JPG

DSCN2990.JPG
 
MNGB said:
Hey Doug looks like you had a good day, I'll attach a link to a good company to get Cat 0 parts like the top link a draw bar I've ought many things from them have always been very happy with the products and service.
www.agrisupply.com

Top Links (mini) Cat 0 - 9 3/4

This is a replacement top link category 0 top link. This body has a length of 9-3/4 inches and closed body of 13-9/16 inches. This can extend out to 19-3/32.
www.agrisupply.com www.agrisupply.com

Farm Equipment, Mower Parts, Tractor Parts, Garden Supplies | Agri Supply

Agri Supply carries farm and agricultural supplies, tractor and mower parts, essentials for your home, lawn, or garden and so much more. Come check us out - It's what's inside!
www.agrisupply.com www.agrisupply.com
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Thanks again Gary, but they have pretty high shipping. Tractor Supply has one locally for 25 bucks. BUT there's another issue so keep reading, please!

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
Thank-you Chris! Yes I could use all the help I can get on the wiring! Wish we were closer too! Kinda like living on a remote island out here! That is most definitely my biggest weakness in general. I think enough is missing that sorting it out isn't possible anyway. The wiring diagram Kenny provided is pretty easy to understand though. I did order a 5 terminal switch and engine harness that plugs into that switch. Looks like the connector still on the tractor and it's supposed to be compatible with the K321. Can I just give the clutch a 12V shot to see if it grabs? It spins nice and tight bearing wise. Gonna have to round up some wire too. Got enough connectors I think.

Yeah it's pretty obvious I got excited, but it's not very often I find something that I can actually afford! My wife even approved to buy it but said "damm that thing is ugly!" I just said, "look at my pickup". She loves that thing too.

Here's some destroyed wiring pics for your enjoyment!

DAC

View attachment 34092 View attachment 34093 View attachment 34094

View attachment 34095
Click to expand...
The connectors in the second pic looks like the two for your electric clutch
 
jason silliker said:
A lot of times people install a push button on these old machines because the key switches go bad due to the high current draw. That rear pto shaft would be nice to convert a mmm to a 3 point mower. I plan to do this with one of mine as it has the rear discharge mmm now, id like to convert it to a 3 point.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the comments, Jason! I have a switch and engine harness on the way.

NOW you really have me thinking which can be dangerous---LOL! There is a late 1960's Sears Suburban 42" mower deck leaned up against the wall in one of my sheds! It's in great shape with all the lift brackets and mule drive, but no one wants it. That thing maybe can be converted! Side discharge but I don't know if that's a problem!

jason silliker said:
I have a spare original top link Doug, I'd do the same thing Daniel offered me for the fuel tank, pay shipping & it's yours but you can probably buy one of those nice after markets cheaper lol. (can't seem to find them cheap in Canada that easily
Click to expand...
It may be what I need to do Jason! I'm a little confused on that top link now. It looks like there isn't enough room for a spherical bearing end in there and all the cat 0 ones I am finding are 5/8" hole. Sorry didn't take time to convert to metric. The pin in this one is 1/2".
DSCN2986.JPG
Could you send a picture of that original link? I may need to bend a new piece of strap and drill it for any link!

DAC
 
The blue wire in the first pic looks like it may for the clutch. Hook up a ground wire to the engine and put 12v pos to the clutch wire and the clutch should lock up.
 
Today still got some time to tinker. Don't think trying to get that exhaust elbow out to repair is a good idea. I don't want to hurt the cylinder casting. Maybe I can still get the muffler bolted tight enough into it to stop the exhaust leak.

I've got some concerns about the condition of the transaxle now. No matter what position the speed lever is in, the tractor will still roll freely. In low range I can feel resistance but it still rolls. The shaft that goes into the transaxle is a "tee" shape and rotates enough where it disengages from the lever. It still feels like it "clunks" into position though.
DSCN2994.JPG

The bearings in the steering box are real loose or bad. Both steering wheel input side and pitman arm side. Someone was extremely hard on the steering. The dish is almost completely flat in the steering wheel which makes the steering wheel itself be triangle shaped. Been trying to bend that back into shape but not having much luck. Soaking the steering wheel with Yield to hopefully get it off and take the steering box out. Steering wheel may be junk.
DSCN2996.JPG

That LF wheel banged into something pretty hard once too. That tie rod is bent and the drag link reinforcement bracket has a broken weld. The weld doesn't look like it got much penetration.
DSCN2995.JPG

The 3 point stationary bracket hooked to the hydro cylinder swivel had gotten broken at some time too. The repair looks adequate though.
DSCN2993.JPG

On a positive note, all the tires have held air since Tuesday, even though they are hard as a rock!

DAC
 
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esbbent said:
The blue wire in the first pic looks like it may for the clutch. Hook up a ground wire to the engine and put 12v pos to the clutch wire and the clutch should lock up.
Click to expand...
Thanks Ted! I'll test that clutch tomorrow! Don't know if any of the wiring is salvageable yet.

DAC
 
Is it a Ross steering box, in the tractor Doug. Most garden tractors have that. Should be the same thing in your MF 12.

Noel
 
Propane1 said:
Is it a Ross steering box, in the tractor Doug. Most garden tractors have that. Should be the same thing in your MF 12.

Noel
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I'll have to look! Hopefully bearings are some standard ones and not something that's not available any more.

Thanks, Noel!

DAC
 
So far you haven't mentioned any probems that I'm sure you can't handle. You seem to be quite recourseful.
I'm going through the same thing with June Bug and find I'm actually enjoying it.
 
MFDAC said:
I appreciate the comments, Jason! I have a switch and engine harness on the way.

NOW you really have me thinking which can be dangerous---LOL! There is a late 1960's Sears Suburban 42" mower deck leaned up against the wall in one of my sheds! It's in great shape with all the lift brackets and mule drive, but no one wants it. That thing maybe can be converted! Side discharge but I don't know if that's a problem!


It may be what I need to do Jason! I'm a little confused on that top link now. It looks like there isn't enough room for a spherical bearing end in there and all the cat 0 ones I am finding are 5/8" hole. Sorry didn't take time to convert to metric. The pin in this one is 1/2".
View attachment 34096
Could you send a picture of that original link? I may need to bend a new piece of strap and drill it for any link!

DAC
Click to expand...
No you can’t convert that old deck Doug because I need a rear PTO shaft like that lol.
Here’s a factory top like, like most things Massey made them different lol. You can make homemade but you either have to make the top block like the one to the left side of the pic or change the half round mount like in your pic. (Yours is bent open a little by the way)
 

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Seeing as it had the rear Pto shaft still there I wonder what they ran on it, a deck or a tiller. Yeah they were a little rough on it lol.
 
jason silliker said:
A lot of times people install a push button on these old machines because the key switches go bad due to the high current draw. That rear pto shaft would be nice to convert a mmm to a 3 point mower. I plan to do this with one of mine as it has the rear discharge mmm now, id like to convert it to a 3 point.
Click to expand...

The problem with these is the rear PTO is 2000 rpms, can be hard to find implements at the speed.
The MF1655/1855 had a rear mount mowing deck, you could also get a rear tiller, JD I believe had a rear tiller at 2000 rpm.
 
TAHOE said:
The problem with these is the rear PTO is 2000 rpms, can be hard to find implements at the speed.
The MF1655/1855 had a rear mount mowing deck, you could also get a rear tiller, JD I believe had a rear tiller at 2000 rpm.
Click to expand...
Yeah I wondered if the gearbox RPMS on the Massey decks were different between the mmm and 3 point deck or does the rear mount
just spin at 2000? It is only cutting grass.
 
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