MF 1450

Propane1 said:
What do you use to heat your shop Doug. ?

Noel
Click to expand...
I've got an 80,000 btu natural gas Mr. Heater. It's shelf mounted about 8' up, Noel.
Took that picture Jan. 2018 when it was brand new. I've hung a ceiling since then too. It works great, but I just don't want it to run at a workable temp all day when I'm at work, just for an hour or two of production! By the time it gets up to 60 or so it's time to shut down and hit the shower and the sack! My office warms up fairly quick since it's small with a 7 foot ceiling. If I was retired, I'd run the crap out of that heater, unless gas gets hit hard by new energy policies. That may make it unaffordable too.

DAC

new shop furnace Jan. 2018 011.jpg
 
Doug, I don’t have water in mine, but I do the same, keep it at 45 degrees or so. Just to keep other things from freezing. I use a propane house furnace for this. Then when I go out I’ll get the wood stove going. Doesn’t take to long for everything to warm up.

Noel
 
I keep my waste oil furnace at lowest thermostat setting of 45F. But being well insulated, if I've been working in the shop one day, and set thermostat down, the next morning even if in the 20's outside, the heat has never had to come back on. I know because the temp inside will still be like 48 to 50.
 
The shop area is 35x30 and 14' ceiling. 3/4" thermax is all for insulation. Ceiling is 3" thermax, attic then another 3/4" of thermax on top the roof trusses. Lot of volume to warm up and so much junk crammed in here that has to warm up too. Of course that big icy concrete slab holds the chill like a big reefer plate. Wish I could afford to keep it 70F all the time! Like I said, when I get home from work, it takes a while when the temps are sub zero outside and by the time I can be comfortable after freezing my a$$ off for 10 hours at work, it just ain't warming up enough for me to want to be out there. We get out of this sub zero rut I may feel more like working in the shop after work. Not right now though. On a more positive note, I'll run that furnace hard tomorrow since I'm off work, and got some parts for the 1450 here. Got a few chores to do in the morning though.

DAC
 
Ya that would take a lot to heat Doug. My shop is 28’ x 24’. 8’ ceiling. Sons garage, that has the h@!$t, is 40’ x 20’ and 13’ ceiling. Heat pump has been keeping it above freezing so far this winter. But not comfortable today. Last two days below 10C. But been colder outside. Has a wood stove for heat when he’s out there.

Noel.
 
Propane1 said:
Ya that would take a lot to heat Doug. My shop is 28’ x 24’. 8’ ceiling. Sons garage, that has the h@!$t, is 40’ x 20’ and 13’ ceiling. Heat pump has been keeping it above freezing so far this winter. But not comfortable today. Last two days below 10C. But been colder outside. Has a wood stove for heat when he’s out there.

Noel.
Click to expand...
Ceiling fans help some too. Push that warm air back down where it belongs! I gave up the wood heat stuff many years ago, Noel. Glad you guys have a good system to stay warm!

Got it pretty nice out in the work bay today. Wasn't feeling the greatest until after noon. Got a shingles shot yesterday, right arm ache and just felt kind of sickly, moved pretty slow. It wore off faster than the first one at least! Arm is still achy but got house chores done while the shop warmed up where I like. 68F. Got flowers for tomorrow but used my head this time. Instead of running into town, I pre-ordered them on line, and delivery only cost 12 bucks! I was outside scraping ice on the areas where we have to walk when the delivery lady showed up so that went well.

Anyway I did tinker with that 1450 a while. These parts came in so plenty to do. Goal is still to get it running first, to be sure that it will move under its own power in both directions. Other issues like the steering box will wait until movement is confirmed. Here's the parts.
DSCN3008.JPG

Crankcase breather tube has me baffled. I got the breather cover gaskets because the lip of the old tube is visible inside it. Carb has no port to hook it too. Done quite a bit of parts manual studying but not much engine info in them. Need to do more net searching.

Took the fuel pump apart to put the diaphragm in and bad news. Not sure if it is rebuildable. Kit didn't have the little flapper and the check valve looking parts. Badly corroded. That is the reason why I ordered the new pump. It is a plastic pump but may work for a while.
DSCN3009.JPG DSCN3012.JPG

Then, attention got diverted again. Started the air compressor to blow out the parts and it took too long to pump up. It did finally shut off then I could hear a leak. Sprayed soapy water on it and the main female quick connect was leaking. Ok, I have a spare one. Drained the compressor and replaced it. Still took longer than normal to pump up. It shut down and still air seeping somewhere. Couldn't find anything with the soapy water. Had to drain it again, remove the new coupling and take off the cover. Long story short, it is the pressure switch diaphragm that's leaking. Might be time for a new switch. That one is pushing 50 years old on this 1973 Craftsman/Campbell-Hausfield. I'd love to get a new one but out of my budget right now. Didn't take it further apart yet as may need air for tires during this arctic cold snap.
DSCN3011.JPG DSCN3010.JPG

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
Ceiling fans help some too. Push that warm air back down where it belongs! I gave up the wood heat stuff many years ago, Noel. Glad you guys have a good system to stay warm!

Got it pretty nice out in the work bay today. Wasn't feeling the greatest until after noon. Got a shingles shot yesterday, right arm ache and just felt kind of sickly, moved pretty slow. It wore off faster than the first one at least! Arm is still achy but got house chores done while the shop warmed up where I like. 68F. Got flowers for tomorrow but used my head this time. Instead of running into town, I pre-ordered them on line, and delivery only cost 12 bucks! I was outside scraping ice on the areas where we have to walk when the delivery lady showed up so that went well.

Anyway I did tinker with that 1450 a while. These parts came in so plenty to do. Goal is still to get it running first, to be sure that it will move under its own power in both directions. Other issues like the steering box will wait until movement is confirmed. Here's the parts.
View attachment 34318

Crankcase breather tube has me baffled. I got the breather cover gaskets because the lip of the old tube is visible inside it. Carb has no port to hook it too. Done quite a bit of parts manual studying but not much engine info in them. Need to do more net searching.

Took the fuel pump apart to put the diaphragm in and bad news. Not sure if it is rebuildable. Kit didn't have the little flapper and the check valve looking parts. Badly corroded. That is the reason why I ordered the new pump. It is a plastic pump but may work for a while.
View attachment 34319 View attachment 34320

Then, attention got diverted again. Started the air compressor to blow out the parts and it took too long to pump up. It did finally shut off then I could hear a leak. Sprayed soapy water on it and the main female quick connect was leaking. Ok, I have a spare one. Drained the compressor and replaced it. Still took longer than normal to pump up. It shut down and still air seeping somewhere. Couldn't find anything with the soapy water. Had to drain it again, remove the new coupling and take off the cover. Long story short, it is the pressure switch diaphragm that's leaking. Might be time for a new switch. That one is pushing 50 years old on this 1973 Craftsman/Campbell-Hausfield. I'd love to get a new one but out of my budget right now. Didn't take it further apart yet as may need air for tires during this arctic cold snap.
View attachment 34326 View attachment 34327

DAC
Click to expand...
Doug, if it's anything like most of my JDs, there should be a hole in the air filter base plate under the carb intake hole, the breather tube goes into that hole.
 
Propane1 said:
The breather tube on my Ford goes into the air stream of the air cleaner, it comes into the air flow after the filter , then into the carb Doug.
Your a smart fella, getting the flowers like that, have a good day tomorrow.


Noel
Click to expand...

JDJake said:
Doug, if it's anything like most of my JDs, there should be a hole in the air filter base plate under the carb intake hole, the breather tube goes into that hole.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys! I shouldn't have said anything about that vent tube until I had the air cleaner housing. It arrived a day earlier than Kenny thought. Thanks again Kenny! There is a hole in it and the tube looks like it will be about 3 inches long from groove to groove.

Been a pretty messed up couple of days but did get a couple hours late this afternoon to tinker. I had to dig around for awhile to find screws to hold the air cleaner base to the carb, then dig up some 3/4"long- 5/16" bolts for the carb. Got the carb and fuel pump on, fitted governor linkage and mounted the air cleaner to get a look at how things fit. Will need to build and mount a choke cable.

That new carb came with a steel spacer but it was only notched for 1/4" bolts. Don't know if it is needed, went without and used the blue gasket.
DSCN3013.JPG

Got them mounted.
DSCN3017.JPG

The air cleaner housing will have to come back off but needed to see if things are gonna work!
DSCN3018.JPG

Cover mounted.
DSCN3019.JPG

Unfortunately the air filer elements I buy for the other two MF's won't fit.

Got to order a few more things but a little progress is good. It will take a couple more years to fire it up to see if the hydro and transaxle works at this rate, LOL!

DAC
 
Last edited:
The 14's and 16's take a little bigger filters Doug, especially the ones in the enclosed housings. They are a little bigger in diameter and a little deeper. Deere used the "pancake" filters in the 110's, 112's, 120's and 140's, when they went to the 200's, 300's and 400's they had enclosed housings. I have to keep track of 2 to 3 different filter numbers because of this.
 
JDJake said:
The 14's and 16's take a little bigger filters Doug, especially the ones in the enclosed housings. They are a little bigger in diameter and a little deeper. Deere used the "pancake" filters in the 110's, 112's, 120's and 140's, when they went to the 200's, 300's and 400's they had enclosed housings. I have to keep track of 2 to 3 different filter numbers because of this.
Click to expand...
I converted both of the others to use the filter element that was stock with the HH120 that used to be in the MF12G. Good price buying 5 at a time, Jake! The 12G has a 13 HP Honda clone in it and the 8E has a HS100 Tec that never had an air filter. Would have been nice if all 3 were the same, but Kenny posted a link a while back for the one that fits!

DAC
 
JDJake said:
I'll give you a tip Doug, when you go to put the base plate on and go to put the breather tube in, you'll find needle nose pliers are your friend. Also, pay attention to the length, I had a couple that were too long.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my fat fingers ain't getting in there, Jake. Looks like stuff it in the breather, install the base on the carb, then fish it into the hole with needle nose. Darnnear as dumb design to work on as that Camry I just got rid of---LOL.

Looks like 3" groove to groove will fit.

DAC
 
Another tip for you, when you go to put the plate on, tip the bottom towards the motor and line the breather tube up with the hole, the very tip of the tube should almost protrude out of the hole. Then, take your needle nosed pliers and pull the tube the rest of the way in till you get the tube seated. You have to kind of hold the plate in place while doing this. Lastly, tip the rest of the plate against the carb and install the screws.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top