MF 1450

[Toomanytoys84]

I’ve heard of copper coat stuff before. But have never used it. I have heard of making a gasket out of sheet copper. And it may boost compression a bit because it’s thinner than the normal gasket.
More rambling.

Noel

it’ll help promote sealing from what I’ve been told. But I’m not sure. I can’t verify it does or doesn’t. I bought a can in 2000 when I did a head gasket on my Pontiac sunfire. I still have that can and give a little spray on any small engine head I do.

 

[MFDAC]

You guys ramble all you want! Now and then it feels like, why post all this stuff about trying to get this pile of sh** tractor useable? I wish I had the time to check in and comment several times a day., plus I have no knoweldge about anything but my own junk, and most of the time, I need advice anyway! It ain't in the cards right now to check in until a lot of you are getting ready to hit the sack. I worked 8 hours overtime today too for the extra money. Guess there is really no such thing as "extra money" though.

Aaron was right on about what I used on the head gasket.


Got it torqued on. Noel, I used a straightedge in various positions on the head and it looked flat to me, just used a scotchbrite to polish it up on the gasket surfaces. I think the sheet of glass sanding idea is very good idea!


Then I got the 1000* epoxy and the shim installed on that broken exhaust fitting. I'll sand it smooth after it cures up hard.


Then, I went ahead and modified that muffler. I wasn't real confident welding it but it came out ok. I figured that I would be filling holes since thinner metals and I have issues. Got it painted with some BBQ grill paint too.


I appreciate EVERY comment, wether it be ideas, criticism, information, or "rambling"! I don't have any other forum to go to any more so this place is home.

DAC

EDIT. I tried to quote you folks but it didn't work right.

 

[Cvans]

Your making good headway. Won't be long and you'll be looking for another project.

 

[KennyP]

Looks like you are moving right along.

 

[MFDAC]

Your making good headway. Won't be long and you'll be looking for another project.

Looks like you are moving right along.

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

I don't have to look far for projects, Chris, I have them backed up all over in and outside of the shop!

Gained a little more today.

Sanded the 1000* epoxy and test fitted the muffler. That epoxy seems rock hard. I was skeptical since it is not 2 part. What's left in the jar still seems to be ok to use again. Muffler looks to fit fine now, but the support bracket doesn't aim toward anything usable so will have to re-think that. Haven't tried to fit the housing yet either. That may take a bunch of work too.


Trimmed the right front engine mount plate, fitted it and welded that in place. After it cooled the rubber mount got installed. Used steel pop rivets. Also ground off the rivets holding in the mount plate where the tore up rubber was on the left rear of the engine. Then cleaned up the mount plates that will bolt to the engine and checked them for fit. Looks like they are supposed to be there.


DAC

 

[Propane1]

I was gunna suggest a sequence to tighten the head bolts the other day. But you already had them in. Wouldn’t hurt to recheck the torque again.
You’ll have to come here an do my engine Doug. I can seem to git off me behind to get at it. Bring the 55 with you so you can leave it here.

Noel

 

[KennyP]

Just for your info on that muffler (it's a Cub Cadet replacement), I took a screenshot from the SM so you can see how they attached the support bracket.

 

[CRF6179]

If I remember correctly, We had a small John Deere G,T. that had a similar system for mounting the engine. One of the improvements was to weld a plate between the mounting brackets. Just make sure it clears the bottom of the engine and drain plug if there is one on the bottom.
Just an idea for you.
I'll have to check with big (older) brother (Trail95) to find out which J.D. it was.

 

[CRF6179]

Checked with Trail95. He doesn't remember any better than I do.
It might have been a Massey, or a Case.

 

[IHCubCadet147]

If I remember correctly, We had a small John Deere G,T. that had a similar system for mounting the engine. One of the improvements was to weld a plate between the mounting brackets. Just make sure it clears the bottom of the engine and drain plug if there is one on the bottom.
Just an idea for you.
I'll have to check with big (older) brother (Trail95) to find out which J.D. it was.

That is a common upgrade on the Quietline series Cub Cadets, they have a similar setup. I did it on my 1450 when I got it.

 

[CRF6179]

That is a common upgrade on the Quietline series Cub Cadets, they have a similar setup. I did it on my 1450 when I got it.
View attachment 49089View attachment 49090

Good grief yes! Now that you jogged my memory it was a Cub cadet, about 10 years ago!!!
In fact it was this one from 2011. (MAYBE)

 

[MFDAC]

If I remember correctly, We had a small John Deere G,T. that had a similar system for mounting the engine. One of the improvements was to weld a plate between the mounting brackets. Just make sure it clears the bottom of the engine and drain plug if there is one on the bottom.
Just an idea for you.
I'll have to check with big (older) brother (Trail95) to find out which J.D. it was.

That is a common upgrade on the Quietline series Cub Cadets, they have a similar setup. I did it on my 1450 when I got it.
View attachment 49089View attachment 49090

Good grief yes! Now that you jogged my memory it was a Cub cadet, about 10 years ago!!!
In fact it was this one from 2011. (MAYBE)

Great info, Rick and IHCub! Thanks! Right now, I think the only place I may be able to run a cross plate would be clear at the blower housing end, and not sure about that yet. The oil pan hangs below tront to back and if I put a plate at the front, it would block a mule drive location if I get one some day. This engine is a "Q" series Kohler, so probably very similar. I have doubts it is original to the tractor so it might be the same. The MF1450 service manual does show the engine like this though.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

Just for your info on that muffler (it's a Cub Cadet replacement), I took a screenshot from the SM so you can see how they attached the support bracket.
View attachment 49076

That is a great picture, Kenny and it raises a lot of questions for me. The Cub muffler looks to be at an angle if viewed from the front. Looks like there is an elbow down on the exhaust nipple from the engine. That muffler is turned 90* clockwise from the position mine is at so the bracket and the inlet are both facing upward. It is interesting that the blower housing side extensions only go about half way.

Now, Can I eliminate all this muffler housing crap? The aluminum or pot metal piece that bolts to the block has cracks and the steel cover had been torched for the junk muffler I took off the tractor. More P.O. butchery.


I can still mount the blower housing side panels and they cover more of the cylinder fins than the one in the Cub engine picture.


If I can do that, then I have access to the stud on the head bolt and a bolt hole on the back of the block to mount a support for the discharge end of the muffler. Is this a valid idea? I have to remind everyone that this is far from being an original tractor. Modifications have been the name of the game since I got this thing. The concern is function, not originality.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

I did do a "cosmetic" thing tonight too, believe it or not---LOL!

Scuffed, cleaned, primered and painted the inside of the engine area. It will make it nicer to do the engine installation and run new control cables. I ordered the cables today, so there's another thing slowing my progress. Should have ordered some a long time ago. I will give the engine a coat of satin black before it goes in the tractor also.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

I was gunna suggest a sequence to tighten the head bolts the other day. But you already had them in. Wouldn’t hurt to recheck the torque again.
You’ll have to come here an do my engine Doug. I can seem to git off me behind to get at it. Bring the 55 with you so you can leave it here.

Noel

I had the sequence printed out of the service manual, Noel. I went through the sequence a couple times, but after the engine has been heated up I'll probably go through them again.

My problem with driving the '55 up to your place to help build that engine is a simple one, no passport---LOL! Sorry, no intentions of getting one either. My wife nags me to get one so we can go to Eruope or some nonsense. I have no Idea where she thinks the money would come from for a trip of that magnitude!

Do you have any advice on engine break-in if I ever get to that point?

DAC

 

[Propane1]

I run them at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes Doug. That would be a good time to retorque the head bolts after it cools down after doing that first run.
What I was going to suggest about tightening the head bolts was, I torque the bolts to say 15 or so pounds, leave it for half hour, then go to say 23 pound, leave half hour then do the final torque. Then recheck in half hour. Just the way I do it. Everybody has their own method.

Noel

 

[SimplyRad]

Doug if your block had a hole drilled and rapped down as in a pic I am going to post and the bracket to support the muffler. Pic was too large to upload.

Pic of bracket.

 

[Propane1]

You and I are the same Doug, I have no passport and doubt I’ll ever get one. As far as travel to Europe, not gunna happen. Not safe to go any where there.

Noel

 

[MFDAC]

I run them at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes Doug. That would be a good time to retorque the head bolts after it cools down after doing that first run.
What I was going to suggest about tightening the head bolts was, I torque the bolts to say 15 or so pounds, leave it for half hour, then go to say 23 pound, leave half hour then do the final torque. Then recheck in half hour. Just the way I do it. Everybody has their own method.

Noel

Sounds good to me, Noel. Just using 30 wt, or 10-30? I torqued the head to 20, then 30. Probably only 10 minutes or so in between. Not on purpose though. Had a interruption. I probably would have done it right after the first round!

Doug if your block had a hole drilled and rapped down as in a pic I am going to post and the bracket to support the muffler. Pic was too large to upload.

Pic of bracket.
View attachment 49145

That engine looks identical to mine, Rad! Is this your tractor? Can see the muffler shroud or housing has been eliminated like I'm thinking of doing. It does have a bolt hole down toward the bottom of the fins. I was thinking about a triangulated mount on the other end from the muffler inlet. One leg coming from the bolt hole you are referring too and one from the stud that bracket at the top of the picture is mounted on. Both going to the existing mount on the muffler.

Thanks for the comments!

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

You and I are the same Doug, I have no passport and doubt I’ll ever get one. As far as travel to Europe, not gunna happen. Not safe to go any where there.

Noel

Wouldn't be able to understand anyone speaking either, Noel! I'm too damm old to learn another language, or even mess with translating. Of course my hearing is so bad, my wife pretty much translates for me anyway---LOL!

DAC