Need a Garden Tractor
- Thread starter Lawdawg79
- Start date
Since you ran it out of gas it is very possible that some crud got sucked into the carb so a good cleaning will likely resolve the issue. Congrats and Good Luck
I went over the posts this morning and had an observation, the majority of experience here as lance also referred to is in some way or another on a track of diagnosing "Fuel Starvation". Propane was getting there too with hydro-lock, or lack of air to replace liquid volume through gravity. Carbs have a vent to atmosphere too.
I wonder what you might find if you get the tractor running full and observe the fuel filter, would it be full or mostly full at the point the motor dies? If you did the same thing but cut power while at full throttle and take the spark plug out immediately, would that plug be wet? If the motor is sputtering and you jiggle the filter would it have a noticeable effect? With the cap off? with the air filter off?
When or if you take that carb off you can spray lube such as wd40 or ? and if it has dye in it even better to check the passages and see if they aren't restricted or blocked. If you choose to rebuild, you might try resetting your high and low to factory settings.
If you haven't adjusted a carb before, factory setting will usually allow the motor to run, if it doesn't there are other problems.
lawdawg, in my own personal experience, if I ignore obvious signs and power through a problem at night, it usually ends up costing me the most money with less than favorable results....and yet I still find myself doing it, crazy right?
I think you found a good tractor, and after you work through the ignored problems from it's past will have a great tractor. Can't wait to see what it can do for you.
Cheers
Main nozzle emulation tube I believe?
What number is on that carb? Is it a Tecumseh?
and wow! fast, dug right in, I respect that.
This old manual may help at least with the carb if it is a tecumseh
can't help notice the simalarities with this walbro
That Walbro I think is in that Tecumseh manual too, looks very similiar.
That center hole is where the bolt to hold the carb bowl on goes.
Not sure what the needle looks like but if it's rubber tipped make sure it's not swelled from ethanol gas and getting stuck not opening.
Well I went up to the only place that would have these parts.. and wouldn't you know it, they were out of the needles and the gaskets.
I came home found a suitable replacement gasket from another carb, cleaned everything up reassembled it with originalparts, and it won't start.
Remove the points cover sprayed down with WD-40 cuz there was a tiny bit of water in there from when i cleaned. Slid some paper in between the points too.
Also, They wanted $8 for the gasket and I can get a whole new carburetor with gaskets and everything for 20 bucks off Amazon...
But anywho, I pushed it around the house and into the garage. After that my back is killing me and I am done for the day. Hot, sweaty, and tired and she won't start again lol....ugh
Thanks for the help so far fellas, we're going to get her fired up soon enough...
I came home found a suitable replacement gasket from another carb, cleaned everything up reassembled it with originalparts, and it won't start.
Remove the points cover sprayed down with WD-40 cuz there was a tiny bit of water in there from when i cleaned. Slid some paper in between the points too.
Also, They wanted $8 for the gasket and I can get a whole new carburetor with gaskets and everything for 20 bucks off Amazon...
But anywho, I pushed it around the house and into the garage. After that my back is killing me and I am done for the day. Hot, sweaty, and tired and she won't start again lol....ugh
Thanks for the help so far fellas, we're going to get her fired up soon enough...
I'm betting it's ignition issues. Have you checked the spark with a spark plug connected to coil wire? If it's a no spark, then likely points or bad coil. If it's a lazy red spark, then likely a failing condenser or failing coil. The spark should have some blue in it. Jut red and it hasn't enough power to spark under compression. Also, if no spark, be sure the plunger is pushing the points. I have had points plungers hang up and required cleaning and in some cases some emery cloth to clean the plunger (push pin) free of varnish. To see if it's a simple carb issue, spray a shot of carb spray into the intake, as if all else is good except the carb, it should fire off with the carb spray. I use carb spray instead of starting fluid as it is easier on the engine as it's burns rather than kind of exploding, especially with hot engines. But then your engine won't be hot!
I have never really worked on a engine like that. So, does the coil has two outlets? One for each cylinder.?? And do they spark for each cylinder at power stroke or do they both spark at the same time. If it sparks at the power stroke for each cylinder, how does it do that. Distrubutor of some sort ?
Could a regular 12 volt car coil be hooked up to both cylinders and see if it runs.
Just putting thoughts out there.
Noel.
Could a regular 12 volt car coil be hooked up to both cylinders and see if it runs.
Just putting thoughts out there.
Noel.
I believe that the main jet is up on the side of the carb body on these. I've got one somewhere in storage that I can try to find. If he could give us a picture of the complete carb, it would help. He hasn't said whether he's getting fuel from the pump while cranking. How did the bowl look when he took it apart to clean? I'm like you Daniel I'd try to see if it fires on carb cleaner or a small shot of gas to make sure it's getting good spark.
You can see both the low and high idle jet needles in this photo.
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Noel, it uses a 2 post coil and it fires both cylinders at the same time. Lots of guys have used Harley coils when they're oem coil dies because of the cost of the Harley coil is cheaper than a Kohler or Onan coil.
Never tried it, not sure if the single post coil is strong enough to fire both plugs at the same time.
Don't put much faith on the$20 carbs. You get what you pay for. If there's any way you can boil out the original one or soak it in something, try to clean up that one and run it. It would be better to find a #26 Kohler carb like some of those engines came with then rebuild that one
I have seen those walbro carbs with 0,1,or 2 mixture screws. The ones with 2 mixture screws seem to be the lesser of evils among the walbros. All take the same kit as each other.
I have 2 KT engines, both with Kohler style carbs. On the 2nd one I got supposed to be seized so I figutrd on swapping a M18 that I have here before I knew the original one wasn't FUBAR like the past owner thought. I borrowed the carb from that KT and bolted it onto the M18 and it ran great. I put the walbro back on and it didn't want to run. I have since soaked it in an ultrasonic cleaner and keep forgetting to pickup a new kit for it to try it again.
I have seen those walbro carbs with 0,1,or 2 mixture screws. The ones with 2 mixture screws seem to be the lesser of evils among the walbros. All take the same kit as each other.
I have 2 KT engines, both with Kohler style carbs. On the 2nd one I got supposed to be seized so I figutrd on swapping a M18 that I have here before I knew the original one wasn't FUBAR like the past owner thought. I borrowed the carb from that KT and bolted it onto the M18 and it ran great. I put the walbro back on and it didn't want to run. I have since soaked it in an ultrasonic cleaner and keep forgetting to pickup a new kit for it to try it again.
If your Walbro doesn't have two external jets, I would definetely recommend a Kohler carb. I had a Walbro on my Ingersoll 3014 and made the switch. It's starts and runs so much better.