NTM Case 224
- Thread starter KennyP
- Start date
I have 2 with priming levers, but need rebuilt. Never seen a kit for any of these.
When riding this yesterday, I noticed the Travel Control Lever has 2 notches in both travel directions (FWD & REV). When I moved it back to Neutral, the tractor stopped abruptly, no need to brake. Also, if I was in the outside 'notch' and moved the lever to the inner one, it slowed real quick. Not working as the manual states, but works real good for slowing the motion. This also has the Hi/Low range rear axle. And it will go 9.4 MPH in reverse. 
LOL It won't 'freewheel' to push unless the axle is in Neutral.
Need to grease everything. The seat seem a bit low to me, may make some spacers to raise it up.
LOL It won't 'freewheel' to push unless the axle is in Neutral.Need to grease everything. The seat seem a bit low to me, may make some spacers to raise it up.
I had a 224 and now have a 448.
My 1982 224 had hydraulic lift, maybe the first ones didnt.
You should feel a few slight notches in the travel control lever for speed control.
They are a little scarey going down hill without a holding valve (neither of mine have it)
It should have whats called "retard", meaning if you are about half throttle coming down a hill, lower the speed slightly and it helps keep it slowed down.
If you pull it to neutral...mine will lock up the tires.
It takes getting use to.
The brake was really only meant for parking.
One of these days i will change out my hydraulic control valve for one with a built in holding valve.
They also made a separate holding valve that could be plumbed in.
For tilling, there is a flow control valve that would help with the ground speed problem.
Hope this helps.
Tony
My 1982 224 had hydraulic lift, maybe the first ones didnt.
You should feel a few slight notches in the travel control lever for speed control.
They are a little scarey going down hill without a holding valve (neither of mine have it)
It should have whats called "retard", meaning if you are about half throttle coming down a hill, lower the speed slightly and it helps keep it slowed down.
If you pull it to neutral...mine will lock up the tires.
It takes getting use to.
The brake was really only meant for parking.
One of these days i will change out my hydraulic control valve for one with a built in holding valve.
They also made a separate holding valve that could be plumbed in.
For tilling, there is a flow control valve that would help with the ground speed problem.
Hope this helps.
Tony
Thanks Tony! It's a new experience for me.
Hi Kenny
Many Kohler fuel pumps are discarded because of leaking. the problem is the aluminum housings warp from heat. I take them apart remove diaphragm a put each half in the vise and draw file them flat again. and reinstall diaphragm or the rubber part. I clean the rubber with Awesome orange from dollar tree. By draw filing
you take file with both hands laying on casting filing away from you. I have repaired many and have and haves not found a bad rubber. I bought a Carburetor leak Detector from Pat's parts. It is a hand air pump it go's to 10psi . It is good for checking needle and seats. I use it on the fuel pumps. I plug outlet and pump up from inlet about 5lbs and spray outside with Awesome Orange and you can see where it is leaking and you can check again after repair. I was told about this a the portland In tractor show and it works.
Many Kohler fuel pumps are discarded because of leaking. the problem is the aluminum housings warp from heat. I take them apart remove diaphragm a put each half in the vise and draw file them flat again. and reinstall diaphragm or the rubber part. I clean the rubber with Awesome orange from dollar tree. By draw filing
you take file with both hands laying on casting filing away from you. I have repaired many and have and haves not found a bad rubber. I bought a Carburetor leak Detector from Pat's parts. It is a hand air pump it go's to 10psi . It is good for checking needle and seats. I use it on the fuel pumps. I plug outlet and pump up from inlet about 5lbs and spray outside with Awesome Orange and you can see where it is leaking and you can check again after repair. I was told about this a the portland In tractor show and it works.
I could find that site in a search, Jake, but when clicking on the link to the site it says "site unavailable" unfortunately. I searched quite a bit last night for full rebuild kits for the fuel pump and all just showed the diaphrgam and block gasket. No "flapper" valves or any other parts.
DAC
Just seen the same today Doug, don't know if they are doing maintenance on the page or not. Maybe have to see if they have a physical address and E-mail. They do have a Facebook page.
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Most issues are the diaphragm leaking fuel into the crankcase. Don't know if this old pump would use the same one. But I will keep your fix in mind.
The last pic in post #15 above is of the fuel pump. It leaked from every gasket, even peed out the bottom. Never seen one like this before, but got lucky looking through the parts manual. Found the #'s for the kit for it and found one on ebay. It should arrive today. Pics to follow!
The first notch on the speed control is for going down steep inclines. It will hold back and goes very slow. Free wheeling on hills is an issue with the early tractors until they made a holding valve.
I have disconnected the original fuel pumps and replaced them with low pressure electric pumps. Instant starting and no chance of fuel getting into the crankcase due to bad seals in the original pump.
I have disconnected the original fuel pumps and replaced them with low pressure electric pumps. Instant starting and no chance of fuel getting into the crankcase due to bad seals in the original pump.
I have an electric pump on it now. Starts real easy using it. May leave it that way and use this fuel pump elsewhere.
Got to the shop and took the pump apart:
Used a file to see how warped the housing was:
Got out the glass and 400 grit Wet/Dry sandpaper. A little soapy water and went to work. Looks better now.
Checked the other part, it needed work also.
On to the top part:
Kit arrived.
Installed the new valves:
See next post!
Used a file to see how warped the housing was:
Got out the glass and 400 grit Wet/Dry sandpaper. A little soapy water and went to work. Looks better now.
Checked the other part, it needed work also.
On to the top part:
Kit arrived.
Installed the new valves:
See next post!
I'm using a JD 54" blade cylinder.