Picked up these two Sears today....

Lance, there has been a lot of misinformation that has been written or you have been told.

First to Larry, if you have a manual tranny, it never came out of a Craftsman FF, all the FF tractors were hydro. There was the GT16 and GT18 that looked identical to the FF tractors (although smaller), that is probably what your transaxle came out of.


Next, Roper made most of the Sears garden tractors from 1966 to 1980 the compact/custom/ suburban lines. Roper bought out David Bradley in 64 and changed the design for the 66 model year.

Sears started using SS nameplate in the late 60's which just meant extras on the tractor i.e. wood grain dash, wider wheels, longer floor boards, etc.
In 1973, they added the ST badge which designated the tractors as a single cyl with a Tecumseh.
The SS badge was then use to designate tractor was a twin Onan.
1977 was a single year using the badges 16/6 (single with overhead 16Hp Tecumseh) , 16/6 Twin and 18/6 Twin using the Onans.
1978- 1980 the badging went to GT16/18/19.9.
The 16 was the first year for a new Briggs twin engine (I think it was in 78), 1 year only for the twin Briggs until the 80's. 18's were both single Tec and Twin Onan and the 19.9 was the Onan.
For the 1981 year, Electrolux/Roper built the tractors until 1989 when Roper was sold and ended up being the AYP brand.

The transaxle were made by AYP/Peerless company. They were always designated as a "peerless 633" model, not sure where your collector came up with 632. Hubs switched from keyed to splined somewhere in the mid 70's.

The 18 hp looks to be dated in 1979 from motor tag so most likely that is a 1979 GT 18.
The "big block" 19.9 Onans were only made for the 1978 year so you would have a 78 GT19.9. Also with the French writing, that was made specifically for Canada.


Sadly, several websites that had tons of history and info have disappeared so many are trying to keep it pieced together from what we remember.
 
been busy so I havent made much progress yet, have the gt18 in the shop trying to trace an electrical issue... it will start and run but dies as soon as I disconnect the charger... I dont have a battery in it yet, just because I dont have one that fits right now, but it should run without one. Stator reads 24v at low rpm and there is continuity from the regulator so hopefully its just a wiring issue somewhere. I dont expect to have this gt18 ready before the snow flies but wanted to get it fired up and have an idea what all it needs... I'd prefer to started on the gt19.9 over the winter and have it ready for sale in the spring.... this of course assuming that both tractors will in fact run and drive, and I wont know that until I get the 19.9 in the shop... if either tractor has any major issues I will need to rethink my plan.
 
I dont recall if I ever tried another Onan without a battery but most any tractor Ive worked on I know will run without a battery, any Kohler or Briggs... dont seem normal to me but I need to get a battery anyway so I'll start there.... and look for a wiring diagram... and a can of engine degreaser ;)
 
but.... kohlers and Briggs both have AC coming from the stator thats converted to DC by a similar regulator and they will run without a battery??? Lol

I dunno... its got me scratching my head but Im sure I'll get it figured out.
 
but.... kohlers and Briggs both have AC coming from the stator thats converted to DC by a similar regulator and they will run without a battery??? Lol

I dunno... its got me scratching my head but Im sure I'll get it figured out.
Could be a bad connection somewhere!
 
ok so I had the 19.9 running today and it wont stay running without a battery connected either so maybe its just how these tractors are wired... I'll need to do a little more research.... BUT... both tractors do run and drive...HappyHappy

It depends on if coil is getting its feed from the battery or directly from regulator through the ignition switch.
On my single Suburbans, the feed from the regulator goes through the ignition switch through the ammeter then connects to where the hot from the battery is connected back to the positive on the battery. You will need to check and see where your coil feeds from and then go from there.
 
'IF' this was happening on just one tractor I could see it being a bad connection or ignition switch but since both tractors appear to have the same issue I think it more likely that they are wiring differantly than what Im used to seeing... think Ive only owned two other Onans and may not have tested them without the battery.

Anyway.... I strapped a battery onto the back yesterday and drove the 19.9 around a bit... no brakes and the rubber band clutch isnt fully dis-engaging so its tricky to change gears without grinding... most likely just a minor adjustment issue on the belt. It sputtered a few times at high rpm so I will run some Seafoam thru it and if it doesnt clear up I will probably need to pull the carb for a good cleaning like most any engine that hasnt been run for awhile. I tried to pull the harrows on the driveway but then it sputtered more so I put those away. Steers easily and all the gears work, started out with two headlights and one tailight but one headlight didnt last long, hour meter appears to be working.

Overall it looks to be a good project to tinker on over the winter ;)
 
Thx Kenny... I saw that diagram over at GTT earlier today but there is some people working in the yard with a backhoe and they managed to dig up a powerline this am so I havent been on the computer all day.... I hope the landlady isnt paying these guys much.... they also wrecked the entrance gate bringin' that same backhoe in here. They were hired to dig a trench from the well to a corral in the back 9 to water the horses... they will be losing money very soon at this rate.... but power and water are both back on... for nowLolol
 
So now that Ive learned these Onans do in fact need a battery connected to run Ive decided to bring the GT18 back into the shop and look at how the snowblower is supposed to engage... it uses a foot control on the right side that currently doesnt seem to be attached to anything. I just pulled the blower belt off when I was testing the motor. Im thinking that If I can get all the basics working I May be able to sell the 18 as is for about $500... if not I'll put it back in storage and work on cleaning it up before next fall... and double the price of course ;)

I took the 3pt off the 18 with the plan of installing that onto the 19.9, it is currently missing the top link but I can make that easily enough... Ive had a Sears cultivator for years that Ive used with the Columbia but I think Im ready to retire from gardening so that would be a nice option on the 19.9. Plus I have an extra pair of Duro Red Eagle rear tires on rims that I know pull that cultivator quite well. The cultivator actually pulls downward on the tractor when the shovels are in the dirt so it wont require any additional ballast.

I also swapped the seats on the two tractors. Only one seat, which was on the 18, flips forward to gain better access to the fuel filler but it needs alot of work, the no-flip seat just has a couple rips that need some black duct tape so that will look better on the 18 IF I do get any tire kickers.

Its a No School Bus day so I have time to drink an extra coffee and think out load. ;)
 
Removed the blower from the 18 today and noticed it had a couple bolts and bushings missing... and pto engage control rod is missing a key clip... so I think it will be in working order once it is reassembled. Biggest job was degreasing the engine.. hopefully now will be able to see where and how bad it is leaking.

013.JPG014.JPG
 
Only chains on my tractors are the ones wrapped around the stump ;)

the Duro tires were on my Columbia until a couple years ago when I got the Carlisle XTR radials that are on it now.... the Duro worked well enough even in the winter but the radials do ride softer.

pic shows the Duro tires and my Sears cultivator that I can include with the 19.9 if a buyer is interested.

041.JPG
 
Last edited:
Seems kind of odd to me that this gt18 hasnt sold.... I advertised it locally a week ago for $500 and havent had a single call, it needs some tlc but it is turnkey, runs drives and has a blower. BUT.... our economy is the dumps, ever since this pandemic crap started.... prices going up, everything on back order..... but it seems nobody has money to spend... I blame the govt.

I have straightened out the blower and have it properly mounted since this pic so it works now, nice little tractor to drive actually, it just looks bad.Lol

010.JPG
 
$400 for that carb kit? A few years ago when I last worked on one I think I paid like ~$110 for a kit and a float. And for what was included in the kit I thought I was getting ripped off at that. And no, they didn't offer a kit that came with the float, that was extra
 
Back
Top