What are you currently working on??

After a day of fun this week, and a nice sun set yesterday, it warmed up nicely and I was able to clean Old Girl up. No worse for wear, and really needed the exercise!
 

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QA42 thrower is back together and mounted on the 1560 CC. Light rain with cold WNW wind this morning. Nothing in the shop today.
 
Got out about noon to start splitting (a little chilly before). Got a bunch split and stacked (4 loads on the JD fork lift). And who says you need power steering? Just good wheel brakes!
View attachment 33277 View attachment 33276

Got a decent pile left to split and stack before I cut more. Trying to get 3 rick (cord), that should run me through the winter.
Looking good Kenny. That is the size I like mine split also. Carolyn will keep the rack by the fireplace full that way. Bigger she lets me do it. -- LOL
 
I really dislike replacing small tires and rims :mad:
My son had a split inner tube in his Yamaha 90 dirt bike, I could not for the life of me get the tire off one side to replace tube, some how he pulled the tube up and out some and tire was jammed on the rim. I told him I could not get it off, that he needed to take it somewhere. Somehow he heard " buy a new tire, cut the old one off, and I will put the new tire and tube on"...so he did. I attempted it and in normal fashion with his dirt bikes, I cut the new tube. Neither of us ever have luck with his dirt bike inner tubes.
Then on to replacing the tail wheel tires on our church grasshopper, one of the guys blew a tire and bent one of the rims on the tail wheels. Bought a new one off evilbay, ends up they used 2 different sizes and I got the wrong one. So I went ahead to swap the new tire on the other wheel. What a bear and we used slime in it so that was fun too. After wrestling for 30 mins or so, finally got it mounted. Now to search for another used rim to replace the bent one.
 
Still no tractor work but did get my wife's '06 GMC Denali serviced (oil change, lube zirks ck fluids) and tires rotated. Then I brought in the old '95 Camry for the same thing. Water in the oil! I had a sneaking idea that the head gasket may be leaking as I had to add coolant a couple times in the last year. Went ahead and finished the oil change so It could be driven out of the shop. Ordered a head gasket set. Just as well try to keep the old thing running until scrap prices go up---LOL!

Did that stuff with no h@!$t Noel!

Drove the '55 around a bit today too, took my waste oil to the recycle tank at work.

DAC
 
No tractors need work. But I did work on button up the engine swap, belt drive install, and motor spacers on the coleman minibike. Finalized everything and installed the new suspension front end. Next will he to tear it all down so I can get it powder coated. Purple frame and pink blower shroud. Adeline picked the color combo.

Its a little ripper now. Intake kit, header, jet kit, bullet flywheel, and stiffer valve springs. Itll run 44mph and throw me off from a dead stop.
 
Did that stuff with no h@!$t Noel!

Drove the '55 around a bit today too, took my waste oil to the recycle tank at work.

DAC


Ya, but you waaannnt one thou Doug. Hehe.

Good to drive the 55 around.

Should check the head and block to make sure they are not warped while doing the head gasket.

Noel
 
Have to rebuild the back drive shaft coupler on the IH 1650. Bearing went out and sheard the pin on the input shaft at the hydro. Won't be to big a job but at 18° F this morning was not the day. At least I got the drive blew out before it let go and was headed down grade to the shop.
 
I have a Cub 1200 taht I will probably wind up doing that to along with the rest of teh driveline, it vibrates like He11..... clutch was done probably 15 years ago along with urethane GM car sway bar link bushings for motor mounts.... and before I knew anything about the cradle mod.
It was actually pretty good, and all of a sudden one day last summer it started shaking itself to death. Been sitting since since it's not the only GT in the barn.
 
I put a Briggs in this one as I had no motor at all when I got it. rolling frame with snow thrower attached. Mounted the Briggs solid to the frame as they don't vibrate & shake like a Kohler does. Don't know what happened at the back end. No clutch on this one as it is hydro. Easy to get at from the top. Might find out tomorrow. My main snow thrower so kind of need it going yet this winter. 2 months of snow possibly yet.
 
Did that stuff with no h@!$t Noel!

Drove the '55 around a bit today too, took my waste oil to the recycle tank at work.

DAC


Ya, but you waaannnt one thou Doug. Hehe.

Good to drive the 55 around.

Should check the head and block to make sure they are not warped while doing the head gasket.

Noel

Oh yeah I'm still jealous of you guys h@!$t but my brother in law beats everyone! He has 6 four post hoists with the jack kits and all that to make them useable for tire, brake and things like that too. Yeah he's done well for himself! He has 2 hot rods for each one plus a couple more of them too. One on the hoist, raise it up and park another one under it!

The '55 drove just fine, but I need to get a new light switch. Last time I drove it to work, the headlights went out a couple times. Was able to determine it is the switch not loose connections.

Yup, if the head is warped the car may go to scrap anyway. It's not worth putting a lot of cash into. Block is cast iron so hopefully the deck is ok.

Got a brief update to put in the trailer thread I started a while back.

DAC
 
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finally got my $40 piece of 3" copper drain. could not find it anywhere. I took out the toilet flange in the 1/2 bathroom a while ago (before I got hit with whatever it was that made me sleep all day, that I wasn't coughing my head off) so I could replace subfloor and add ceramic tile. Heated and unsweated the piece closest to floor at the tee. It ended up getting crushed like a beer can. needed 10". Went to every plumbing shop in the 35 mile trip between home and work. nobody had any, knew where to get any copper 3", everyone and their brother told me to go plastic. I looked at Lowes, Menards, plus a handful of other places for a Fernco type coupler to go from copper drain to plastic. Looked at Fernco website. Absolutely no luck. I am NOT digging the line to the septic D tank in January, to replace it all with plastic. especially when there is nothing wrong with the rest of it. Id looked at Ebay/ and when I saw that everyone wanted ~$3 per INCH, I thought that was ridiculous. so I kept looking locally. My son said his neighbor worked with some "pretty weird stuff" at his work, he said he'd ask him.
While in the hospital with his wife when she popped out my 1st grandkid, he told me he had some coming, later told me he got it from Ebay... (shake head/ roll eyes) Put that in today, wow/ that was so much easier than trying to adapt/convert anything..... just cant figure out why 3" copper is so hard to find. alot of headache and PITA, for not quite 10" of pipe.... I have about 2-1/4-3" left, that I will never use... anyone need it? (haha)

I have been here 22 years, and I know we haven't used this bathroom as much as the main. House is as old as me, been here since '67.
About 5-6 years ago I did have to dig out the line from the main bathroom to the other end of the D tank and replace it, as it rotted off right at the foundation. at least it was good weather and not frozen ground at that time. that did get replaced with PVC at the time. this end shows no signs of that happening.... nothing feeds the drain at this end except the 1/2 bath.... the whole rest of the house (full bath and kitchen, plus clothes washer and dish washer) uses the drain at the other end of the D- tank.

(yeah guys come back with "did I try here or go there, or "I had that problem and used this coupler".... lots of aggravation, for that 1 piece of pipe, it's fixed now.) If the site had it, Id be giving out alot of "thumbs down" for those that do.
 
finally got my $40 piece of 3" copper drain. could not find it anywhere. I took out the toilet flange in the 1/2 bathroom a while ago (before I got hit with whatever it was that made me sleep all day, that I wasn't coughing my head off) so I could replace subfloor and add ceramic tile. Heated and unsweated the piece closest to floor at the tee. It ended up getting crushed like a beer can. needed 10". Went to every plumbing shop in the 35 mile trip between home and work. nobody had any, knew where to get any copper 3", everyone and their brother told me to go plastic. I looked at Lowes, Menards, plus a handful of other places for a Fernco type coupler to go from copper drain to plastic. Looked at Fernco website. Absolutely no luck. I am NOT digging the line to the septic D tank in January, to replace it all with plastic. especially when there is nothing wrong with the rest of it. Id looked at Ebay/ and when I saw that everyone wanted ~$3 per INCH, I thought that was ridiculous. so I kept looking locally. My son said his neighbor worked with some "pretty weird stuff" at his work, he said he'd ask him.
While in the hospital with his wife when she popped out my 1st grandkid, he told me he had some coming, later told me he got it from Ebay... (shake head/ roll eyes) Put that in today, wow/ that was so much easier than trying to adapt/convert anything..... just cant figure out why 3" copper is so hard to find. alot of headache and PITA, for not quite 10" of pipe.... I have about 2-1/4-3" left, that I will never use... anyone need it? (haha)

I have been here 22 years, and I know we haven't used this bathroom as much as the main. House is as old as me, been here since '67.
About 5-6 years ago I did have to dig out the line from the main bathroom to the other end of the D tank and replace it, as it rotted off right at the foundation. at least it was good weather and not frozen ground at that time. that did get replaced with PVC at the time. this end shows no signs of that happening.... nothing feeds the drain at this end except the 1/2 bath.... the whole rest of the house (full bath and kitchen, plus clothes washer and dish washer) uses the drain at the other end of the D- tank.

(yeah guys come back with "did I try here or go there, or "I had that problem and used this coupler".... lots of aggravation, for that 1 piece of pipe, it's fixed now.) If the site had it, Id be giving out alot of "thumbs down" for those that do.
Ok. Just use a 3" no hub coupler to pvc and be done with it. $10.00 at any hardware.
 
3" copper not cooper.
No hub coupler? Huh?
Like I'd said I'd been to several places and asked for something that would work at each place, nobody ever suggested such a thing. Did a Google search or 3, nothing to go from plastic to same size copper.
The guy at menards even got on the store computer and couldn't find anything.
When I go to many places and get the same answer that nothing is available (yet they all told me to switch to plastic from copper) what else am I supposed to do? I finally found a way to get past the issue, which happens to be how I wanted to fix it in the 1st place, though I got hung out to dry in the process. Several told me of (the same) alternative solution but when I asked for the materials to do so none could help me come up with that. So it wasn't"just me".
 
I wasnt insinuating it was just you. Just ive never seen it myself.

Sons name is Cooper. Phone autocorrects copper to cooper:thumbs:

I had some brass fittings on my drain for my tub. Couldn't find replacements parts and had to tear it all out and redo as pvc because the pvc wouldn't seal on the brass pieces. The rest is dwp. Which I had a terrible time finding.

I prefer using copper supply lines. Ive always liked sweating pipe and working with it. But the price is outrageous these days.
 
Yup. 3" was $2.75 to $3+ an INCH on feebay. Ridiculous. Cost $40 for 1 Damm FOOT of it. Just a foot. I agree about the working with aspect. Done right with no cobble going on.
I'm wanting to plumb my air compressor in the garage with 3/4" copper "M" (the thickest version) but am still waiting for the "Plummet" to come in copper pricing that my industrial electrician-cousin told me was coming a few years ago. Yet strangely he is also trying to talk me into using PEX every time I have a plumbing project. Cheap hack short cut way of doing it. I can say that WON'T happen. I had him out when I changed to a tankless water heater for a hand, and got tired of hearing how much quicker I'd have been done if I'd have run it in PEX instead of sweating copper. Sorry the rest of my house is sweated copper, I ain't plumbing a water heater in PEX.
I redid most of the copper under the house about 15 years ago, replaced cooper with more sweated copper. Easy process except when joining new to old.
 
Yup. 3" was $2.75 to $3+ an INCH on feebay. Ridiculous. Cost $40 for 1 Damm FOOT of it. Just a foot. I agree about the working with aspect. Done right with no cobble going on.
I'm wanting to plumb my air compressor in the garage with 3/4" copper "M" (the thickest version) but am still waiting for the "Plummet" to come in copper pricing that my industrial electrician-cousin told me was coming a few years ago. Yet strangely he is also trying to talk me into using PEX every time I have a plumbing project. Cheap hack short cut way of doing it. I can say that WON'T happen. I had him out when I changed to a tankless water heater for a hand, and got tired of hearing how much quicker I'd have been done if I'd have run it in PEX instead of sweating copper. Sorry the rest of my house is sweated copper, I ain't plumbing a water heater in PEX.
I redid most of the copper under the house about 15 years ago, replaced cooper with more sweated copper. Easy process except when joining new to old.
You have to be careful you don't get that cheep Chineeseium copper pipe. My sister did and wound up replacing walls ceilings and floor along with the pipe.
Don
 
Hopefully not as bad but I think this crap was marked vietnam.
They have 3-4 thicknesses of it, the original was paper thin/ I think dwv class, the piece i got was class m, the thickest. Same money among sellers for the thin stuff as the heaviest duty.
 
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