I just got all of the long straight sections and hitch cleaned up.That’s in nice shape the old Brinly products are built to last. I like that design of adjusting it out wider, real simple.
TSC is my go to for hardware. I try and buy a pound or two of something every time I go.I just got all of the long straight sections and hitch cleaned up.
Found out why this didn't rust so bad over the years, it's heavily coated with lead based paint. Had to setup the air compressor, grind in only one direction and trap all of the white powered lead paint into a collector. Else, it would of been super easy with the power washer to strip it all.
It's everything on the black cart in the photo.
The difficult part is stripping the round shaft like parts from the paint. All the parts in the box.
I'll do 2-coats of primer and then a nice finish coat of the Club Cadet white it once had without the lead.
The carriage bolts I'll price at Menards or the H-D. Too pricey at ACE.
I like the original square nut on the back top. It came off easy after a soak in Deep Creep.
When I was in Nashville, TSC is in every town. Up here, in the mid-west, TSC is over and hour drive one-way.TSC is my go to for hardware. I try and buy a pound or two of something every time I go.
Do you have a Runnings near bye? I found they are like TSC, sometimes better.When I was in Nashville, TSC is in every town. Up here, in the mid-west, TSC is over and hour drive one-way.
If it's the same type of electric lift used on John Deere 110, 112, and 200 series you might not have the spring that goes between the motor drive and the lift drive. I had a few apart on my JD's and if the spring is not lined up right or broken, the lift doesn't work.Yesterday mowed the grass with the MF7. First time for the backyard and 2nd time for the front yard. I went to use the old MTD mower yesterday, the engine fired up but the tractor would not move. It has a single speed rear axle, I verified the pulley on top was moving but it still would not move in forward or reverse. I pushed it to the side of the house so I could get it down to the garage. I live on a hill once the mower started going down-hill I released the brakes are not working very well, I made it to the garage without tipping it over. Took the rear axle out and took it apart and besides the gobs of 40 year old grease I have not seen any issue. I took the rear axle and differential apart, gears and pins are tight, the nuts that hold the gears on the end of the shaft are tight. Time to do some more research.
Today was spent trying to figure out the electric power lift on the MF12 hydro, the motor that runs it quit. I made the mistake of taking the whole thing apart vs just taking the motor off. I replaced the motor brushes and have the motor working but the cylinder will not lift any type of load. I moved it to the back yard for now. I fired up the old MF10 and mounted the mowing deck to it and brought it to the garage for an engine oil change along with oil change in transmission. Both needed done, transmission oil was white and engine oil was on the thin side.
They look to be different from the JD ones.If it's the same type of electric lift used on John Deere 110, 112, and 200 series you might not have the spring that goes between the motor drive and the lift drive. I had a few apart on mt JD's and if the spring is not lined up right or broken, the lift doesn't work.
Good to hear it was just the idler. I have a '91 ranger that I just replaced the solenoid for the second time. I would get the same clicking but after a couple tries it would start. Well, after about a year of running it that way it got to where it wouldn't start even after 10-20 attempts. Finally bought a new solenoid and it starts every time. We also had the same thing happen on our '89 F-250. We took a solenoid from the '88 F-250 and it was bad also. Another new solenoid and it starts as it should. Took the old solenoids apart and found the contacts were black and sooty from arcing.I started up my 1994 Ford Ranger last week and no power steering and the alternator light was on. I thought oh crap I know what this is. When I put my new radiator in a couple of weeks ago I noticed my tensioner pulley was kind of crooked but functional. I had planned on ordering one but forgot about it. I really didn’t want to raise the hood. I’m thinking my new serpentine belt shredded, blades on my new fan broke, and new radiator gouged. All was good and the belt just laying there and no damage anywhere except the tension pulley was gone. That was a big blessing because we just got home the evening before with no problems. I had to get this fixed so I had to pay twice what I could have ordered one. $57. instead of $23.-$32.
Thursday we were going to pick up some flowers, feed, and some large items at Costco. I went to start the same truck and click click no start. I took the battery cables off and cleaned them and it started. I get cleaned up Carol gets back in and again click click no start. I know my battery is good but tried jumping it and it started. I get cleaned up again we get in same thing again now I’m confused. I tried jumping the starter solenoid on the side of the fender and nothing. I checked and I had power going in and power coming out. I got Carol back out to hold the key on and I took a wooden stick and as soon as I touched the wires at the starter it started. I jacked it up and found the small wire plug just sitting on top of the starter tab. I pushed it back down and we were good to go.
And like CJ mentioned a lot of them were interchangeable.That was one of Ford's better ideas---remember the lightbulb 1970 commercial? Having the detached solenoid sure could save a lot of headaches!
DAC