What are you currently working on??
- Thread starter backwoods
- Start date
I changed the brake pads on my MF7 a few days ago. It would stop ok on flat ground, but not on even slight hills. The outer pad was almost completely worn down, the inner one was getting thin.
Parts are NLA, so I had to scrape off the old pads and glue new ones on. If it hepls anyone, these are the pads I ordered: Amazon.com.
I used a belt sander to sand them down to 1/8” thick like they were originally, and to the same shape as the originals. Then I glued and clamped them overnight.
I took it for a test drive, it stops great now. I am stopped on a pretty steep hill here. Before if I tried to stop here it would have rolled until I started going up the next hill.
While I was out riding around, I noticed the amp meter showing it was not charging, and when I shut it off and went to start it again, the battery was dead. I guess that will be my next job, figuring out why it’s not charging.
Parts are NLA, so I had to scrape off the old pads and glue new ones on. If it hepls anyone, these are the pads I ordered: Amazon.com.
I used a belt sander to sand them down to 1/8” thick like they were originally, and to the same shape as the originals. Then I glued and clamped them overnight.
I took it for a test drive, it stops great now. I am stopped on a pretty steep hill here. Before if I tried to stop here it would have rolled until I started going up the next hill.
While I was out riding around, I noticed the amp meter showing it was not charging, and when I shut it off and went to start it again, the battery was dead. I guess that will be my next job, figuring out why it’s not charging.
Ypo
Your depth adjustment works good, IF the sleeve hitch on the tractor is at the same height as the cultivator hitch. I had a lot better luck doing the adjustment with the tractor up on blocks the depth you want to run and then do the point adjustments with tractor and cultivator on level surface. Front points always go in the ground first.
My brothers' Cub Cadet was sold back in 2021. I have no machine to adjust towards. I've looked at what I've seen on a few YT vids and did my best from there.
This is a still shot I took showing how the wheel bottom is inline with the ripper/shovel mounting nuts.
And before taking it totally apart, I did take some measurements to match his old machine it was used on. He took the wheels off years ago. Where they went is unknown now.
This one is working with no following wheels.
oh no, I can't find the Cub 100 with the CC-500.
I have the wheels for one of mine but never used them. My sleeve hitch is winch operated. Last time I used the cultivator I had to put a cement block on it to get it to stay down but had sweeps on that one. Lot of green starting to show up but ground way to wet to work yet. Slime chance tomorrow afternoon it will be dry enough. Probably put a good layer of grass clipping around the plants and wait on the rest. No row crops planted, no veining crops planted either. Ground has been to wet for the last 6 weeks.
I spent 1/2 the day row cropping in sweet potatoes. We have a near perfect soil for them here. Also, peanuts grow well in this soil too.
I think the wheels on that cultivator would keep it at a set level. I can see the tines getting pulled down deeper in the rear without them.
Brett on your sweet potatoes due you prune the vines. My first year doing them vines got over 16’ long in a 3’x20’ raised bed and dominated that end of the garden with the vines but done well. The following year I kept them cut back to around 3’ from the plant but they never done so good.
Brett on your sweet potatoes due you prune the vines. My first year doing them vines got over 16’ long in a 3’x20’ raised bed and dominated that end of the garden with the vines but done well. The following year I kept them cut back to around 3’ from the plant but they never done so good.
keep us posted please!
Gt235.... Johnson outboard? Haha
Motor started first pull. Ran about 2/3 throttle for the first 15 min or so, then ran it a bit faster. Never did get to full throttle. Tiller has 2 speed forward and one reverse on the tines. Ground was hard and did a lot of shaking and some bouncing the first tim over but never did hear the governor open. Would have killed the old motor several times in that ground but this one just kept right on purring through it. At this point very happy with the predator. Strongly considering getting a twin around 16-18 hp for a White Yard Boss GT with a heavy smoking Onan engine.
Worked on the garden most of yesterday. By most I mean till by back gave out completely. Everything double tilled, 2 - 16' hog panels put up for the cucumbers, chicken wire boundary fence up for 1/2 the parameter, corner post are in so just have to finish with one roll of chicken wire. Make a couple rows for 150 onion plants. plant the cucumber and a few other veining crops this morning. Chance of rain this evening and tomorrow.
Those Predator engines are being used a lot. Most everyone says they are reliable, easy start, and reasonably priced.
My stepdad bought 2 sets of 1997 and prior year ball joints and a piece of 3/8 rod yesterday from tractor supply, to put his 6 horse Craftsmans steering back together. He says he cut the rod and threaded it to fit into the joints, and had to angle it to make it exactly like the original. He says made the rod adjustable to where he wanted it, so the steering wheel can be centered if need be. The nuts are there and tightened after they were where he wanted it adjusted. He made it today, and put it on. Pictures are below. I will also put this in the tractors own post in the tinker time section. I think it came out really good, and its not even mine! Now I’m gonna get some joints and rod then do the same thing for mine…..
I have a 6.5 on my 3pt tiller and a 420/13 hp on my sears, both with start right up even after sitting a year with bad gas. They've been good to me.