Workin' on the Old Tractors

4getgto said:
Not seeing much overspray...
We shot a couple cars in my garage's over the years but always used lacquer with a clear coat . Always a little easier to clean up..
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I turn the exhaust fan on in the paint booth and it will pull everything out within 5-10 minutes. This was only one coat at low pressure so not much of a cloud. Dad painted a farmall tractor in the shop over 40 years ago with no exhaust fan. Everything in the shop was red and I still find evidence of it every now and then when I move something that was in there when he shot the paint. It was sticky alkyd enamel and floated around looking for stuff to land on.
 
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MFDAC said:
Nice progress, CJet! Learning a lot from your posts.

DAC
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One thing you will learn is I am slow. ;)


This time of year I usually won't get started working in the shop until the afternoon. I usually get the fire started, make coffee, feed the cows and any feedlot cleanup thats needed. Then I can do some work when the shop gets up above 50°F. Today its a little warmer out so I got it up above 60°F which is just right when doing the paint work. Also my hands don't freeze when running the air tools.
 
Not slow, you just have other responsibilities, CJet. Priorities. I have to keep my shop at least 40* or I just can't work ibn it anymore. My damm hands refuse to warm up well anymore. Heck they get cold sitting on the couch in the house! I need 72F but my wife overheats above 70F!

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
Not slow, you just have other responsibilities, CJet. Priorities. I have to keep my shop at least 40* or I just can't work ibn it anymore. My damm hands refuse to warm up well anymore. Heck they get cold sitting on the couch in the house! I need 72F but my wife overheats above 70F!

DAC
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Same here, my hands get cold easy anymore. Holding onto cold tools like a heavy dolly when I am hammering on sheet metal is not fun. I wear gloves when I can but I can't feel the panels with gloves on. I stuff hothand packets in my gloves if I have to work outside when it gets below 40 these days. If I can keep my hands dry I'm good to go.
 
cjet69 said:
I turn the exhaust fan on in the paint booth and it will pull everything out within 5-10 minutes. This was only one coat at low pressure so not much of a cloud. Dad painted a farmall tractor in the shop over 40 years ago with no exhaust fan. Everything in the shop was red and I still find evidence of it every now and then when I move something that was in there when he shot the paint. It was sticky alkyd enamel and floated around looking for stuff to land on.
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Funny you should mention Farmall red.
I painted a Cub using red acrylic enamel many years ago in a garage with fiberglass doors and the paint stuck to them like a magnet, in our old place that we were closing to sell in a week..Needless to say I had a lot of cleaning to do before hand..fortunately the doors had a little dust on them to help get the overspray off.
 
cjet69 said:
Same here, my hands get cold easy anymore. Holding onto cold tools like a heavy dolly when I am hammering on sheet metal is not fun. I wear gloves when I can but I can't feel the panels with gloves on. I stuff hothand packets in my gloves if I have to work outside when it gets below 40 these days. If I can keep my hands dry I'm good to go.
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I need to get some of those hand warmers, CJet! My hands went numb shoveling today with insulated gloves on! I wear some HF cloth ones around in the shop while it is warming up. Need to get another bag of them. Down to one dirty pair again.

4getgto said:
Funny you should mention Farmall red.
I painted a Cub using red acrylic enamel many years ago in a garage with fiberglass doors and the paint stuck to them like a magnet, in our old place that we were closing to sell in a week..Needless to say I had a lot of cleaning to do before hand..fortunately the doors had a little dust on them to help get the overspray off.
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Static electricity in fiberglass made me hate brush lettering racecar bodies made of that stuff, Bill. I would get the lettering brush about an inch from the surface and the paint would suck out of the hairs leaving lightning bolt looking splatters where the paint wasn't supposed to be. Had to spray the back side of the fiberglass with water in a spray bottle to kill the static. Sometimes a person couldn't reach the backside where painting was needed. Had to keep cleaning to a minimum as drying the surface with a clean cloth would generate the static. Sometimes a wire alligator clipped to the panel and grounding to the floor would help. Thank god most of the bodies were steel or aluminum! Even then, a lot of them used fiberglass roofs. Could spray them easily at least.

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
Static electricity in fiberglass made me hate brush lettering racecar bodies made of that stuff, Bill. I would get the lettering brush about an inch from the surface and the paint would suck out of the hairs leaving lightning bolt looking splatters where the paint wasn't supposed to be. Had to spray the back side of the fiberglass with water in a spray bottle to kill the static. Sometimes a person couldn't reach the backside where painting was needed. Had to keep cleaning to a minimum as drying the surface with a clean cloth would generate the static. Sometimes a wire alligator clipped to the panel and grounding to the floor would help. Thank god most of the bodies were steel or aluminum! Even then, a lot of them used fiberglass roofs. Could spray them easily at least.

DAC
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I see they have Static Neutralizers in the auto painting trade now. Some are really expensive at over $850.

www.autobodytoolmart.com

NRD Neutralizer AC Anti-Static Gun - 6500

The NRD Neutralizer AC Anti-Static Blow-Off Gun - 6500 for auto body refinishing can be used at any stages of surface prep: before and after primer, painting and applying top coat. It removes static charge, dust fibers and impurities, as well as eliminates the needs for sprays or chemicals...
www.autobodytoolmart.com
 
Figured out how to set up the fenders for spraying. I was able to put a 1/2" round rod through one of the mounting holes in each fender and that will hold them upright. Masked off the saw horses and backsides of the fenders. Then I put a couple nails under the bottom edge of each fender to space it up off of the masking paper so it won't stick. Should be ready to put paint on tomorrow if all goes according to my plan. Once these are done I can concentrate on the hood and grill which will be the 2-tone parts.
 

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cjet69 said:
Figured out how to set up the fenders for spraying. I was able to put a 1/2" round rod through one of the mounting holes in each fender and that will hold them upright. Masked off the saw horses and backsides of the fenders. Then I put a couple nails under the bottom edge of each fender to space it up off of the masking paper so it won't stick. Should be ready to put paint on tomorrow if all goes according to my plan. Once these are done I can concentrate on the hood and grill which will be the 2-tone parts.
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Looking good Cjet..
You got me on the 2 tone part for the hood and grill ?
Green/yellow that are not individual pieces ?
Or you doing some customizing ? ;)
 
Used the new spray gun and shot the fenders and flywheel cover. Sprayed 3 coats and by the last one I was getting the gun adjusted about where I wanted it. I took it easy being a new gun cause I didn't want a bunch of runs to deal with. We'll get a good look at it tomorrow after it is dry and see what it looks like.
 

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cjet69 said:
Used the new spray gun and shot the fenders and flywheel cover. Sprayed 3 coats and by the last one I was getting the gun adjusted about where I wanted it. I took it easy being a new gun cause I didn't want a bunch of runs to deal with. We'll get a good look at it tomorrow after it is dry and see what it looks like.
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Looks really good from here, CJet! You became one with the gun right away!

DAC
 
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