Workin' on the Old Tractors

I started sanding the fenders to check them over for pitting or dents which I found a couple places that need another coat or 2 of primer to sand out. While running the DA sander over them I noticed some small spots that were flaking away as I sanded. Turns out to be rust spots that didn't get cleaned up during sandblasting and not being treated with a rust killer like Ospho. Not wanting to do a paint job and end up with rust coming up thru the new paint I decided I need to strip the primer and treat it. More work but it needs to be done. I got a good start on one fender. If you look at the 3rd pic you can see the rust before I sanded thru the primer.
 

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Finished stripping one fender and treating it with Ospho. The other is about half done and I will finish it after a late lunch/coffee break. The temp outside is 47°F and the wood furnace brought the shop temp up to 60°F which is very comfortable to work in and dries the air out also.
 

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Nice catch on that rust, CJet! Between your wood stove and the infra-red lights I bet you have no problem drying the filler, primer and paint! Nice thing about doing panels rather than an entire tractor or vehicle!

DAC
 
Just finished up the other fender. Think I will prime them with epoxy primer rather than the John Deere Buff Primer that the owner sprayed on these parts. The back sides will remain the JD primer.
 

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Nice catch on that rust, CJet! Between your wood stove and the infra-red lights I bet you have no problem drying the filler, primer and paint! Nice thing about doing panels rather than an entire tractor or vehicle!

DAC
Normally when I treat metal with Ospho I have to wait until the next day for it to dry so I can prime. This heat lamp dries it in about 10 to 15 minutes. I'm planning on painting the fenders and flywheel cover first and then do the hood and grille which will be green and yellow. That is where the heat lamp will really help out curing the green paint so I can paint the yellow without getting a wrinkle finish. In the past I have had to wait over a week in colder weather before I could be confident in not having trouble.
 
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Normally when I treat metal with Ospho I have to wait until the next day for it to dry so I can prime. This heat lamp dries it in about 10 to 15 minutes. I'm planning on painting the fenders and flywheel cover first and then do the hood and grille which will be green and yellow. That is where the heat lamp will really help out curing the green paint so I can paint the yellow without getting a wrinkle finish. In the past I have had to wait over a week in colder weather before I could be confident in not having trouble.
Do you spray or brush the Ospho on ?
Never use it but reading about I guess you can do either ?
 
Shot some epoxy primer on the fenders and flywheel cover. Tomorrow I'll try to get the High Build primer on the fenders.
 

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Sprayed a couple coats of high build primer on the fenders. Really like the new disposable cup system. Even works on my cheap HF gun and eliminated the leaky original cup.
 

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Finally sprayed some green on the inside of the fenders and the flywheel cover. These will have to dry for several days so I can mask the backside and spray the outside.
 

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How many different shades of green did JD use ?
Or should I say did they use more than one shade ?
JD had 2 Greens, The Classic Green for the 2 cylinder tractors and then the AG and Turf green for everything else. Now when you bring in other brands the variations are infinite. What you see in my pics is the Classic green but the pics make it looked washed out. If you put the 2 JD greens side by side they are very similar but still different. Some JD guys say they can't see the difference but I haven't compared it for probably 20 years.
 
Stripped the primer off of the hood. I prefer to use Epoxy over the treated bare metal followed by High build primer. I found a few rust pits that weren't filled with the JD buff primer so if I reprimed it, it would be a few days to a week before I could sand it without clogging the sandpaper. The high build is usually ready to sand in a few hours and easily the next day. I also notice more dieback with the JD primer.
 

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JD had 2 Greens, The Classic Green for the 2 cylinder tractors and then the AG and Turf green for everything else. Now when you bring in other brands the variations are infinite. What you see in my pics is the Classic green but the pics make it looked washed out. If you put the 2 JD greens side by side they are very similar but still different. Some JD guys say they can't see the difference but I haven't compared it for probably 20 years.
Classic is a shade or two darker than Ag and turf.
 
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