New project

It was so late when I stopped last night I forgot to post an update. The rear fender cover was installed, throttle cable and choke were hooked up. IMG_20250919_151923325_PORTRAIT.jpgThe drive belt for the tiller installed. I still need to get a seat and finish the wiring. I also have the gas tank with rust remover on the inside soaking. It was one of the worst gas tanks I have seen on the inside. After the tractor show today I will dump out the cleaner and see what it looks like on the inside.
 
Progress has been a little slow over the past few days. The seat I ordered showed up today and it is bolted on the tractor. I will get a picture tomorrow. First time a replacement seat has bolted in with no adapter plate or extra holes being drilled. The frustration has been getting the wiring to work, the PO soldered all the slide connectors to the key switch and quite a few of the wires by the switch were either bare or corroded. I ordered a new key switch, it showed up today and of course the wrong one. The one I ordered is for a magneto system not an external coil. I went into my room with new spare parts and I already had a new key switch. It took a while to get it put in and the wires in the correct spot with the help of continuity tester it is installed. This tractor has quite a bit of wiring due to PTO switch and also the electric lift switch. I am waiting on a bus bar to show up tomorrow to finish the wiring. Then I need to install gas tank and fire it up for the first time.
 
2 steps forward and 1 step back. Yesterday I spent my time afterwork working on the wiring for the electric clutch and electric lift. The electric clutch worked fine but the left would not work. After looking over the wiring diagram I have for the tractor not making any sense I texted a friend for help. He sent over a wiring diagram of a switch replacement he did on his JD318. Looking at it and then checking wires again, I noticed the one ground wire I had hooked to power. I changed that wire to ground and now the lift works. The next problem was after installing the battery the engine would not turn over. I at first thought starter issue took out the starter and bench testing it worked fine. Next place I thought of was maybe an issue with transmission or drive line from the engine. Removed the whole rear seat pan/fender, disconnected drive line and the engine still would not turn over. The only thing left was the electric clutch. Removed the hood and grill, pulled the clutch off and then the engine would turn over. I could not tell where it was binding up, I had a better looking coil from a MF14 on a shelf and installed the coil and now it cranks over just fine. Tomorrow I will finish bolting the seat pan back down and see if it will start with some fuel. I do have to move the gas tank forward about 1/2" to line it up with the hole if the hood. I am planning on loading up the mower deck and tiller and bring them from the back yard to see what they need besides paint.
 
Looking at the gas tank there was no more room to move it anymore forward. The tray the tank sets on was rusted away on the tractor. I made one going by a picture and dimensions of where it goes in the tractor.IMG_20250928_110635274_HDR.jpgThe back part next to the dash needed lifted up to get thWee tank where it should be and the fill hole where it should be in the hood. I took out some of bend reinstalled it the tray. It fixed the fuel filter issue.IMG_20250928_115941830.jpg
 
I did order a new gas cap with the fuel gauge from Jack's. I did bolt on the mule drive for the mower and I put some skateboard tape on the steps.IMG_20250928_155515553.jpgIMG_20250928_155555044_PORTRAIT.jpgIMG_20250928_155610661_PORTRAIT.jpgI also took the trailer to the back yard and loaded up the tiller and mowing deck. The mowing deck needs all bearings and some welding done to the middle of the deck. IMG_20250928_160414592_HDR.jpg
 
After work I stripped down the deck to see how bad of shape its in. It is in real bad shape, lots of patch panels welded on different places. The main part looks like Swiss cheese.IMG_20250929_185002355.jpgThis is a 48" deck, the other option is a 42". I bought a couple of JD decks at auction a few years ago. I am going to see what shape they are in, if in good shape I will take the mounting brackets off of this deck and on the JD deck. I can't remember how wide the JD decks are but I remember they were less than 48".
 
After work I stripped down the deck to see how bad of shape its in. It is in real bad shape, lots of patch panels welded on different places. The main part looks like Swiss cheese.View attachment 99096This is a 48" deck, the other option is a 42". I bought a couple of JD decks at auction a few years ago. I am going to see what shape they are in, if in good shape I will take the mounting brackets off of this deck and on the JD deck. I can't remember how wide the JD decks are but I remember they were less than 48".
I think the deck on my JD110 is a 38 or 40". Obviously, they made bigger ones though, Ted. All those protective covers on mowing decks make it impossible to clean all the debris off the top of them and most people won't pull the deck to remove the covers to clean them. They go away on my tractors. Then I can blow everything off with compressed air after every mow.

DAC
 
John Deere decks, 38" (old style three blade. new style two blade), 42" (newer deck), 44" (newer mulch/rear discharge), 46" (old deck), 48" (newer deck), 50" ( for 318/420, maybe a couple others), 54" (newer deck), 60" (both old and newer style), and lastly 72" (front mowers, sub compacts, compacts). You probably got a couple of 46 decks Ted. You should see if they are for the gear drives (110, 112, 200 series), or the hydro drives (120, 140, 300 series). The gear drive decks have the main deck drive pulley to the center right rear of the deck, the hydro drive decks have the main deck drive pulley front and center. Judging by that Allis deck, the hydro drive version JD deck would probably be the best to use.
 
I think the deck on my JD110 is a 38 or 40". Obviously, they made bigger ones though, Ted. All those protective covers on mowing decks make it impossible to clean all the debris off the top of them and most people won't pull the deck to remove the covers to clean them. They go away on my tractors. Then I can blow everything off with compressed air after every mow.

DAC
The deck I use on my 12 I have taken off the belt guard to make it easier to clean off.
 
Sometimes I get lucky with an auction purchase. I do have a JD deck that is 48" wide with a center drive pulley. IMG_20250930_171343151_HDR.jpgNo comes the fun part of stripping it down and getting the Allis mounts attached to it and then repaint it white. The 2 ears on the back will have to be plasma cut off along with the front roller. The only rust hole is over by the discharge and the size of a penny. The deck mandrels need new bearings installed. The drive belt will need to be a little longer, the front of the deck to the center of pulley is 2" farther back. I did forget to measure the deck width front to back to make sure the Allis has enough wheel base.
I also put the haban sickle bar mower under the economy to see how it will fit. I need to remove the mule drive and the lift arms for a center mount mower.IMG_20250930_172147313_PORTRAIT.jpg
 
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