You have the ground clearance to it sounds like it it going to work well! Glad you don't have to cut up such a solid body!
DAC
1934 Chevy Coupe
- Thread starter Traill95
- Start date
DAC
Been awhile since I posted something here. I got the 350 engine set up on a test stand after being rebuilt and spent an afternoon timing it and setting the advance After we had that all in sync and had run the engine for about an hour all total we drained the oil and flipped the engine over and removed the center main cap and found this.
So will be taking the crank out and checking the bore alignment and also the crankshaft.
So on to the next part; Here straight from Walden's Speed Shop in Pomona, Ca.
A sheet metal replacement for the soft top of the coupe. it has been contoured to the shape of the top of the coupe and all I have to do is cut the hole to fit and butt weld this in. Sounds easy doesn't it
I am thinking this is going to be a whole lot of fun. Not!! With a little patience and the help of brother Rick I think we can get it done.. I will be watching a bunch of videos before getting to into it.
So will be taking the crank out and checking the bore alignment and also the crankshaft.
So on to the next part; Here straight from Walden's Speed Shop in Pomona, Ca.
A sheet metal replacement for the soft top of the coupe. it has been contoured to the shape of the top of the coupe and all I have to do is cut the hole to fit and butt weld this in. Sounds easy doesn't it
I am thinking this is going to be a whole lot of fun. Not!! With a little patience and the help of brother Rick I think we can get it done.. I will be watching a bunch of videos before getting to into it.
To Tig I have to buy the torch head and get a tank of 100% Argon, I am going to be studying you tube vids of butt welding with Tig and also with Mig. I have not Tig welded since I retired (2014) and am not real steady when using both hands separately. I can hold the Mig in both hands.
No worries about it breaking loose over the years with body twist and flex?
It's an option, I went to classes on it in the late 1990s when it first came out. Pretty impressive stuff. I know alot of shops use it as an alternative. Saves time, no warped metal. The classes did demos on the strength. The epoxy won
I thought about that also. but figured the panel was the size of the roof hole so no overlap. That is some really tough stuff. I read up on it several years ago and like Jableman said, all the tests I watched the epoxy won. It's used extensively by auto makers and body shops now. There may be more out there but the stuff I read about was called "Fusor" and was produced by 3M.
DAC
If it can handle the extreme temperatures and expansion and contraction that's the way I'd do it. What the heck they are gluing airliners together.
There is overlap, the sheet metal is slightly oversize. The roof has to be trimmed where it was slotted for the brads and staples used on the soft top. also the sheet metal is a little long so I have to set the back and the sides and then trim the front to fit. I guess I could flange all the way around and epoxy it. I now have to do even more videos and studying!
That bearing looks like block wasn't cleaned enough, shrapnel in oil galleys and maybe they had clearances too tight, gotta ask, too did anyone prime the oil pump before started?
I pack my oil pumps with Vaseline and spin them before I bolt them on a bit to start pulling the Vaseline thru the oil pump passages.
Don't think it's a crank alignment issue.
We primed the oil by attaching a pressure tank with five quarts in it to the oil pressure hole and pumped it thru the system at 60lbs pressure while turning the crank slowly every so often.
I just ordered a set of 16 of those to use.