1934 Chevy Coupe

I agree with Dodge Trucker. Were the oil passages flushed before assembly? By you? I find it strange that just one bearing gave a problem.
Back in the sixties a Buddy had a 55 Chevy 210 that would take out #2 main on the crankshaft after leaving the lights. Took a bit to figure out what was causing it because the engine had a high volume oil pump. The second time we not only examined the oil passages but used a piece of wire and low pressure air and checked all the oil passages on the crank. Sure enough a small piece of light brown paper came out of one passage. Next we cut the oil filter apart and the filter element had ruptured sending pieces of paper into the oil passages. This was one of Andy Granatelli's STP filters. After going to another brand of filter we never had a problem again.
What did the crankshaft look like?
 
I agree with Dodge Trucker. Were the oil passages flushed before assembly? By you? I find it strange that just one bearing gave a problem.
Back in the sixties a Buddy had a 55 Chevy 210 that would take out #2 main on the crankshaft after leaving the lights. Took a bit to figure out what was causing it because the engine had a high volume oil pump. The second time we not only examined the oil passages but used a piece of wire and low pressure air and checked all the oil passages on the crank. Sure enough a small piece of light brown paper came out of one passage. Next we cut the oil filter apart and the filter element had ruptured sending pieces of paper into the oil passages. This was one of Andy Granatelli's STP filters. After going to another brand of filter we never had a problem again.
What did the crankshaft look like?
We only pulled the center main cap and then decided to take the motor apart and check everything out. I didn't assemble this engine though I have put quite a few together years ago. I have a friend that built this ( He insisted I let him build it because I had too much too do to the body and frame, he is retired also and bored to death.) and has built so many of these that I am not worried about that. I will probably go over to his place today and see if he has it apart yet.
 
That bearing looks like block wasn't cleaned enough, shrapnel in oil galleys and maybe they had clearances too tight, gotta ask, too did anyone prime the oil pump before started?
I pack my oil pumps with Vaseline and spin them before I bolt them on a bit to start pulling the Vaseline thru the oil pump passages.
Don't think it's a crank alignment issue.
I agree with Dodge Trucker. Were the oil passages flushed before assembly? By you? I find it strange that just one bearing gave a problem.
Back in the sixties a Buddy had a 55 Chevy 210 that would take out #2 main on the crankshaft after leaving the lights. Took a bit to figure out what was causing it because the engine had a high volume oil pump. The second time we not only examined the oil passages but used a piece of wire and low pressure air and checked all the oil passages on the crank. Sure enough a small piece of light brown paper came out of one passage. Next we cut the oil filter apart and the filter element had ruptured sending pieces of paper into the oil passages. This was one of Andy Granatelli's STP filters. After going to another brand of filter we never had a problem again.
What did the crankshaft look like?

Ran a fit test on the crank the # 2 main bearing was .003 out of round #3 and #4 were .0025
All the bearings had abnormal wear we just looked at the middle one and then decided to tear it back down and check everything out.
Guess I should have checked that to begin with.
 
did the crank see the machine shop? if the crank is out of round, I'd say probably not. Any taper in the journals? Sounds like a crank that needs turned 10/10 with matching bearings.

I'd probably pull it all back down, and send the block back thru the machine shop for another dunk in the hot tank.... and then do the baby bottle brush treatment when you get it back before (re) assembly.

You're not far from my work.... what machine shop might there be near you that I don't know about?
I've been using the one in Kentland, he's done me OK so far.
One has semi recently reopened back by me here in Kankakee, the old Albers..... seems OK for piecework but I dunno that I'd send an engine there and let him assemble it for me.... my son did that and every place it could leak oil it did and in short order... and had a bad vacuum leak at intake to head joint that we had to redo to get it right.
 
did the crank see the machine shop? if the crank is out of round, I'd say probably not. Any taper in the journals? Sounds like a crank that needs turned 10/10 with matching bearings.

I'd probably pull it all back down, and send the block back thru the machine shop for another dunk in the hot tank.... and then do the baby bottle brush treatment when you get it back before (re) assembly.

You're not far from my work.... what machine shop might there be near you that I don't know about?
I've been using the one in Kentland, he's done me OK so far.
One has semi recently reopened back by me here in Kankakee, the old Albers..... seems OK for piecework but I dunno that I'd send an engine there and let him assemble it for me.... my son did that and every place it could leak oil it did and in short order... and had a bad vacuum leak at intake to head joint that we had to redo to get it right.
Not going to mess with turning it. Just going to get a new Skat Crank and bearings. pretty much starting over going to send it out to be boiled out again. The Buddy doing the work believe it or not knows what he is doing I just gave him what I thought was a good motor that only needed rings and bearings. Neither one of us even thought about the Crank being bad.
 
Does Scat make stock cranks? I know that they do strokers.
I don't doubt your buddy knows what he's doing/ it happens even to the high dollar pros....more often than you think, they try to hide their mistakes but they're there.
 
Does Scat make stock cranks? I know that they do strokers.
I don't doubt your buddy knows what he's doing/ it happens even to the high dollar pros....more often than you think, they try to hide their mistakes but they're there.
They do a stock 350 crank for not too much more of the cost to have a crank turned, oil holes chamfered and polished.
 
Street rod woodworking. Didn't realize that I was going to turn into a Woodworker when I brought this 34 coupe home.
That thin piece fits behind the larger piece at the bottom of the door and will have to be replaced. On the trunk lid as you can see there is no bottom piece and I have no idea what it is supposed to look like. I will have to get on the 3 window coupe site and see if someone can send me a pic.
Door 1.jpgTrunk lid.jpgTrunkLid2.jpg

I also started getting the radiator shell patched and painted with flat black epoxy primer
IRadiator Shell.jpg
Test fit the fiberglass tail pan too. I am not real happy with the fit but will work with it to get it better.
Tailpan.jpg

To make thing even more fun every piece of wood I have to make has a curve to it!
 
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