1990 Craftsman 917.254450 (RED) 2020 update

KennyP

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Guess it grew together! Next time use lots of anti-seize on both parts!
 

larrybl

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When I got this over 10 years ago I couldn't get either rim off so the transaxle was just cleaned and painted with new tires. I'll do the same to it again.
 

larrybl

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I watched one more YT, nor sure I want to pay $80.00 + for these and it not work. I think I'll stick to the plan of clean this up the best I can as is.
 

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larrybl

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Finished dissembling the trans-axle as far as it will go. Small parts cleaned in solvent. Brake pads are not worn at all (Due to grease leakage). Pressure washed the trans-axle and got soaked in the process. It will stay here till I get new tires for it. Race is on TV!
 

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alleyyooper

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Had to replace broken hub on a Massey Harris 44 tractor. no small matter eithr as you could not just set the hub on a press and push the axel out. I soaked the axle and hub for about a week with a prenatation oil you can buy in stores. then I tried to just hand pull it off, Nope, go to a 2 pound hand sledge, Nope, trided a 8 pound sledge, again Nope.

Made a log chain section and a 20 ton bottle jack and still couldn't get it to move. Added heat from the smoke wrench with the 20 tons of pressure, still nothing.

Was talking to my dad and said I guess the only thing left was to use thr esmoke wrench to cut it off and hope I didn't screw up the axel.

I had to go out of town for my job Dad suggest I go and buy a can of the old coke (when New coke just came out) Pour it on tha axel after I made a pool with plumers puddy.

I returned 3 days later and slid that broken hub off the axel with just hand pressure.

People were drinking that stuff too.

:D Al
 

larrybl

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Got the pressure washer out to clean up some of RED’s parts and deck. Ended up cleaning a few tractors too. The frame turned out squeaky clean!
Moved on to servicing the deck. Only the underside is getting a coat of paint, and the blades sharpened. All the pulleys and mandrills spin easily and no slop, belts still look good. No additional work needed for the 44” deck. No rust or pitting anywhere.
 

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larrybl

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I have a couple spare front axles and went to salvage the spindle bushings. I found out that the center of the spindle sleeve is tapered and I promptly got the press stuck. I used the bearing splitter to un-attach the press from the axle. I found a socket to allow me to press the bushings out. I won’t lie, had to use a BFH at times also. I used a mirror to line up the press plates to allow the bushing to pass through, Ended up bending the plates, but turned them over for the other side and they straightened out. Got two good bushings out on one axle, Re-thinking the removal process before I go to the other spare axle and RED’s axle. Done for the day.
 

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larrybl

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I finally have new bushings installed in RED’s front axle. The old bushing seems to be a steel insert the full length of the tube. I left it in place and decided to add the brass bushing to the top and bottom. I was able to salvage 4 good bushings out of a couple old axles I had. Took some measurements and looks like I needed to remove 0.20 from the OD. The only method I have for this was a drill with a barrel sand drum adapter, 100 grit sandpaper and a welding glove. Took 2 days of sanding to get these close. After the 1st set, I got smarter and once the bushing was close, I popped it in the freezer for a couple hours and it hammered in easier. Finally, I reamed the ID with a ¾ hole saw. The spindles have no slop at are, and are snug.
 

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larrybl

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After the steering bushings I moved on to the drag link. This is a notorious failure item on these machines. I replaced this 3-4 years ago and it is developing slop again. I have three used ones that I decided to try and add adjustable / replaceable ends on. I have a link arm off something that has good ends. Plan is to cut the non replaceable ends off the drag link and cut and weld the threaded ends on.

Talked with my neighbor and he said easy no problem.
 

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KennyP

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After the steering bushings I moved on to the drag link. This is a notorious failure item on these machines. I replaced this 3-4 years ago and it is developing slop again. I have three used ones that I decided to try and add adjustable / replaceable ends on. I have a link arm off something that has good ends. Plan is to cut the non replaceable ends off the drag link and cut and weld the threaded ends on.

Talked with my neighbor and he said easy no problem.
Too bad you can't thread the ends so they are replaceable!
 

larrybl

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Neighbor will cut the threaded ends off the short straight piece and weld to the ends of the drag link. The blue masking tape marks where each is to be cut off.
 

larrybl

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Front axle is installed, I added oil to the cross link to loosen up the fittings. It all moves well with no slop.
 

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larrybl

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Trying to get this to page 3. So while working remotely I decided to install the clutch pulleys. Had to refer to the manual as when my computer is remote I can't do anything else including looking at tear down pictures. The top rubber caps are a pain to install, I had to heat them to the point that the old grease smoked, and I had to use gloves, took two tries per side. The drive belt is oil soaked from the engine oil leak and will need replaced. The clutch spring was another challange, I used a trampoline tool to stretch the spring, but had to make a wire loop to allow me to anchor the end.
 

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