Craftsman 917.273100 2000 Estate find

Got run out of the kitchen, so I decided to put some new parts on. front wheel bushings came off with little struggle. I cleaned the old grease out, Installed one side and packed with new grease and installed the other side. There is no slop at all in the steering now. Installed the seat spring rubber covers. Cleaned up the old lug bolts and painted them and the new to match. Should look good against the white rims.

I'm sure you are aware of the 1/2" wide ball bearing conversion (JD Bearings) which is good, but I wanted to alert to roller bearings that are 1", the heaviest I could find without significant modifications for our wheels. I have all the specs here;


HD Bearings.JPG

The stock bushing is very strong and did hold up well. This conversion is only if, in my opinion, like me, you are putting a lot of weight on the front end, then it will significantly reduce friction and retain more grease, or of course if someone just wants to, because they can.

With all this said, The age of your tractor, replacing those bushings I think will go a long way in making your tractor feel new. The importance for someone wondering, I think is that they will roll straight and leak the least amount of grease. It seems that over time the bushings will oval out of round as normal wear, but that leaves greater gaps and uneven contact with the axles. I wonder if anyone has had experience letting these go? Just curious.

I like the on going pictures.

:)
 
I didn't like the crinkle in the Kohler label so I removed it and made it back to a peal and stick once I clean and paint the engine plastic shrouds.
 

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Finished up cleaning the engine, not sure what happened to the air filter housing. The inside is not damaged, I'll try and repair this with some plastic mend. Need to go to town anyhow for paint.
 

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Going back to something I am half good at, Rattle Can Painting. I think "ACE Deep Forest Green) is as close as I am going to get. Wasn't sure about the Black, Semi Gloss or Gloss, I think the Semi Gloss will work better. Grey is a little lighter, but I like it. Won't be long before this is running again.
 

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Guess it's plan "B" for the tin cracks. I probably should have started with this first. $6.99 sheet of 22 gauge steel. two packs of JB weld. Finish sanding all the paint off the underside in the size of the cut steel, Plan to JB sandwich Weld this to the under side and use rivets to secure in place. Once cured smooth off with angle grinder and touch up with JB again. Sand with 320 once cured again.
 

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Had a heck of a day at work, and had to defer some stuff till tomorrow. Day continued to go down hill with the 45 mile drive home. Got lost in a sub division (tried a short cut to avoid a accident) and hit so many cul-de-saks I lost count. Ended up in a housing construction dead end, 40 minuets later I was free. About 3 miles from the house I got a bad vibration in the front end, thought I may have picked up a nail so I pulled over and checked the tires. All had air, so I continued on. Vibration went away, I was doing 80 when it happened, at 75 all seemed fine. I expect to find a flat tire in the morning. Any how, I decided to see what the starter looked like. Three issues, 1 very grungy, 2, Spring is broke, 3, magnet is loose. but not broke.
I have a doner for the spring. Brushes look ok, and I should be able to JB the magent back in. Stopping here for the night.
 

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Took the day off so to run errands (Prop Tax, and re-new DL). Made some progress on the rear tin. Used 60 grit to rough up both surfaces. Brake clean to wipe the areas down. Got the tools ready, and drilled holes for the rivets. I anchored two to hold the tin while I drilled all the holes then removed them. Used the angle grinder to de-bur the holes. The large patch used a whole pack of JB, the side patches took 1/2 a pack. Applied the JB with a rubber bondo paddle, then riveted the tin on. Did the same for the two side patches. Tomorrow after this cures I'll use the angle grinder to remove the rivet stubs, and apply a smooth coat of JB on the top side. All will be sanded once cured good.
 

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Finished epoxying the top side, once dry I'll sand the whole thing. I am thinking of removing all the decals at this point and depending how well the body work looks I may order new ones. For now I am thinking this will become the main mower here.

Moving on to the hood, I fixed a dent in the front and now trying to decide on how to fix the stress cracks. I am wanting to re-enforce this area.
1. Thought brazing may work here, would be hard to get the paint removed and the metal clean.
2. Findangle some hurricane ties and rivet and JB-weld here. There is a grille that is bolted on the front. I could upgrade the blind nut and through bolt to secure the grille and rivet the tie to the side then JB the whole thing.
3. Some times wandering aimlessly around Ace hardware a soulution may appear, need to pick up some blind bolt hardware anyhow.

I'll leave you with some pictures to see what I am rambling about.
100 - The original before tear down picture.
101 - The fender pan top side waiting on JB to harden.
102 - 105 the hood stress cracks.
106 - My solution
107 - wimpy blind fastener.
108 - Upgraded blind fastener.
109 - Almost a finished bracket, I need to make a better one as two of the rivit holes are too close together.
 

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I went with plan B, Used 3/16 rivets, was about all I could do to squeeze these in. Probably didn't need the JB as I upgraded the blind fasteners.
Why would they put the label on the clamp threads!!!!
 

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Looks like I need a new starter. Brushes are shot, and the doner starter is of a design I have not seen before (no permanent magnets, and only 2 brushes).
A search on
ebay (Brush kit)
CURRENTLY SOLD OUT
Kohler 12 221 02-S BRUSH KIT
$34.12

New starter is $43.95 on Amazon
 

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Starter has been ordered, and it is perfect (abet a little windy) day for painting outside. sanded with 220 and 320, then washed with simple green.
 

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Did I mention it's a bit windy today. Wife asked me why I had a green tint?
 

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Some work today, running boards and oil change. Wanted to see if any debris was in there, and to measure how much came out. Still finding more issues with the seat bracket. PO must have weighed a lot, with all the stress cracks I am finding. I may just try and source a complete seat pan and bracket as he drilled the holes out on this one. Starter is supposed to be here today.
 

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The starter arrived, I forgot to clean up the hardware. I was planning on installing the fender pan today but this side tracked me. Getting ready for supper.
 

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More done, Oil and filter added, Battery tray drain tube added, had to warm the new tube up, Starter installed, had to shim the oil filler tube bracket. Battery is being trickle charged. Tomorrow I’ll clean up and check the PTO, add the battery tie down and hopefully get the fender pan and hood installed.
 

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Waiting on paint to dry. Plan is to get everything ready that goes underneath (foot rests, pto, drive pulley) so I only have to get down on the floor once (yea right!)
 

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