Just had to do it.
- Thread starter cjet69
- Start date
Brazed up the bearing seal cage plate yesterday. Threw it in the ashes in the wood stove for a slow cool down. Got it set up in the lathe as close as I could and machined it smooth. I had a few voids where I didn't get enough brass but I am not going to worry about it. A little paint and it will be ready to assemble.
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Haven't done much work on this the last few days. About a week ago I was pulling on a wrench with my rib cage braced against a metal bar and I heard and felt a pop in the ribs. Took my breath away for a minute but I continued on. Probably did some cartilage damage. Then while painting the parts I got a twinge in my back and when I get a little out of position I would get some shooting pain. The back is almost back to normal but the ribs are going to take several weeks. I really feel it when I lift the bales when feeding the cows. I keep moving but I'm trying not to aggravate things more.
Anyway, today I did sprayed a little rattle can primer on the steering bearing and seal cage pieces.
Anyway, today I did sprayed a little rattle can primer on the steering bearing and seal cage pieces.
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Seems those stomach and back mussels take a long time to heal back. I pulled the back mussels just under the shoulder blades about 3 weeks ago. Lifting the end of a steel gate out of the ground to rehang it. Yesterday I could finally carry a fork full of hay without it bothering.
Now that the fencing is done and the cows are on pasture I should have a little time to work on the 230. It was pouring rain today so I went out to the shop to look it over and try to remember just where I was at on the project. Looks like cleaning gasket surfaces for the pan, timing, and rocker covers is next. That means I need to clean the bolts up for them so I fired up the Sonic Cleaner and threw the bolts in an old plastic Mayo jar with Simple Green in it. Ran it 15 minutes at 120°F. Turned the Simple Green to a dirty grey and the bolts are ready to wire brush and paint.
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Keep in mind here I'm not criticizing anyone and I have no experience using a sonic cleaner.
What I don't get is for carbs and little things fine but if your going to have to clean up a mess after using it and wire brush or wheel things afterwards what are you gaining by using this thing? I can see where they would be perfect for some things but to clean up sludged up parts I don't get. I would think solvent and a parts cleaning brush would be better. Maybe it's more economical?
What I don't get is for carbs and little things fine but if your going to have to clean up a mess after using it and wire brush or wheel things afterwards what are you gaining by using this thing? I can see where they would be perfect for some things but to clean up sludged up parts I don't get. I would think solvent and a parts cleaning brush would be better. Maybe it's more economical?
Was kinda thinking the same thing..
But I guess just because it can be done it doesn't necessarily mean its feasible.
I’m in the same boat with Chris and Bill. My biggest pet peeve with cleaning parts is the hardware I hate that part. When prices weren’t so high I mostly replaced it all but not now. I’ve been working on a vibratory method of cleaning small parts like hardware. Many good diy ones on YouTube.
Dry or with a cleaning agent? Not familiar with a rock tumbler. Have used brass tumbler with corn cob agent.
Do you know what brand you have and what media you use. The one at HF looks like a nice one.
As far as a mess goes, there really isn't one when I use a separate container with the bolts and cleaning fluid floated in the sonic cleaner. The wire brush or blasting would be used to remove paint or rust. Before I wire brush, bead blast, sandblast, or use my vibratory cleaner, I will clean as much oil and grease off the parts as I can. The sonic cleaner accomplished this for me. While the sonic cleaner was cleaning the bolts I was scraping gasket surfaces on the engine saving me time/Labor cleaning the small parts. I haven't tried it yet but I am sure some cleaning solvent in a small container would work just fine. In the end its just use whatever method you want to use as long as it accomplishes your goal.
No liguids just different types of dry media like walnut shells, sand blasting material etc. Corn cobs might be a little soft for steel hardware.
We have one also and it work good. I still like to clean the oil and grease off so I don't contaminate the media.
The one we have is a Vibratory tumbler. Lots of different media for rust removal, cleaning, or polishing.