UUUMMM!!!!! Both were cousins.
 Those cousins can be really helpful. Actually, just me (the small one) and my brother. I think something is wrong with my camera because I'm looking older than I used too.
Just had to do it.
- Thread starter cjet69
- Start date
 Those cousins can be really helpful. Actually, just me (the small one) and my brother. I think something is wrong with my camera because I'm looking older than I used too.
Yea I know about those darn cameras, Sharon and would take each others picture on our birthday holding a cake then one year I told its time to stop that foolishness and we didUUUMMM!!!!! Both were cousins.
Cleaned the fuel tank. Used a pressure washer to blow a bunch of crud and loose rust out. Rinsed it a few times until the water stayed clear. Followed that with some diluted Ospho and then an acetone rinse to remove the remaining water. Should be good enough for now. The fuel shutoff on the sediment bowl was stuck so I ran it through the sonic cleaner about 4 times until I could finally get about 1/2 a turn on it. this also loosened the glass bowl that was welded in place by the old, varnished fuel. with the bowl and shutoff valve removed I hit it with glass beads. Reassembled it and it seems to be working now but won't know for sure until I put some gas in the tank. This evening I took some sockets and a breaker bar up and got all of the rear wheel bolts removed except for 2 per wheel to hold them in place. I hope to get the Farmall C moved so I can pull the rear wheels off of it to install on the 230. If I get that far I just need to swap the 6v coil for a 12v and it should be test drive time.
Got the rear tires swapped from the Farmall C over to the 230. Need to get the tank installed and either a 12v coil or buy a 6v battery. I can hear one front wheel bearing clunking when I roll the front wheels on the 230. Found the same thing with the Farmall C. Maybe I can swap the front hubs to get 2 good ones on the 230.
Attachments
The Farmall C is actually a runner but has been sitting for over 5 yrs so it needs the fuel system cleaned up and file the points to get spark. Then it should run again. The 230 is just borrowing the tires for now so I can drive it. If there aren't any trans or rear end problems I will go on the search for a set of tires for the 230.
Pulled the front hubs off to check the front wheel bearings. I heard some clunking sound when we towed the tractor to its current location. Found what was making the noise. It was one of the outer wheel bearings so I stole one out of the Farmall C. Cleaned them all up in solvent and repacked them. They are turning freely and quietly now. Installed the Battery and fuel tank and made a few trips up and down the driveway. All of the gears are good with no noises in the rear end. The engine is running really good with 30 psi oil pressure at idle and 45 psi at full throttle. The only problem I found was when I tried the hydraulics on the fast hitch. Oil came shooting out of one of the steel lines that run past the seat base/tool box. I'll get the lines pulled off and see if I can make a repair. Also when I first fired it up with the 6v battery in and the charging system connected the amp gage fluctuated between + and - several time and then went to just the - side. After running it I put the hand crank in it and the 2 weaker cylinders have decent feeling compression now. I'll check them with a gage and do a leakage test but things are looking up. I forgot the camera at home again so I will shoot some video of it tomorrow.
The charging thing could be brushes sticking in the generator or the voltage regulator, hopefully you can breaze the hyd line and be good to go, sounds to me you did good on this tractor deal a 230 is a nice sizes tractor. Soon on to the BO got a feeling that one will take a bit longer
I know next to nothing about generators and the old VR's. I guess its time to learn something about them. I was thinking the same thing on the hydraulic line, just braze it up. The plan for the BO is to get it to the shop later this summer/fall and see if we can press the pistons out of the block. Who knows maybe we can get away with just honing the cylinders. If not we have a boring bar that will handle this size bore.
Cjet if you loosen the generator belt enough so the pulley will spin free that take a jumper cable connect to the battery + post and touch the other eng to the A post on the generator if the gen motors its ok then its on to the VR remove the cover and use brake cleaner or carb cleaner and shot all the points and contacts leave to cover off and run the engine and see if it generates. Here's a couple of VR manuals Is the VR a 2 coil unit or a 3?
Last edited:
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.
I meant to ask is the VR a 2 coil or a 3 coil unit
I don't know. I'll take the top off and get a pic. Also this is positive ground so would I run the jumper wire from the neg. battery terminal to the A post on the Gen.?
Took the covers off the Gen brushes and VR. The brush spring lever s look pretty rusty and may be stuck. The VR I haven't looked at the points yet to see if anything is stuck. Gonna need my cheaters for this job.
Attachments
Yes I hadn't thought about it being positive ground so yes neg post to the :A: terminal use a heavy jumper wire there will be a good Amp draw, for a quick observation the 2 coil VR are more or less square and the 3 coil ones are rectangular
I did what you said with the jumper wire. used jumper cables. It motors like you said it should. The brush on the top had a stuck spring lever. Freed it up so its working good. Fired it up and still no charge. Filed the points on the top coil in the pics and it started charging. The voltmeter read 6.85 volts when its running. We'll have to give Noel the win since it was the points. I shot some videos that I will upload.