MF 1450
- Thread starter MFDAC
- Start date
The MF1450 had been sitting outside for a month or so now. I started it up this afternoon to bring it in the shop and plan how to tarp it for sitting outside all winter. It fired right up and the amp gauge was still showing 2 or 3 amp charge! Backed it in and let it cool off. I had to go in the house to fold my laundry and happen to notice one of the motor mounts laying right where it was parked---LOL! Guess I better look those over better! If anyone has any pics of similar motor mount setups I would appreciate seeing them!
DAC
DAC
I'm taking a wild guess that those mounts are installed wrong. I think that plate in the rubber is supposed to sit on top of that mounting hole in the frame, not up from under it. Why that chunk of 1/4" plate is stuck on the bottom is anyone's guess.
I'm sure thinking the engine will have to come out and get new gaskets and seals. It seems to leak oil worse every time I fire it up. Suppose I better start looking for a gasket set. Marked it's territory real good on the new gravel!
DAC
I'm sure thinking the engine will have to come out and get new gaskets and seals. It seems to leak oil worse every time I fire it up. Suppose I better start looking for a gasket set. Marked it's territory real good on the new gravel!
DAC
The engine is going to come out of the MF1450. It has leaked all the oil out of it where nothing is showing on the dipstick. I'll get some pics tomorrow of leaking. NOW the "Just as well" part starts. If the engine is coming apart for a full re-seal, it would probably a good idea to give it an overhaul. Will have to get the engine apart to measure the cylinder taper and out of round to see what overbore would be needed, but it seems plenty are available.
There's a lot of kits like this one. Some with valves but no connecting rods. Hopefully they are universal to all K321 engines. My egine is outwardly different than one Noel has, but Jake has one very similar to this one. Main difference is the governor position if I remember right earlier in this thread.
Another issue is finding someone that will just bore the block to piston specs. Around here if they can't do the whole job and hook you for a 300% markup on the parts, no one is willing to help. Maybe the machinist at work who built the driveshaft may have some ideas.
I wanted to drag the new gravel one more time, but may do it with the MF8E pulling a piece of expanded steel with a chain.
DAC
There's a lot of kits like this one. Some with valves but no connecting rods. Hopefully they are universal to all K321 engines. My egine is outwardly different than one Noel has, but Jake has one very similar to this one. Main difference is the governor position if I remember right earlier in this thread.
for Kohler K321 engine a 14hp rebuild kit complete | eBay
Standard cylinder bore.3.500". INSTRUCTIONS can be downloaded from the Kohler web site on how to rebuild your KOHLER ENGINE. We are the largest supplier of rebuild kits for Kohler K and M series engines in the USA.
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Another issue is finding someone that will just bore the block to piston specs. Around here if they can't do the whole job and hook you for a 300% markup on the parts, no one is willing to help. Maybe the machinist at work who built the driveshaft may have some ideas.
I wanted to drag the new gravel one more time, but may do it with the MF8E pulling a piece of expanded steel with a chain.
DAC
It may be into the new year before I get it together to go on this overhaul. Have had several sign jobs come in here in the last couple of days and need to keep the headstone panels on the front burner too. Too much going on all of a sudden. Would love to retire but not for 588 days yet, not that I'm counting!
This was a fresh piece of cardboard about a week and a half ago. Completely soaked.
DAC
Got the engine pulled. The oil pan is definitely cracked but not where Daniel suspected.
Things look pretty good on the outer of the engine, nowhere near as greased up as I expected. It was hanging crooked but I decided to check the oil before I drained it. Way overfull! Remember when I checked it and nothing showed on the dipstick? I had forgotten to close the shutoff and like someone had said earlier, that plastic chinese pump must leak into the crankcase! It helped me find the leak though.
The crack is visible here if you look close. I started wiping all over the pan I drained probably 3 quarts of thin, gassy smelling "oil"! That left front corner kept getting wet after I would wash it off with brake cleaner. Pulled the pan and cleaned it up.
Going to clean it better, but not sure what to do about it yet. More to come.
DAC
Things look pretty good on the outer of the engine, nowhere near as greased up as I expected. It was hanging crooked but I decided to check the oil before I drained it. Way overfull! Remember when I checked it and nothing showed on the dipstick? I had forgotten to close the shutoff and like someone had said earlier, that plastic chinese pump must leak into the crankcase! It helped me find the leak though.
The crack is visible here if you look close. I started wiping all over the pan I drained probably 3 quarts of thin, gassy smelling "oil"! That left front corner kept getting wet after I would wash it off with brake cleaner. Pulled the pan and cleaned it up.
Going to clean it better, but not sure what to do about it yet. More to come.
DAC
The frame is a mess too. It has been hacked on and cobbled. No wonder that right front motor mount vibrated the nut off and fell out!
Someone said Agco still carries mounts for these, if I remember correctly, So will have ro build a new frame mount and order new rubber mounts.
Even with all that movement the splines on the engine and in the coupler look good.
Inside of the engine looks good too, but I guess it should be washed clean from gas in the oil!
Pretty sure someone had been inside the engine before judging by the blue silicone.
DAC
Someone said Agco still carries mounts for these, if I remember correctly, So will have ro build a new frame mount and order new rubber mounts.
Even with all that movement the splines on the engine and in the coupler look good.
Inside of the engine looks good too, but I guess it should be washed clean from gas in the oil!
Pretty sure someone had been inside the engine before judging by the blue silicone.
DAC
He's talking about the small gears to the right of the crank, opposite the cam. Kohler calls them "balance gears". Over time they have a habit of "gernading" in the block, causing havoc. Some take them out, others leave them in. Biggest thing with them is their bearings and how much end to end play they have.
That oil pan is part # 4719909, used a lot by JD. Here's one on EPay:
Cub Cadet Kohler K Series Deep Aluninum Pan K302 K241 K321 K341 | eBay
<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Cub Cadet Kohler K Series Deep Aluninum Pan K302 K241 K321 K341. Mount hole threads are all good hard to get good pictures of them</p>
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