MF 1450

[Propane1]

Any engine I’ve done I took them out. Never noticed much difference in vibration. When I had my John Deere 14 hp kohler engine apart this summer the grenade gears were very lose. So out they came. If I had of run the engine another winter. I’m sure it would have exploded.
Like JDJake said. Some take them out , some leave them in. Do some research on them Doug. Balance gears is there name. That will help you decide. But don’t put the engine back together with out checking them.

Noel

 

[Propane1]

I would say my John Deere engine that I fixed up over the summer would of had the aluminum base. The one Kenny posted looks like the one my engine. But, hehe, I never noticed it or can’t remember. Hehe.

Noel

 

[SimplyRad]

I have an oil pan from a JD 316. It wouldn't work for a Simplicity. I will get a pic and if it is what you need you can have it for postage.

 

[MFDAC]

I have an oil pan from a JD 316. It wouldn't work for a Simplicity. I will get a pic and if it is what you need you can have it for postage.

Thanks for the comments everyone!

Yes Rad, a picture would be greatly appreciated! The epay one Kenny posted definitely looks right. If yours is the same I'll be glad to buy yours first before the epay one!

I was thinking that this one might need to be welded, but a good replacement sounds like a much better option!

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

I see it still has the grenade gears in it.

Noel

He's talking about the small gears to the right of the crank, opposite the cam. Kohler calls them "balance gears". Over time they have a habit of "gernading" in the block, causing havoc. Some take them out, others leave them in. Biggest thing with them is their bearings and how much end to end play they have.

Thanks for the info on the "grenade gears"! They may have to come out then. I will check them out.

DAC

 

[Propane1]

Ya check them out Doug. Thin shims for end play. I have no idea what the clearance is thou. But it wouldn’t be much. Then the needle bearings wear and you have flop back and forth. Not good. These are out of the John Deere engine.

Noel

 

[MFDAC]

I'm trying to think of a way to put the engine on an automotive engine stand so It can be rotated around. Maybe I will put a couple bolts in the pan to put it back on for something to sit on while I pull the head to determine cylinder wear. don't want to damage that dipper so the pan will protect that. If it's good there I'm probably not going to buy an overhaul kit. Need to research how far to tear the engine down for balance gear removal if they are questionable. I couldn't find a full set of engine mounts but 3 of them look good and I think I found the right size for the rear one that is trashed. Looks like I will have to figure out how to bore a 2" hole in a piece of 3/16 plate for the new RF engine mount plate.

DAC

 

[Propane1]

If I remember right, the crankshaft has to come out to get at those gears. Jumpins, that’s pretty bad, only been 6 months since I had the John Deere engine apart and can’t remember exactly. Hehe. Can’t say for sure on that. I remember reading about getting those gears out, without taking the crank out. Had to rotate crank to slip the gears out. But I can’t remember what I did. I do know, that if you take them out, then put them back in, they have to be lined up with their timing marks like the crank and cam do.
Did you do a compression check before taking it apart.

Noel

 

[KennyP]

If those balance gears wiggle even a little, I would take the out. Have to take the crank out to get to the snap rings that hold them in.

 

[olcowhand]

I might have one of those pans, but not seen in years, and may not be able to find it, but I'll look when I'm out and about.

 

[MFDAC]

Did you do a compression check before taking it apart.

Noel

No, I didn't think about it, Noel. Should have been the first thing I checked.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

Looks like the opinion is to take out the balance gears! Engine will have to come down most all the way to do that so probably need to buy the overhaul kit anyway.

Too cold out in the main shop to work on it tonight, tired after the day job anyway. Winter is here!

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

I might have one of those pans, but not seen in years, and may not be able to find it, but I'll look when I'm out and about.

Don't go out of your way trying to find it Daniel. Still may just end up buying the one Kenny posted. Not a real bad price.

DAC

 

[Propane1]

Looks like the opinion is to take out the balance gears! Engine will have to come down most all the way to do that so probably need to buy the overhaul kit anyway.

Good plan Doug.

Noel

 

[olcowhand]

I've had great service from the cheaper rebuild kits except for the valves. If your OE valves lap out well, reuse them. I've had a couple of the cheap valves burn out as they're not nearly as hardened.

 

[MFDAC]

I've had great service from the cheaper rebuild kits except for the valves. If your OE valves lap out well, reuse them. I've had a couple of the cheap valves burn out as they're not nearly as hardened.

Good advice Daniel, Thank you. I want to hope the original valves will lap well, since the engine ran well!

Got a little done tonight. Put the oil pan back on with 2 bolts to set the engine on the welding table. Didn't do any more tear down yet. Ordered the fuel pump kit from "Then and Now Automotive" They are the only place on the net I found with the valves. Thanks for the info, JDJake!

AC-4S Kohler Fuel Pump Kit | Then and Now Automotive

www.then-now-auto.com

I also ordered some JB Weld high heat epoxy to try to seal up the broken exhaust nipple. Need to quiet this engine down some. It's not the original muffler either so hopefully I can drop the noise a bit. It's supposed to be a fairly decent weekend but It will probably be mostly dedicated to sign work since I've got some backed up right now.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

Did a small amount of disassembly after work tonight. Tried to get the splined hub off the flywheel but no go with the DeWalt impact. Got those allen heads soaking right now with some penetrating spray. I may have to "lock" the engine rotation somehow and use a breaker bar. Pulled the head. Looks good in there, valve margin is good and they aren't sunk into the valve seats. Guides seem to have very little slop. No cylinder ridge, at least with a fingernail and the vertical scores visible in the pictures can't be felt with a fingernail either. I will need to find measurements and then measure what is here to determine the amount of overbore needed. It is stamped "STD" on the piston. Wiggles a little in the bore at tdc and bdc, about the same.

DAC

 

[Propane1]

Jumpins. That looks real good Doug.
Have you wiggled the grenade gears yet. ?

Noel

 

[MFDAC]

Jumpins. That looks real good Doug.
Have you wiggled the grenade gears yet. ?

Noel

No, Noel, I need to lay it over on it's side and pull the pan back off. It was just swinging around hanging off the cherry picker, and hard to see looking up into the bottom.

DAC

 

[KennyP]

You should find what you need in the service manual, Doug. Says it's too large to upload here.