MF 1450

Propane1 said:
After running the John Deere yesterday, cleaning up the snow, first work and load on the engine since I put rings in and took the balance gears out. I didn’t see, feel or hear any difference in the engine operation. Worked the same as before.

Noel
Click to expand...

That's good to know, Noel!

KennyP said:
The service manual is uploaded here:

Kohler K-Series Service Manual

Service manual for the Kohler single cylinder engine.
tractorfanatics.com
Click to expand...

Printed page 8, specifications and tolerances page!

chieffan said:
On those allen head screws, take a punch that will fit down inside the allen socket and smack it good with a heavy hammer a couple times on each one. Lot of times that will break them loose enough to turn out. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I'll give it a shot, Roger!

olcowhand said:
I think by looking at the bore that I'd be tempted to just stay std. A light hone would clear any cylinder marking right up. More than likely your oil control rings are worn more than anything else.
Click to expand...

I hope so, Daniel. Will do some measuring soon.

Thank-you everyone for the advice and info!

DAC
 
Tried to get some measurements of the cylinder bore today, engine still assembled, head removed. All I have to measure with is snap gauges and a 6" caliper. I have a dial indicator too but it's too big to fit in a bore this small.

DSCN3913.JPG

I measured TDC and BDC bore, taper and out of round. Bore and out of round are within specs of the numbers on the tolerance sheet. Taper is .001 more than they want, widest at BDC. I'm on the fence of what to do, but thinking of trying a std. bore overhaul anyway.

DAC
 
The fuel pump kit came in and at first I thought it had to be the wrong one. Then I got the calipers out. Looks to be correct. I had no clue that those check valves were so big in diameter. Anyone have any tips on how to remove the old ones without destroying the housing? I figured they were about as big as the plastic ring in there.

DSCN3916.JPG

DSCN3917.JPG

I know I'm a duma$$! Please remember this is the first tractor I've ever owned with a mechanical pump!

Any help is appreciated!

DAC
 
Wow Doug, never seen a fuel pump that corroded. A few tools I used is (1) a small but strong pick tool, (2) small flat tip screw driver, (3) needle nose vice grips. You can try using the pick tool and flat tip to work around the valve seating area (VERY carefully!). Use the needle nose vice grips to grab the bottom of the one valve and work it free. Another option is to remove the 90 degree fittings and try to push the valves out using the flat tip in the inlet/outlet ports. It's been awhile since I had one apart, but I think there might be little snap rings or keepers holding the valves in place. Also, I think Kohler had instructions on how to rebuild these pumps, I just can't recall where I seen them.
 
JDJake said:
Wow Doug, never seen a fuel pump that corroded. A few tools I used is (1) a small but strong pick tool, (2) small flat tip screw driver, (3) needle nose vice grips. You can try using the pick tool and flat tip to work around the valve seating area (VERY carefully!). Use the needle nose vice grips to grab the bottom of the one valve and work it free. Another option is to remove the 90 degree fittings and try to push the valves out using the flat tip in the inlet/outlet ports. It's been awhile since I had one apart, but I think there might be little snap rings or keepers holding the valves in place. Also, I think Kohler had instructions on how to rebuild these pumps, I just can't recall where I seen them.
Click to expand...
This tractor sat outside in the weather for a very long time, so long the guy I bought it from couldn't remember. No carb or fuel lines so basically the pump was open to the elements, Jake. I was real surprised the engine was free. I've got the tools, so will try to pry them out soon. I don't see any retainer clips but I think the valves may be "dimpled" in.

chieffan said:
Soak it in PB Blaster, or if your not in a bit hurry try white vinegar. Both will eat on the rust and chances are they are not stuck in that awful wight. Good luck.
Click to expand...
I don't have any PB right now, but it's being soaked with "Lawson" ( Lawson bolts) penetrating spray, Roger. Seems like good stuff.

Had to finish up an order of signs for a customer, so no tractor work tonight.

Thanks for the helpful comments!

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I did google K series fuel pump rebuild. Not a single video was old metal body pumps. All were about rebuilding the plastic body ones, and there were only 4 or 5 at the most.

DAC
Click to expand...

That was my luck on You Tube - found everything but what I wanted so quit looking there. I have tried several different penatrants, some home brews and come back to the good old PB Blaster. Have read those "test results" too and they make the results come out the way the $$ flow goes.
 
KennyP said:
I just bought a bottle of the 'Superzilla' rust product. We'll see how that works on stuck choke & throttle cables when it gets here.
Click to expand...
Let us know how that stuff works, Kenny!

chieffan said:
That was my luck on You Tube - found everything but what I wanted so quit looking there. I have tried several different penatrants, some home brews and come back to the good old PB Blaster. Have read those "test results" too and they make the results come out the way the $$ flow goes.
Click to expand...
Once again, dumpster diving comes into play. Every few years the parts man at work throws away cans of various chemicals. I keep an eye out for that. I guess it depends on vendor bids or something. I've grabbed cans of Kroil, Yield, Lawson and Zep penetrants. Seems like all of them did ok, hard to remember. I would think it's about time for him to replenish my inventory!

You can't trust test results or product reviews due to who funds things for sure, Roger!

DAC
 
I was able to get a 90* offset screwdriver into the old valves and they popped out nicely! The new ones do look to be the dame diameter as the old ones, but they are slightly thicker.

Do you guys think bead blasting this pump body will be ok? It is awful crusty.

DAC

DSCN3918.JPG
 
MFDAC said:
Once again, dumpster diving comes into play. Every few years the parts man at work throws away cans of various chemicals. I keep an eye out for that. I guess it depends on vendor bids or something. I've grabbed cans of Kroil, Yield, Lawson and Zep penetrants. Seems like all of them did ok, hard to remember. I would think it's about time for him to replenish my inventory!
Click to expand...

What are you gunna do when you retire Doug. No more dumpster diving. Hehe

Noel
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top