What are you currently working on??
- Thread starter backwoods
- Start date
That battery drain is fairly common any more with all the electronics, etc. Radio draws power all the time for one. Battery cut off switch is the surest and easiest way to solve the battery drain.
The OEM batteries are about the smallest they can put in the vehicle and get it sold.
@SimplyRad , I saw a lot of tornados in your area on the Weather Channel last night. Sure hope all is ok!
My sister has a 20 some year old Toyota, I forget the model. Just remember it's not a Camry. She doesn't drive but once or twice a month. Battery would be near dead every time. She had the charging system and battery checked at a repair shop, all ok. Figured it was parasitic drain from components of the car that require a small amount of power even when the car is not being used. We bought a trickle charger that the lead hangs out from under the hood like a block heater plug. I installed the leads to the battery last spring. The charger stays at home. Unplug and go. She just plugs the charger back in when she gets home. I think we got it at Auto Zone but can't remember for sure. I think all those type of parts stores have similar ones, probably plenty online too. She has had no dead battery problems since.
DAC
Dang Marty, at least the moron could have come back and fessed up after going home to sober up! No DUI then. Maybe the moron got busted anyway later. Hopefully there's some justice out of it somehow. Karma maybe.
DAC
My son was off and said someone came to the door in the middle of the day, but they left before he realized and made it to the door so who knows.
Similar to a battery tender, I have one on the Harley. I have a 78 Plymouth fury 2 door, that I don't drive other than the summer, somehow I can leave that one sit over 6 months and never have to jump or charge the battery in it it cranks right over.
Though I lost my winter storage last year, and I have had to keep it here this past winter, and that means I've had to start it and move it outside every time I've needed to use the lift. So unlike the past 10 years or so it's been started pretty regularly (at least a couple of times a month) this past winter. But when I went to get it out of my mons garage last summer it had sat for a year and a half since it was previously fired up and other than having to pump the pedal a few more times than usual, and crank on it a bit more than I usually do, it fired right up without a jump.i did have to put a battery in it about 3-4 years ago. In warm weather it gets run and driven about 1500 miles a year. I did let it sit that one time as long as I did when gas was $5+ a gallon....
What I heard there was about 6 or 8 tornados that went through here, some north and some south and 3 deaths. Carla's cousin lived in a trailer park; I think, in Lakeview. We didn't even have a high wind.
I would put a battery tender on the Yukon if I didn't have to run an extension cord across the drive.
Yea unfortunately. I've actually considered talking to a lawyer about it, it is directly in front of our house. The thing is, they get a 25' easement fron center of road, this is 35' in my drive. Doubt I would win, but it didn't work this time LOL.Looks as if the arrow sign is well place from getting clobbered then.
It did hit Indian Lake which is an hour or so south of Toledo. My company owner's mother owns a house there, it got spared, but there are pictures of other homes around lake that are completely gone. A trailer park on the lake also got wiped out.
There were also some tornados down by Jcrawlers in Madison Indiana/N.W. Kentucky.
Thanks for the reply, Rad! Glad you and the other guys on here in the area didn't get hit! I've lived in trailer houses all my life. Been lucky so far I guess. Got wiped out by a flash flood 52 years ago though. Not in a flood plain any more.
Having a cord laying across where you have to walk would be a bad idea. Hopefully you can get your setup built soon!
The arrow sign didn't help this time Marty, but I bet it has on many occasions.
DAC
Well today I had to get up onto my metal roof.
I've been happy with since I put it on back in 09 except for the fact that traction walking around up there sucks vs shingles. We had a torrential rain and hail storm here Thursday, and my wife called me at work and told me that she had to put a bucket in front of the dryer as we had a leak. I got home, the sun was shining by then, I scoped it out and really didn't see anything. When I was doing the roof we got rain while I had it stripped bare. That time there was a spot in the bathroom where the drywall disintegrated from the leak. No such issue this time. No evidence of a leak. Went in the attic and saw nothing wet, not the rafters or the wood under the steel roof, the insulation, nothing.
But in that same run between rafters I have the chimney, the electric line to the house and a cleat where the electrical service is anchored to the roof. I see my soil stacks have some caulk delamination around them, I'm gonna have to get up there and redo all of the caulking. I knew this 15 years ago when I put the roof on but didn't know exactly when. I had actually forgotten about it. Today it wasn't as warm as I would have liked, working with fresh caulk, and was quite windy so I just did the electrical entry point and the support cleat for it. I'm gonna have to get back up there and redo everything that goes thru the roof. When I won't get blown down.
I got the most likely problem today based on proximity to where she said it was leaking.
The biggest problem was getting all the old caulking off and not scratching the paint off around where I had to scrape and wire brush the old stuff off. I need to find something to help dissolve silicone based caulking before I get back up there to do the rest. I have the base of the whole house attic fan, the chimney, and 4 plumbing vent stacks yet to do. And I don't want to end up with bare metal roofing around them when I do. Anyone have an idea on how to soften old caulking so I can get it off and spare the paint on the metal roofing?
I've been happy with since I put it on back in 09 except for the fact that traction walking around up there sucks vs shingles. We had a torrential rain and hail storm here Thursday, and my wife called me at work and told me that she had to put a bucket in front of the dryer as we had a leak. I got home, the sun was shining by then, I scoped it out and really didn't see anything. When I was doing the roof we got rain while I had it stripped bare. That time there was a spot in the bathroom where the drywall disintegrated from the leak. No such issue this time. No evidence of a leak. Went in the attic and saw nothing wet, not the rafters or the wood under the steel roof, the insulation, nothing.
But in that same run between rafters I have the chimney, the electric line to the house and a cleat where the electrical service is anchored to the roof. I see my soil stacks have some caulk delamination around them, I'm gonna have to get up there and redo all of the caulking. I knew this 15 years ago when I put the roof on but didn't know exactly when. I had actually forgotten about it. Today it wasn't as warm as I would have liked, working with fresh caulk, and was quite windy so I just did the electrical entry point and the support cleat for it. I'm gonna have to get back up there and redo everything that goes thru the roof. When I won't get blown down.
I got the most likely problem today based on proximity to where she said it was leaking.
The biggest problem was getting all the old caulking off and not scratching the paint off around where I had to scrape and wire brush the old stuff off. I need to find something to help dissolve silicone based caulking before I get back up there to do the rest. I have the base of the whole house attic fan, the chimney, and 4 plumbing vent stacks yet to do. And I don't want to end up with bare metal roofing around them when I do. Anyone have an idea on how to soften old caulking so I can get it off and spare the paint on the metal roofing?
I had a limb blow out of a tree next door and puncture my roof, didn't know it till it started leaking through the bedroom ceiling. Just poked a hole through the shingle and the sheeting. All I have through my roof is the sewer vent as my power is in ground.
I’ve heard guys using WD-40 to help remove silicone. The flexible plastic spreaders you put bondo on with work good as scrapers to protect the metal roof.
Brought home a Wheel Horse 1277 today. Has a k-341 16h.p. Kohler instead of the 12h.p. K-301 it came from the factory with.
1967 with hydrastat transaxle. Someone put Cub Cadet rims/ tires on it.
The speed/direction lever is sloppy and will creep in neutral. I will be replacing bushings and adjusting the linkages.
I will clean it up good and decide how much refurbishing to do on it.
I looked in a box marked Wheel Horse and remembered I had a slot hitch and a sleeve hitch to put on it.
1967 with hydrastat transaxle. Someone put Cub Cadet rims/ tires on it.
The speed/direction lever is sloppy and will creep in neutral. I will be replacing bushings and adjusting the linkages.
I will clean it up good and decide how much refurbishing to do on it.
I looked in a box marked Wheel Horse and remembered I had a slot hitch and a sleeve hitch to put on it.
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